Projects 56 Chevy 210 Hardtop Build

I just can't believe the case is torn up as bad as it is. Any idea what could cause on to tear up that bad while using a trans crossmember? I guess I should point out that the trans didn't break during a launch, but rather a strong shift into 4th gear. I wouldn't have been as surprised by an internal failure but this has me puzzled.

On another note, just to get the car back rolling I have a Saginaw 4 speed out of a 75 Vega that I could throw in until I get something better. I know that one will take nowhere close to the abuse of the Muncie, but it would at least allow me to drive the car again. Will my Hurst 4 speed linkage that worked on the Muncie work for the Saginaw also? I know I'll have to tap the holes for a tailhousing shifter mount but they are there.

 

Shift linkage will be different on the saginaw, the mass failure may have been the 3-4 shift may have not released 3rd gear before 4th was applied.

 

I suppose that would do it, but how can it happen? I thought they shared the same shift fork?

 

True, engaged keyboard before brain.

 

You win bragging rights for snapping off all 4 ears at one time. That's some carnage. Time for an Autogear Super 22.

 

It'll be a long while before I can afford one of those.

 

Sorry the Muncie is torn up. If I hadn't liquidated my parts pile it would be yours. That Saginaw has a following, it would get you down the road. Then you may like its lower 1st gear. Do you plan to fix the wounded one?

 

Down the road perhaps. I've looked up the Autogear Supercase alone and they're not terribly expensive. However if their M23 is really still $2400 then I think I'll be having one of those. I gotta figure out what to sell to get one though!

 

Some Muncies in the classifieds. Also some Doug Nash 5 speeds. Ads are older, but ya' never know !

Had one behind a 366, 2.05 angle plug, 13:1 small block with a 12 bolt 3.08:1 rear. It was bitchin'.

 

Doug Nash 5 speed would be neat...but I think I'm going to stick to the good old 4.

 

Busting the ears off of Muncie's, and to a lesser degree, on B-W T-10's (aluminum cased ones) was fairly common on Tri-Five drag cars. Can't say I've seen the extension housing carnage you did however. The Hurst shifter "tower" will bolt onto the Saginaw 4 speed with the correct mount; you'll need different rods (some of them may also work), and the levers may also work. Just try it and see. The Saginaw's used in Vega's/Monza's/etc cars, with the 3.11 or 3.50 first gear ratio transmissions, used NARROWER gears, and were therefore weaker. Just don't get carried away!!! I saw Larry yesterday, he's the friend I got your first glass nose from, was selling his TWO, B-W Super T-10 4-speeds, with 2.64 gear ratios, for fairly good prices ($650.00 each, WITH Hurst shifters); and they're gone now. I have one behind my "spare" 327, my 333 CID, Half Devil, engine; same engine that was in my FED 36 years ago.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Dang! Sounds like I missed out on a heck of a deal. My Dad has plenty of similar stories from when he was my age driving his 57 a lot more frequently. One in particular was about how the shifter caught the bench seat to keep the transmission from hitting the road. He didn't use to run a crossmember. I'm sure glad I chose to or else mine would have done just the same, minus the bench seat to save my skin.

Anyhow, I've got enough shifter rods around that I'm sure I can piece something together that will work. I'm not entirely thrilled about the Saginaw but something is better than nothing and it'll keep me driving for a short while until I find a beefier 4 speed. Dad's got a Tex Racing 101A Magnesium transmission in his 57 now, sure wish I had that thing to slap in there instead.

 

Late last night I managed to get my hurst shifter mounted up to my replacement transmission. It took a bit of work with a dremel to make the mounting plate work with the speedo cable provision being on the drivers side on the Saginaw. Had to basically cut out the bottom left bolt hole on the plate to make it work. It's not a hole that was used on my muncie either so I didn't feel bad about cutting it.

Turns out the muncie 3-4 linkage rod works fine, but for the 1-2 I had to modify an old rod I had laying around. So now, I've got the ability to select all foward gears, but not yet reverse. I have seen guys run separate levers for reverse but to me that seems like youd be asking for it.