Hi All, Anyone here stuck a small block in the 49-54 chev car? As mentioned in other posts, mine is getting a 350 with T5 and S10 rear. I am not really set up to be able to roll the engine into the bay to figure out motor mount locations, so hoping anyone here who has done this can send pics of their motor mount set up. At present I have a set of Transdapt motor mounts that are supposed to bolt up to the frame with minimal fab work, but I'm not so sure they are going to work out, so, looking for: 1) Recommendations for quality, functional motor mounts 2) Picks of motor mount installations in 49-54 engine bay to sort of get an idea. 3) Voice(s) of experience for pitfalls and things to look out for or make sure of. 4) do I have to trim the firewall support ridges for fitment? Thanks for any help, pics below.
Lots of info out there and on the HAMB on what to do/not to do, here's an old HAMB thread. If you search threads there are multiple others with information on pitfalls etc. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/0203sc-eight/
A saddle mount would give you flexibility in your mounting location https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-1994-Small-Block-Chevy-Engine-Mount,6725.html You can trim those brackets completely. You will loose 2 body mount spots but the are another 8 or so to carry the load I have pictures of the 51 Chevy fleet line we did ....but...we used an S10 clip and did a 10 inch engine setback and an 11 inch firewall setback
I have done this swap in a '37, '40 and '46 Chevy. The '49 to '54 cars share almost the same exact space. I have always used the saddle mounts shown above, and they work great. I have never had to cut the firewall. Plenty of room and good distributor clearances, even if you use an HEI dist. If you are doing fenderwell headers, check out Patriot Brand, listed at Summit. Here is a picture of the '46 which has been sold since. Bob
Thanks, I actually already came across the superchevy article. It's a start but they didn't go into how they determined the location for the mounts. Looking at the measurements of the motor and where the mounts I have seem to fit, the water pump ends up a couple inches through the radiator. What I'm looking for, I suppose, is how to determine where exactly on the frame to locate the front mounts. Or, do I start with the trans mount (S10 T5 from HRW) and work my way forward? As I mentioned, the work space for the car does not really work for rolling a cherry picker in and out to test fit multiple times. If anyone who has done the swap on a 49-54 with stock crossmember can send picks of the motor mounts showing the location on the frame, that would be really helpful.
Walton Fabrication makes what you need great products and easy install. Will answer all your questions.
I would start with the trans and let it dictate where the motor mounts need to be. My 51 Chevy used chassis engineering mounts that bolted to the frame and used biscuit mounts. yes you need to trim the firewall mounts but you DO NOT have to cut the whole thing off. I did mine by trimming the portion that sticks out forward on the firewall off and then welding steel rod to it the remaining portion to give it a little stiffness again. Worked very well and looked like it was supposed to be that way. For the exhaust manifolds I used a 92 Camaro drivers side manifold to clear the steering. Worked great, the pass side I used a ram horn. Here are some pics that may help. One has the motor mounts attaches to the frame you might be able to tell where they need to go from that. I’d measure for you but the car is in New Zealand now.
You can probably buy them though the local O'Reilly's but this shows the good photo. Transdapt 4196 mount kit is bolt in. https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-Performance-4196-Mount-Kit/dp/B000CQ482I Everyone of those swaps I have been around has had some trimming on the frame to firewall braces and the steering tends to get in the way of exhaust. Transdapt 4196 instructions = https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/TRD-4196.pdf For you this setup may be a serous headache saver.
Jason, thanks for the pics, that's about perfect. Mr 48, I actually have a set of the transdapt mounts. They don't exactly fit down over the frame, a little tight. Also, they are supposed to work with existing holes, or I have to drill holes ones I get them placed correctly?
There are no on holes on the frame. They are supposed to be a tight fit. I know it will screw up your paint but can move them with a drift punch and a hammer. The last one I did used an old Hurst front mount. We were able to do it without cutting the fire wall support. Made everything fit including a short water pump and stock radiator. I like them with about 2/3’s of the support cut off and seal welded back up just to above where the valve covers go. Used an aluminum bell housing and a Muncie 4-speed and 90% of the stock clutch linkage.
The Trans Adapt look ALOT like the Chassis Enginering Mounts I used 12 years ago to drop a 350 into our 50 Chevy Ute, we also used the Trans Mount and all went well, used the stock springs to hang a 10 bolt rear end. Five years after I stuffed in a Jag front suspension and the motor hung there while I screwed up the welding of the Jag. Later got THAT fixed, added 2 inch drop blocks in the rear, adjusted the pinon angle, air shocks cause we tow with it and its a great driver. When we put it into rotation
Don't assume that premade trans and engine mounts will mount your engine/trans correctly. They probably can get you there but might need a little adjusting to get it right. First thing is getting the rear end in place and the car sitting at the angle its going to sit when its done. Then you can set your pinion angle. Next you need to make a trans mount. Usually just something disposable for initial location. Since you have a trans mount, I would try it and see if everything clears. The initial mounting of the trans is to see if the shifter linkage clears, the tunnel clears and it gives you the proper driveline angle to work with the rear end. When doing this the engine and transmission are assembled and installed and the trans is then bolted to the crossmember. This serves as a pivot point and will let you move the engine in all 3 directions to properly locate it. Rather than try to wedge things in place to locate the engine, I like to put a cherry picker in from the side rather than the front. You use a Engine tilter (Harbor Freight) and attach it sideways too. This allows you to push the cherry picker side to side to center the engine. Pumping the hoist allows you to raise/lower the engine to achieve the right mounting angle to coincide with the rear end. Cranking the engine tilter will allow you to level the valve covers side to side. So all three planes are controllable. At this point I like to make a cradle type bracket to support the engine solidly on location. I put a bar across the front of the engine bolted to the heads by the accessory mounting holes. Then I weld a leg on each side from the bracket to the frame. The engine is now positioned EXACTLY where you want it. Then I build mounts for each side. You may be able to simply use the mounts you have or modify them slightly to make them work.......but the engine doesn't move around on you as you proceed. Here are some pictures to clarify what I just wrote. So again, the basic idea: The temporary trans mount locates the trans on the centerline with the car. The engine/trans can pivot from this point. You can raise/lower/relocate it if you need to later on. Thats why I use a crappy temp support. Then you can move the engine in all 3 planes to get the best location by using a cherry picker sideways (or an overhead crane if you are lucky).
The last 54 I did used the Walton engine mounts and cross member. Trimmed the firewall ribs. Short water pump. Chevelle exhaust manifolds. Auto trans. Their firewall mount master cylinder and swinging pedal. Sweet set up. Used an eBay aluminum radiator and cooling performance shroud. Everything fit like a glove.
Don't get hung up on having the engine centered. If it fits better one inch to the right, as long as the trans mount is one inch to the right, it's all cool. More steering box room, more steering column room, no down side.
When I was building my 50 delivery, I ordered some mount brackets form one of the popular vendors [don't remember who] and after 3 long weeks they arrived.....completely wrong! I was so pissed I cut down the 216 mount brackets , welded a tube into them and used the early 70s pickup motor mounts with the two ears. Worked great! Sorry, no photos of the mounts.
I agree. The point is that you start with the center of vehicle location and see where there is any interference.......often an exhaust manifold. Then decide whether moving the engine off center will allieviate the problem or whether you need different manifolds or headers. If you want to move off center, just push the cherry picker in that direction and move the mounting holes for the transmission the same distance. You also may find (may not) that you want to raise or lower the whole engine/trans assembly. Instead of sideways. The temp trans mount and the cherry picker from the side let's you find the optimum location before welding anything.
Thanks guys, all great advice and everyone seems to be on about the same page. Shift linkage is not an issue, the T5 is a top loader. It looks like my plan will be: 1) Finish front suspension and steering install 2) Hang the new rear end on the stock leafs (I plan to keep everything stock height. I like how it looks there) 3) Install the HRW T5 transmission mount. It fit's in a pretty specific place. 4) Mate the engin/bellhousing/trans 5) Pull the car out of the space it's in up to the garage space where I can actually roll the cherry picker around and fit everything in place and see where it lands. Holes in that plan?
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