Projects DRAG SNAKE "Vintage Terror!"

Last night I took some really good measurements and then marked and cut the carpet in to correct sizes. I was rolling them and laying them on the trunk of the car when I finally saw how good they looked with the rest of the colors. Kind of got me motivated to get them in place.


This morning I carefully cut and reinforced a pattern out of posterboard. I checked it several times making edits and then I traced it on the back of the carpet and cut it out.


Zoe spent some time trimming the edges to make sure we don't any pulls etc. and then I dropped it in place for a test fit.


Like a glove baby.


Then I trimmed the transmission tunel side piece and experimented with a do it yourself leather carpet binding kit. It is pretty cool stuff.


You basically cut the carpet, peel the adheasive strip and stick it to the back of the carpet with only the stitched top area showing on the carpet side.

 

Screws on the shift boot ring aren't clocked too well.............

 

Maybe you should check in person.

 

It is possible the trans tunnel cover might be angled on either side making the screws...In reality dead nuts perfect.



But thanks for keeping an eye out for the miniscule. It is all about the details!

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Now we are worrying about SCREW"S! I want burn outs, gears jamming, rpms screaming, Jackson crying little girl tears!!!!! NOT SCREW"S!!!! lol Just kidding ,I get caught up in anal shit like that all the time. Larry

 

Believe it or not I Googled '64 Cobra cockpit photos to see which way the originals were clocked. Sad but true. LMAO!

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IMO I would like it better if the stiching didn't show. Back to steering wheel button for the LL at the start line?

 

Where can you get those carpet strips? Seems like the hot ticket for avoiding a big upholstery bill and a a DIY install.

 

I got mine at Homedepot, stair runner.

 

Salty, have you ever been tested for Lyme disease?

 

Sorry if this is a duplicate on this thread. Just too cool not to share.

 

I cut all those strips down to size before making patterns and cutting them to fit. The roll started out as 40" wide. Pretty standard for vintage auto carpet. This is not a stair runner, it is from a place in Kansas City that sells auto carpet and upholstery wholesale. This an early to mid sixtys loop style in a vintage gold color but has modern rubberized backing.

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Stair runner is also 40" wide. The pattern lines run the 40" width. I got the light gray, wife does spillage on occasion. They had a couple blues, black, and maybe a charcoal. Put it in in 1993 and still doing fine; only wear is from right foot heel at gas pedal and I saw it starting so I just added a disposable piece..

 

Carpet looks great! Care to share the name of the wholesaler? Did you get the edge binding from them as well?

 

National Fabric Company, Inc.
901 S 7th St, Kansas City, KS 66105
(913) 281-1822
https://national-fabric-company-inc.business.site/

Binding
https://www.bondproducts.com/instabind-carpet-binding-tape/

 

More carpet work this weekend. Trying to knock all the small custom fit areas out.



This is a fun one. But just taking our time and making really good patterns before cutting the carpet to fit.





Dad got jiggy with hose and scrub brush this afternoon on the wheels and tires.



They really look nice.

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Do you know a good sticker guy that can make some clear stick and peel quarter panel covers so when you do a crap your pants 3/4 track burn out that makes Jackson want to put in it in reverse and back up into the pits so you don't ruin those beautiful Drag Snake decals with all the burnt rubber from those beautiful wheels and slicks? lol Did I ever mention I LOVE THIS BUILD!!! Larry

 

I do know a few...lol. but to be honest, I am looking forward to some burnout evidence back there. You know kind of a baptism by fire. We will wear that burned rubber as proudly as the snake graphic itself.

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Speaking of burnouts, I did find a new set of dash lights and got them back in today.



The red one in the photo is the line lock.

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I built a stock car like this once. It was entirely too nice to put on a race track. By the second race night, the owner/driver had fixed that for me!

I can't stop on the little details. You're ticking the right boxes.

 

I got a PM yesterday asking how we designed the suspension on the Cobra. (ie: How we chose where to attach the torque arm up front to make sure the car launches correctly etc.) I went way back in the thread to have a peak and sure enough, I sort of left that math out. We were so excited about making the whole quarter elliptic torque arm set up fit the car that I never talked about it. So as we get really close to seeing how it works in person, here is how it worked on paper! LOL

First off it does not matter if we are talking torque arm or ladder bar or even 4 link etc. they all work on the exact same principles. On the surface it seems very complicated, especially a 4 link but in reality, it is extremely simply. All you need to master it is the ability to read a tape measure and to draw 4 straight lines!

First up I am going to define a few important terms here:

1. CG or Center of Gravity. This is a horizontal line that runs the length of the car. Now I know that sounds fairly scientific and I am sure there is some crazy complicated formula that could pinpoint it but it is an industry standard to go with Cam height. Is it exact? No. But it is close enough in most cars to get the job done.


2. IC or Instant Center. This is the area that whatever suspension you are using makes contact with the chassis. Meaning the second you hit the throttle, this is the area where all the torque is applied as the rearend tries to rotate.


For the Cobra it is the little yellow bullseye mark. It is where our single torque arm attaches to the chassis. The cool part is, as I said above it does not matter what kind of transfer system you are using they all use the exact same formula.


If the Cobra had Ladder bars this is how they would look.


If we had a four link system, this how it would look, albeit the lines from the where the upper and lower bars mount are imaginary to the instant center. But that is exactly how it works. Obviously this is why a four link is so popular, it allows you to adjust that instant center after the fact. Pretty cool but not something you would have found in the early 1960s.


So here is the simple math or geometry if you will. After you know (or have estimated the CG), you simply need two straight vertical lines YELLOW. On the rear we centered on the wheel looking for the center of the contact patch of the slicks.

Up front were are looking for a vertical line through the center of the spindle. Where that front vertical line (yellow) intersects the CG line (blue) is the point we are looking for. Now from that intersection point back to the center of the contact patch is a straight line (red) called the Neutral line. Some call it the 100% anti squat line. But in my opinion, while that defines its meaning perfectly, it is a bit of mouth full. Lol

In a perfect world, that is the line where you want your transfer system to place the instant center point or as close as possible. The further above the Neutral line you place the IC the more body lift you get and the harder the rear tires are pressed down. This can become very violent and cause all kinds of craziness at launch. In the opposite direction, the further below the line the body squats and lifts the rear wheels losing traction. Note, these are extremes in either direction. The goal is to simply keep it as close to the line as possible.

The last thought about the Neutral Line (when you are starting a build) is where to place the instant center. The shorter the system or closer to the rear wheels the IC lands the more violent the power transfer and quicker it dissipates. The longer or further away from the rear wheels the launch is less violent and the transfer lasts longer. In a drag car that is what you want. To keep the weight transfer going as long as possible after the launch.

As you can see on the Cobra, we have a pretty long torque tube and I am sure you have noted we are a bit below the Neutral line. For me that is an educated guess at the Center Gravity. Since this is a roadster with very little weight above the cam, I am guessing our center of gravity is a bit lower than the standard application of this theory. My bet is, where we are now right on the line or just a shade above it. WE SHALL SEE!

 

Thanks for the engineering lesson.

 

The Cobra is out catching some sun this afternoon.







When it cools off this evening we are going to finish installing the side graphics including the two missing stripes below the grill. Before I took it off the stands we fueled her up so we are just about ready to let it rip.

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Roof is back on.







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Well I have been waiting along time to stick the Cobra emblem on the nose!


We got the rest of the graphics on as well. I am much happier with the finished product.







Still with out a doubt my favorite view of the car...oh and there is Cobra emblem back there too.



Emblem placement on the nose is 12" down from the hood. On the rear 17.5" down from trunk line. Just where old Carol put them. Lol

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Got rear window glass, or going with Lexan?

 

Lexan.

 

I have made a note of all graphic's and finish paint. If any are missing or there is primer on it again, I will send James and Jackson down there to hold you while Dad slaps you silly!

 

I think the only thing missing right now is the 289 CU on the scoop. I have no idea where those things got off to....LOL