Question: I'm installing a 350 crate and keeping the original radiator, re-cored. The radiator guy called and pointed out that the connections on the radiator and the connections on the SBC are usually two different sizes. Anyone have experience with this? Can I get radiator hoses with different sizes on either end? I would like to keep the original radiator if possible but changing the hose connections along with re-coring it would make the cost astronomical to the point I might be better off with an aftermarket unit with original appearance. What do you guys think/know?
I've always just stretched the hose over the different size outlet. Or cut a piece of appropriate size radiator hose and use it as a spacer to the bigger size.
When I put the 8ba in my '39 p/u the upper radiator hose on the radiator was larger than the thermostat housing. Flex hoses with 2 different diameters are available as are inserts to make up the difference in diameters BUT they were pricey. Others with the same situation use an old bicycle inner tube to wrap the smaller inlet for the larger hose diameter.
Thousands of different radiator hoses with different sizes on ether end, make friends with someone at the parts house and look at all the hoses that are shaped right our could be cut to the right size and start measuring. HRP
Make up a "model" out of plastic pipe for shape and size and take it to the parts house and go through their inventory, in most instances they would rather stand by the cash register than help you dig through inventory If you noted what the vehicle was and possibly a picture some one may have had the same issue and solved it
There are many sizes of these hose reducers. Easier to use than trying to find the correct hose with two size ends.
Normal older Chevy V8 hose sizes are 1-1/2" for the top, and 1-3/4 for the bottom. There are many molded hoses that have different sizes on the ends, and also there are universal corrugated rubber flex hoses that have different sizes on the ends. I find that o'reilly auto parts web page is useful for looking them up, you can select end sizes and see what pops up.
I learned from a old timer years ago to buy a couple of VW collapsible aluminum heater box hoses and use them to mimic the shape of the rubber hoses needed for the top and bottom of the radiator, being aluminum and collapsible they will hold their shape and are great for reference when standing among the hundreds of hoses usually hanging on the wall at the parts house. They easily collapse and can be stored in the box for the next time you need a specialty hose. HRP
NAPA carries all the rad hose reducers you'll ever need.... https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?q=Nty%3D1%26N%3D2500054%2B2605405%2B2806351%26Score%3D0.6&referer=plp&partTypeName=Hose%20Reducer&keywordInput=radiator%20hose%20reducers&scene=partTypesScene2&fullyQualified=true I use them on the roadster and have never had an issue.
I have had both radiators for the current builds built to match my ins and outs on the motor. I mean as long as you're at it, do it right?
It always helps if you tell us what year and model of car we are working on so we don't have to do wild ass guessing. In this case I think it is 49/52 Chevy car and the simple but ugly way is flex hose with different size ends. My 48 had (and still has) one of those two size flex hoses on it with the 250 and a stock radiator . The cleaner way is to do as Hrp suggested, and find a hose the right size for the engine - 1-1/2 ID that has the right shape to reach the radiator inlet (cut to fit deal) and get one of the sleeves that Casual Six showed. Those even come in the box with some late model fit more models radiators now. Had one come in the box with the radiator I put in the 2K Cad Deville I had. Remember that that radiator is low pressure - 4 or so pound cap and you have to leave plenty of room in the tank for expansion.
Crap! You're right, of course. I thought I mentioned, 1950 Fleetline Deluxe. Talked with my radiator guy this morning and he has adapters that he will include with the re-core. In the meantime I will go looking for variable end size hoses. Thanks for all the comments, very helpful and educational and I appreciate it.
If you’re building a custom radiator, why would you intentionally use an adapter to make it fit? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Is re-coring my original the same as building a custom radiator? It is a fair bit more expensive to have him remove the nipples, cut new holes and braze new nipples on and the cost is already going to be high. From the comments here I am pretty certain I'll be able to find hoses that fit. If not, the adapters will be fine.
Re coring your original radiator is better then getting a cheap or even a good aluminum radiator in my book. If it has a large flat sided top tank you might have to keep the pressure down. Go to the Gates or Goodyear website and download or view their illustrated catalog, find the length, curvature, hose end sizes you need and then type that number into google if you need a picture of the real part.
This is what I was getting at in my earlier post. On my blown flathead I gave Brassworks the diameter and the spacing of the inlets and outlets so they were all in the right place for easy hose connections without adapters and jogging all about. Same on the Hemi. As long as you are building the radiator why plan on using adapters? That is like designing a house and putting the outlet on one wall even though the TV is going on the other wall but figuring I could use an extension cord and be fine.
I put a Walker radiator in a customers 50 Chevy a few years back and used a Dayco 70885 on top, 1 1/2 both ends. On the bottom I used a Dayco 71598, 1 3/4 on one end, 1 13/16 on the other, sorry don't know which was which. There's a few variations in bottom size depending on which water pump is used. I'd assume the Walker probably has bigger outlets than the original.
Have you actually checked on having a radiator recored in the last ten years? There is only one shop within 50 miles that will even do it and then it is more than what most high quality radiators cost new outside of the super high priced Walkers. The local shop that is the last one in this area to recore radiators doesn't want to deal with car or pickup radiators as they are overly busy with truck and heavy equipment radiators. They will modify one for a hot rod if you get hold of the right person and pay a premium at that.
Dayco has a good online catalog with pictures. I’ve found buying Dayco hose from Rock Auto to be economical enough to purchase several of the closest shaped hose needed.
Yes, had the Studebaker re cored about 4yrs ago and it was about $375. The close radiator shop closed down, but I found another one about 30 min away.....I'll ask them about prices when I pick up my '41 radiator. All that aside I still stand by my original quote.
FYI: A little father than 30 minutes from south county especially with SoCal traffic but Fontana radiator is still a full service radiator shop. They just put a new core in the heater for my '54 Ranch Wagon and they have repaired and changed outlets on several flathead radiators for me in the past. Good guys to deal with.
Here in my area there is a shop called Greenwood Radiator that does excellent work and is handling the rebuild of mine. I know it would have been cheaper to buy aftermarket, but this is the original piece for the car and that matters a little bit. I'm not sure why given all the other changes... :-/. The car is going to be driven pretty low stress and if it turns out to be a problem I can change the hose connectors later.
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