Technical ***August 2020 Banger Meet Thread - More of the Same***

ive tried that .... very loud ! if you move the exhaust behind driver , it will be better in the cab .
these lil 4 bangers are loud un muffled

 

Thanks. That sounds like to route to take.

 

Thanks. Will either remove the baffles from my muffler or install a flow through resonator.

 

Hey Steve,
You dont have to cut your muffler apart.
Many years ago i pondered same as you re muffler.
My remedy .... put a looong 5/8” drill in drill motor. From both ends of muffler, drill as much as you like.
Good results IMO. Guys looked at the stock muffler and ask.... how did you get it to sound like that !
Choices are good, eh !

 

"Remembered to install spring and plunger for the camshaft"
I am in the process of putting my A motor back together. I took it apart last year and was careful to clean, label, and bag all the parts (my first banger) and I do not remember a spring or plunger behind the timing cover, am I missing something?
Note: I did not pull out cam or crank gears.
Man, I hope I didn't mess up. . . .

 

I have a 30 Murray Body Fordor but mine has a whole lot more "patina" than yours does. LOL. Thanks for the inspiration. I'd love to build an engine just about like that. Very nice!

 

Boring pic, but a box of dreams.
Crate contains 2 Model A cranks, 1 Model T block, Stipe "Laruel-Roof" Camshaft, a set of A rods, and some misc pieces. All on it's way to Tulsa Oklahoma to become one, and a spare crank for the shelf. Pistons aren't done yet, Ross Pistons is working on those, custom 7.5 : 1 compression. Shes gonna be runner!

 

On the inside of that little round "bump" (center of timing cover) there should be a little spring and plunger.
I bought a new spring and plunger from Snyder since mine were missing.

 

Hi guys, been doing some research on Banger builds and need some help. They say counter weights to crank stop vibration but does it add HP? higher RPM? Have heard milling A crank down to look like T crank? is this weight saving to spin quicker? next big question, lightened flywheel adds faster RPM but will this add HP? to tie in with first question counter weights on crank defeat loss of weight removed from flywheel? yes i know weight of flywheel on bearings no good from flex to crank so counter weighted crank evens the load across all bearings? cheers for the help guys. and yes im chasing HP and it cost $$$$$$

 

Counterweights don't add horsepower - they just help keep it inside for longer.

 

The shadows make the holes look bigger- they were punched in maybe 1/8"...small end had six 1/4" holes. Loud as these things are with a straight pipe I was surprised it wasn't a lot louder. Rewarding little project for sure...

 

I do have a laycock overdrive for it, but its probably going to be a while before that makes its way in

Thanks, my sedan used to be my grandfathers its un restored, i just wanted to make it a good driver,this engine doesn't have a whole lot of money into it mainly alot of time and elbow grease but well worth the effort

 

Adding fuel and compression raises horsepower on a stock engine.A stock model a crankshaft and flywheel will provide good service if properly maintained.Your questions pertain to torsional vibration,a flaw (if you want to call it that) in design,the harmonic imbalance of a four cylinder engine causes the crankshaft to vibrate like a tuning fork.If you plan on pumping the horsepower way up and driving it cross country at sustained freeway speeds it can be an issue..around town bar hopper not so much.

 

I went over to see Ricky at Rayco Machine this morning. He said "yes, you definitely need that spring and plunger. If not your cam will move out and break stuff" of course he had these in stock. Ricky is straight out with work now because he does Babbitt work on anything you bring him. He took the time to answer my stupid questions and locate the parts I needed in his vast collection of goodies. Thanks Rayco

 

I would ask you intention of this build, do you plan to drive it daily or just weekends.
What you are asking about, lightening the "A" crank was done back in the racing circles.
The cranks were changed out regularly, like every week or two of racing. Honestly, it is the wrong direction to look for power.
My buddy, Jim Brierley has a book out that goes over the "A"/"B" motor pretty thoroughly.
Your questions will be answered and you will have an idea what the cost is.

Start looking in swap meets for HC head, larger carburetor and manifold and a centrifugal advance distributor.
All of these can be had fairly inexpensively, you will need to look at them closely, caveat emptor.
There are reproduction parts available, some better than others, as your budget allows.

Good luck, post back here, there are a bunch of good guys with knowledge, John

 

Valves and guides are in, and I followed Jim Brierley's advice and did a preliminary setting of valve clearance without the valve springs in place.
All good I think so on to the springs and retainers next, and get that dirt out of my cylinders

 

I threw that spring away.cut and fit a slug inside the plunger,then drill and tapped that 'tit' to make it a thrust button instead of a cam plunger

 

The thrust button is so pase'
How about a thrust pump?

 

It renders wood sir...to an old ham and egger like me

 

Does anyone here have any experience running con rod and main bearing nuts other than castellated nuts and split pins?

 

my rods are self locking , but mains are still using castle / pins

 

High temp high quality Nyloks on the rods,tall grade 8 phosphate coated nuts with locktite on the mains..

 

You still have the parts numbers, and source? I am at that point myself.

 

http://www.usfastener.com/insertlocknut.html
Had a good surplus fastener supply in Sacramento (had,he just retired) where I got both.The nylock's are mil spec high temp,to 350 degrees.The compound doesn't degrade slowly..I figure if my oil temp gets close to that high I'm in trouble anyway,aside from them being torqued.The main brg nuts are common..

 

beautiful motor . john your a wizard

 

Valve springs are in, as is the drive mechanism for the distributor and oil pump.
Looking more and more like an engine.

The threaded hole that is seen in the center of the block (to the left of the fuel pump mount), what is it for?
Oil pressure sender?

 

i would think so ............

 

Why does the 2nd spring from the left look like it is bent in a curve?