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Technical Flathead valve questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chappy444, Aug 26, 2020.

  1. working on a 59a and have found at least one valve that has some play in the guide. So now I have a few questions.
    1. Can I replace just one or two guides or should I do them all?
    2. If I do them all can I go with the newer style valves and one piece guides? Or should I stick with the old valves and just get new guides and springs?
    3. If I go with new valves assemblies, should I get new lifters? Would new lifters require a new cam? And what about new valves in the old seats?

    Really trying to not break the bank with this engine... everything else seems pretty good with it... looks likenit has been gone through as some point after aluminum timing gears were available..

    Thanks for the insight
    Chappy
     
  2. You can replace one or two guides only. If the rest of the guides, valves, cam, lifters are ok then go with them. If you have lots of money and like everything new, then ........
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    If cost is a problem, I'd think you could replace the bare minimum. Sure you can only replace the broken parts.

    If you do all new valves, you might be better to install new lifters if the old ones are screwed down too much. I've heard too much about the adjusters getting loose if you screw them outward. Pretty sure it's kosher to install new lifters on a used cam (but not the other way).
     
  4. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    i believe Alchemy is making reference to adjustable lifters. you have not said thats what you are dealing with. if still using stock ford lifters, and stock ford mushroom valves, and the rest of the motor seems healthy enough for just this "patch", then certainly you could just replace the needed guides. keep in mind, they are made in pairs, keep them together as a set. if you want to replace them all, then yes, the later 8ba one piece guide is the way to go. much easier to install. got the right tools for flathead valve games? they make a difference. and, you know how to grind stems for correct valve lash?
     

  5. Thank you guys for the response.
    Currently I have the mushroom valve assemblies and non-adjustable lifters.
    I was thinking that if I keep the current valve and lifters I would not need to worry as much about adjusting lash as they should already be ground correctly (i will check of course). I could just replace guides (or guides and springs) It was a running engine recently. If I switch to the newer style valves assemblies I would also need new adjustable lifters. And if i do that how well will the new valves seat? will i need to grind the seats? or just lap them in real good...And of course that line of thinking opens the flood gates of, "well if i am doing all this, its just a few hundred more dollars for a new cam." I am really trying to keep away from that spiral...lol Sadly, a complete rebuild just isn't in the budget for this project.
    As for tools, I have the big pry bar, the C-clamp looking guide removal tool, and the horse shoe clip removal tool
    I am missing the KD #919 valve guide driver downer tool (Valve bushing tool I think its called) so if anyone has one they would be willing to loan or sell please let me know.
    I guess I will go with new guides and springs, button it up and see how it runs
    Anyone know a good source for quality 2 piece guides?
    thanks again
    Chappy
     
  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    since not too many folks use the old two piece guides, they should be easy to find. i would check ebay first, then southside obsolete, or third gen for nos stuff. vanpelts sales also
     
    stillrunners likes this.
  7. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    First you need to establish that you indeed have a problem. There will be some play in the guides, there has to be. How much and how to measure it is the issue.
    A quick search reveals that the maximum clearance for the intake is .003. Exhaust can be .0035, maybe a little more. Do not hold me too this but this is what a search has revealed. P.S. The above is for 1951 8BA, Earlier V8 engines show up to .0045 valve stem clearance intake and exhaust. That can very easily be felt.
    Both measurements above are easily felt.
    You may be OK.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2020
  8. Not an issue going to the one piece guides.....basically what I did back when Stacy had Antique Auto Supply in Arlington.....could go by and get NOS valves - springs - guides - keeper or what every I needed for a valve assembly replacement. Did that one a few motors that just had an issue with one or two sticking from sitting.....what someone said - look on Ebay or one of the other NOS suppliers.
     
  9. Thanks all for the info and recommendations.
    After checking all of the valves I found 3 exhaust and 2 intake that had way more "movement" than their counterparts.
    I found a NOSR set of Sealed Power guides still in the original box and banded as sets along with a set of NOSR springs (also Sealed Power) look to be from the 60's or early 70's.
    So far the old ones are coming out without to much fight... the right tools make a huge difference LOL
    It will be good peace of mind for me to replace them... and give me a chance to do some more cleaning/carbon removal.
    Now I just need to pick up some assembly lube and a gasket set, and get the carbs and dizzy rebuilt, and find a fan assembly, and a crank pully, and....
    Thanks again everyone!!!
    Chappy
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2020
    rusty valley and waxhead like this.

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