Technical Lets build a crate HiPo SBC from the 1960s

I agree Budget he may be building an engine for himself, but using the crate word to me means available to those who want to purchase them from the crate supplier. I guess we all see things and words in our own way. Today crate and stroker are just over used.
Example: if a 400 crank in a 350 block is a “stroker” seems only right that a 350 crank in a 400 block must be a “borer”...

 

I prefer Destroker

 

Thanks all. Im just looking at putting together a nice simple little car with a somewhat limited budget that will most probably be my last hence the desire to run new major components. Engine wise the more complete it is the better for me, hence a crate, its just none of the ones available aesthetically work for me where as late 60s SBCs do. I just want to have all my ducks in a row before reaching out to potential suppliers, one of which has already expressed an interest in this as they see a market for similar engines. My tires (bias 7.50-16 on the rear) will be the limiting factor (ie traction) with a 375hp engine and LSD so no need for a 383 for me

 

These guys are really having a hard time understanding that you're looking at buying a crate motor then putting era correct intake, valve covers and other accessories on it to make it look vintage.
You are still going to need to at least vent one valve cover so the pcv in the oil fill tube will work and vent the engine correctly. I tried using sealed valve covers with only the oil fill tube breather and it did not work very well at all.
Another option would be venting the block at the mechanical fuel pump block off plate, that way you could use the valve covers without vents, you'd have to make sure your engine is mechanical pump ready and use an electric pump.

 

Dart SHP 372 short block, Trick flow double hump heads painted to match block. Mild hydraulic roller cam. Z28 or Edelbrock C4b manifold. Early Vette valve covers. Easy 375 Hp , trouble free and vintage looking. And drivers side dipstick Moon breathers on valve covers with PCV on filler tube

 

Lumpy nailed it.

 

I didn't mean to jump on ya, few beers and away we go, right? Guess I'm just saying/thinking that the cost to rebuild any SBC in Japan, might out weigh things,

All good I hope.

 

While not a fan of crate engines (Id rather do it myself) they are really cheap for what they are. If you could find a block to re-condition you might be ahead (buy a new crank rods and heads). There is the option of buying in Australia if you can find freight back to there. hopefully freight form here is cheaper.

 

The only problem with buying a 327/350 from Australia is all of the ones for sale SEEM to have come out of a monaro.
Just like all 327 come from a Corvette. They are WAY over priced. Also we in Australia pay far too much for engine parts to rebuild sb chevs. I have just recently received my engine rebuild kit from USA for a 350 even with freight it was still 1/4 of the price i would have had to pay for the same parts in AUS

 

There is a 289 block for $A300 in wa, that’s 22900 yen if that was a us$300 block it would be 31809 with cheaper freight from here (guessing on freight). No I wouldn’t buy anything not made here but cams are on par or cheaper than a good US ground cam ( billet custom grinds). Pistons gaskets etc all from OS.

 

I've traveled some distances based on word that a guy had a smallblock or big block or flathead or parts of each .....I've wrote checks for crates, some absolutely non-acceptable for consumption on this forum, I've mixed and matched and it all comes out the same.... It ain't even worth the time thinking about it ,hardly ....stuff a motor in it....make it how you like it.....Tweek it ....change it.....make it so the ground shakes from the thump....offend the populace......cause loathing and outrage from the folks on the street when you skulk on by......with a big smile on yer face

 

Your original idea sounds pretty close to my setup. (other than I'm using a 67 327).
Model A coupe, 7.50/16s.
327 with road draft tube,
edelbrock performer with oil fill. (now I see they make RPM which would maybe be a better choice).
Holley 650 classic style.
1.94 valve original camel humps.
originally running a lunati 262 cam, but changed to a Comp 280H after some issues.
Bored .040
Ram horns.
Pertronix HEI.
Made 1HP per CI on dyno 336HP with the comp cam. (keeping it below 5500 after rebuild).
The Pertronix gave all sorts of trouble on the dyno, timing jumping around, installed new kit (even though the distrib only had 1500miles on the first rebuild. After that it started randomly popping at high RPM, changed the cap and it seemed better.
Once I got it in the car it would pop randomly and was not running smooth.
Changed to a MSD and it was night and day difference.
This thing screams to 7000 really quickly, glad the new distrib has a rev limiter.
It is enough for the bias plies, and will spin them through all the gears.
Wouldn't be the best cam for autos, high gears and vacuum accessories.
I have a ST10 manual and 3.89 gears.
I like this combo all around, highway and in town is great fun.
If I re-dynoed now with the new distributor and some more RPM, I think it would hit that 350 hp mark, it was that big of a difference.

In the end, it cost more than a crate engine I'm sure, but marginally worth it so I don't have to say yes when everyone asks if its a 350.

 

Anyone have a make and part number for a chrome filler tube, sealed cap and screw in PCV?

 

67 corvette 350 horse will get you there. Long Island Corvette Supply

 

......Another option would be venting the block at the mechanical fuel pump block off plate, that way you could use the valve covers without vents, you'd have to make sure your engine is mechanical pump ready and use an electric pump.[/QUOTE]


Now there is a neat idea! Have you done this before???




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If you use an original GM intake with the metal cover in the middle on the underneath side you can put the PCV in the intake an oil can't get to it.. **clic pic**

 

No personal experience with the aftermarket reproductions for the GM oil fill tubes but I have heard for many years that they are a loose fit in the GM aluminum intakes, they may have addressed the issue by now.

 

Here is great 1964 Impala restoration photo album and log. On the second page, the owner shows details of the closed PCV system and how he modified the engine block for the fresh air breather. He built a 383 using a 350 block and dressed it to look like a 1964 327.
Scroll down until you see the engine valley.
http://www.thecairns.com/Impala/page2.html

 

Dang, he drilled a hole right through the wall of China. Shoulda put a 45 * fitting on there and angled the pipe down so any oil that collects inside would run out when shut down.

 

Wouldn't have drilling the rear of the manifold as previously suggested been just as effective?

 

If you are going 372, might as well go 427 inches. Same money, but free HP. You know I have mapped this all out....

https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...-5cc-dome-4125-pistons-scat-crank-rods_92901/

 

Shoot root , all this time I thought you were a baby small block fan Just remember...horsepower costs money, how fast you wanna go?

 

I still love my small journal stuff, but to answer your other question: As fast as possible.

 

Thats my boy

 

It's just a lot harder to make 600 hp with 331 cubes.

 

Oh man that's VERY nice and well priced, its a Rabbit Hole I tell you!

 

Trust me, I have built this thing 38 different ways. Rabbit hole is an understatement.

 

Now there is a neat idea! Have you done this before???




Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[/QUOTE]

No I have not done it personally, but I've seen several photos from the early 60's in drag cars and land speed racers, they use an Offy 45 degree breather with the tall neck it seems like.

 

I think it may be hard to make a HONEST 600 hp 331 anyway without buzzing it very tight, may take a tunnel ram and two Holleys or injection. I know Im gonna regret this post. Lippy

 

Pete are you on a budget? Somehow I thought you were. Lippy