After much pondering I decided that while I probably don't NEED this I just feel better that it's there - a few extra bits and pieces to protect the bits and pieces. After much contemplation about how to proceed - whether or not to support the housing during the process I decided that I would weld this on with the housing free to move - not fixtured. Instead the idea was to fit the braces tight and then keep the welds small - use a bunch of tacks and then keep the overall heat in the housing down to a bare minimum. I did this with 1/2" long beads and skipped around maybe doing 4 or 5 of them per side and after doing 2 sides I let it cool before starting over. The hardest part was cutting and grinding the braces to fit the housing pretty close - the $6 contour gage was invaluable for this!! Before and afterwards I put a straight edge on the braces and they are straight as an arrow so I think I did ok. I still need to align & final weld the housing ends, but that will be done using a narrowing jig to ensure the ends are perfectly square and centered. BTW - I was kinda anal when prepping this - I blasted the housing where the brace would weld on and I also blasted the mill scale off the tubing where the welds would be then I took a small sandign disc and went over all those areas again. Getting everything super clean made the welding that much easier. I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my origional post on this - where I was contemplating whether to go square or round or even if I needed it at all. It's a big help to have a sounding board for stuff like this. Much appreciated.
Looks good man. That's the way to go. I'd bet you'll find it didn't even move after the welding. I'd also bet the fear in the "jewel bag" is also gone
Thanks. That's with one eye closed I'd like to think I'd be better IF I had some depth perception..... but then again I always thought I'd be happier with a zillion dollars too. So far I'm doing OK without both of those.
Haven't used any jig yet for this rear. I did the bracing without one. I did make a jig for the ends, but haven't used it yet because I just found out that my ground bar is warped by a few thousandths. Here's a pic of the pieces I made for my jig - they are dual purpose - to be used for narrowing the axle as well as aligning the rear in the car. The piece on the lower left will bolt onto the 3rd member (pinion mount) and then aloow you to put a bar into the main caps of the motor - as well as stick a laser in it. That same piece will also mount an end flange so you can weld it in place. The bar has two spacers I made that clamps into the main caps of your 3rd member. Slide the bar in place and then slide that big piece on with the flange bolted to it. But I may have to wait to find out if this will even work - since my bar is warped I may use a buddy's jig (found out he had one when I was nearly finished machining mine ) - I am getting impatient. I priced a 2" piece of Hardchrome TGP - 4ft will be about $150 - ouch. May be time to call in a solid. I have other rears to do so I suspect it won't be long till I get mine finished. A fellow HAMBer previously cautioned how NOT to store a bar and mentioned the right way was to store it was by hanging it up - I wish I heard that advice about 10 months ago! My bar was leaning against the wall - (barely) and THAT was enough to warp it - I never would have guessed that. Live and learn!!
It's DONE!! Finally... I gotta say I think it looks pretty good in there. Now if Strange can just send my axles out I'll have all the pieces for the rear!! Whoopieee!!
but haven't used it yet because I just found out that my ground bar is warped by a few thousandths. I priced a 2" piece of Hardchrome TGP - 4ft will be about $150 - ouch. Is ground and polished chrome plated really necessary? I had just planned on od ground cold rolled or maybe not even ground depending on what I could find. I thought chrome plating was just for high wear items (ie ways and spindles etc.) Also are you sure "a few thousandths" over 48" is unacceptable? Are you just running an indicator down it's length between centers ? I hope this sounds right, cause I'm not trying to question you, just trying to ask questions and learn. Thanks for the pic. I got a lincoln 9" (or 9 & 3/8) for free, but I'll need to narrow it. The car looks cool too. Thanks again. Ryan
When I saw your first set of photos, I thought, "That's overkill." I was previously ignorant about what you are building, so I didn't know the application. Then I noticed how narrow the rear was, so when I saw it installed in the car, it then made sense. It looks like you'll be sitting right on that rearend, so I don't blame you for wanting to keep spinning shards from exiting the rear at high speeds. Nice job, and smart thinking.
What? Ya wanna protect yer nads? POOSAY!!!! Hehehe....Just kidding. I'd do that, too if MY balls were riding on a pumpkin...
Nope! chrome plated is not necessary - for sure (but it does prevent rust as would proper storage) As for having it ground - YES - in my opinion you would want no less. YES, it's a problem on mine for certain. I installed my bar and spun it - the end was running out by roughly .080" - too much for me. It wasn't alot of warpage on the bar but it added up quickly over the distance. NO problem - I am learning all this as I go and admit I am kinda anal. My experience has taught me that when in doubt make it as good as you can - then if your a little "off" it usually doesn't matter. But when you set the bar low from the get go and then add in some error you are often left with something less than useable. Feel free to question anything I post - I don't take offense and don't profess to be be any sort of expert. I have opinions & am glad to share them - for whatever they're worth (which is argueable). Free is always good!!!!!! If I can narrow one - anyone can - that was part of the reason for my post.
Thanks for taking the time to elaborate . . . 80 is a little more than I was guessing . . . and I agree on trying to overshoot the target that way when I come up short I still make it . . . Thanks again.
Yeah I can't tell you how shocked I was when I spun it. Afterwards I put it on my granite and you could see just a little daylight - hard to believe that caused so much error at the end but it did. In the spirit of overkill or just plain cheapness (??) here's my fill plug - made tonight from some scrap stainless I had.
cheapness my ass, that turned out cool, and when someone who knows what it took to make it spots it, they'll appreciate your hard work.
Thanks! I picked up the contour gage at Home Depot. And after using it I wonder how I got by so long without one! Definitely a must have item in my opinion.
Have you considered making shielding plate also ? To truly stop any shrapnel from the family jewels..........If the room is their? It could be welded up to contour you and the housing..............The back brace looks great and really is a no brainer to have on a well powered vehicle, but the brace along with a well fitting plate would be the over kill that I plan to do one day when I build mine.........That chassis would look kool Hammertoned !!!....Littleman
I thought about that extra plate and decided against it. If I was running pieces parts in there (side gears,pins, clutches and such maybe I would) but with the spool, Strange "N" case, bigger bearings, Strange axles, 4 bearing pinion support I think I am pretty overkill already. Remember this ain't no fueler!!!!!
The Jalopy Journal
