Projects 1949 Buick Sedanette Mild Custom Build

I'm guilty of that with Crocs. I can hardly wait until one of them melts to my foot.

 

Well, I got the first iteration of the hood hinge mocked up. It looks good bit after assembling everything, I am going to have to move the hinge point forward 2" so that it doesn't hit the grill. Oh well, at least I have a design and I know it will work.

Here are the parts I'm working with. 128 bucks from Pull A Part. Deal!

 

that right there would keep me awake at night ......lots of angles and engineering thought required. Can't wait to see how all this comes together

 

I'm sure you will pull this off and it will work great...... but I still like the fact that you can pull two knobs and remove the stock side opening hood to work on the engine. That is part of the cool of these old Buicks.

 

If anybody can do I'm sure you can.

 

I'm like BJR. I like to be able to remove the hood easily and quickly and always thought the design of the Buick latches was ahead of it's time. But, I'm really looking forward to watching your progress on this one.

 

I tried really hard to make the OE hinges work without rubbing but just could never get them to where they worked right. This BMW setup is going to be really neat. Give me another day or two and I will post pictures.

 

Patiently waiting........

 

Done! I just need to finish welding up the brackets. It works slick as snot on a doorknob! I will post some tips on do's and don'ts.

 

good work Rock

 

1. Find a late 80's to mid 90's BMW 5 or 7 series and remove all parts associated with the hood, including the hood. 128 bucks at my Pull A Part.
2. First order of business is to attach the front hinge assembly to solid structure in the front of the car. Fortunately for me, I had reinforced my core support and the hinge mechanism was the same width as my core support, so I fabricated some angle brackets and mounted directly to the core support. Mount this as far forward as you can get away with so that your hood won't touch your grill when it is in the raised position. Make slots to allow for up and down and back and forth adjustment.
3. Fabricate a crossmember for the front of the hood to attach to the hinge mechanism. This has to be tacked in place with the hood closed and positioned according to your hinge. You are now done with the easy part.
4. Mounting the rollers and receivers turned out to be a real challenge. First, they must be mounted parallel the the car's center line in order for them to work. You will have to figure that out for yourself. I had my engine out and could get in the engine bay to do a lot of this work and examine problem areas. The other critical part of this is getting enough slope on the receivers so that the hood begins to rise quickly. I tacked and cut 3 sets before I got them right. Mount these as far rearward as possible because the hood first raises in the front and it pivots on these rollers in the receivers, so the rear of the hood goes down and moves forward a half inch or so before it begins to rise. A wedge shaped hood like mine makes this a bigger deal because it is widest at the rear and moves forward before it rises. Fortunately, the sides are also tapered in at the bottom.
5. Next mounting the hood struts was very tight in my car. I had to fight for every 1/8" I could get to get the mechanisms to fold up correctly without binding. These also have to be mounted parallel to the center line of the car. I tacked and checked them in several positions before I got them right. The hood is standing up far enough that it does not require a lot of force to hold them up. I wouldn't leave it up on a windy day, however.
6. The hood latch is an easy mechanism to mount and clicks closed with a precise sound. I now have to get a special cable made to operate it and I will have an access panel from the underneath to access the lock for when it eventually fails.

That's pretty much it. It works great and I'm glad I did it.

 

Well that is a slick modification for sure! I have a '47 Sper Sedanette and a convertible. I'll restore the convertible but this idea could end up on my sedanatte if I ever get to it. Nice to see the dreaded Harbor Frieght planishing hammer in the background!

 

Man you do great work at lightning speed.

 

^^^^^I agree with that. Looks well engineered. Bet you are glad that the engine was not in place

 

Thanks, Guys. I don't think I could have done it with the engine in. That's why I took it out to start with. It could be done, I guess but it would take a lot longer.

Loudbang, when I get on something like this, I'm usually a man on a mission. The problem solving and the thinking causes some early morning awakening, if you know what I mean.

 

Impressive!

 

Glad you did this. Years ago a mate of mine was investigating the BMW mech for his F100 hood.

 

For sure after a restless night rolling back and forth while your mind picks and chooses ideas.

 

Saying again, you got some mad fabrication skills. Looks great. Snowman

 

Continue to be really impressed. Engine access looks like it will be great.

 

I will try to post a video of the operation. Still pictures don't quite cover it.

 

As much as the side hinge setup looks cool, it is a PITA when you are working under the hood. My 48 still has it, if I need a reminder.

This also cleans up the engine compartment quite a bit.

 

Well you pulled it off in great style. That should fix your opening and closing without damage to the paint problem.

 

So how easy or hard is it to remove the hood now?

 

To remove the hood, remove 4 bolts. Two people required. It would be easiest to have 3 for hood replacement. I'm not planning to have to do that very many times.

 

Richard is working on the steering wheel!


I'm busy blowing things apart, putting up parts, welding and grinding things that were just tacked and getting it ready for Steve, my paint and body guy. It will likely be a month before he can get it in his shop. I still have to paint and undercoat the fenders, which I have put off until last. Did I mention that I hate to paint? Ugh!

 

I'm welding and grinding mostly. Finishing up things that were just tacked in and tweaking gaps and fit. I took some parts to the sandblaster this week and the front splash pan I bought turned out to have termite infestation. Rather than try to repair it, I decided to make a new one that is 2 pc and splits in the middle. This way, I can mount the fenders and install the splash pan, grill and bumpers after I've installed the engine.

I'm really happy with how it turned out. The OE pan has all the ribs concave, so water and dirt just collects in them. I put my beads in so that they would stiffen but shed water.

 

better re-engineering!

 

Awesome thread! I linked to it after your comment on my "Poly Begets a Hemi". So many similarities to my situation like, flip-flops and making scrap. I especially like your repurposing of brackets and bracings, and the cardboard mock-ups of pieces and parts to establish the geometry of a linkage system.
Man, the Buford is huge!!!!! I'm now "subscribed"!