Ok, my buddy's '37 chevy pickup with a big block is exhibiting a classic GM hot start condition. It starts up, he drives it, runs in the store, comes out and nothing. Lets it cool for awhile and it starts right up. It sounds like the classic hot starter condition, but he has a remote solenoid on the thing. Anyone have an idea of what it could be before we tear into it tomorrow?
Does it even click? Could be the starter motor itself and not the solenoid. Where is the remote solenoid mounted? Could be just getting to hot even though its mounted away from the exhaust.
let me know what it was, when you get it fixed. USUALLY replacing the starter will fix it for a few years. Not always.
the idea behind the remote solenoid is to bypass the copper contact disc in the solenoid to prevent the 'click click no crank' problem.the disc connects the battery terminal to the main cable going into the starter when the solenoid plunger is thrown into the start position,and also engages the gear.yours sounds like the solenoid plunger is sticking,when hot.i had one like that.got a new 20 dollar solenoid and good to go.i also slabbed some anti-seize on the plunger to keep it free and moving.the remote solenoid 'line out' should also be hooked to the lower terminal of the starter closer to the starter body..the one going into the body,thus bypassing the gm factory starter solenoid as a switch,leaving it to the regular ol mechanical duties of throwing the gear into place.hope this helps.
I had a similar problem with a trunk mounted battery grounded to the frame (behind rear wheel), and rubber engine mounts (isolated). I ran a large braided ground strap from the engine to the frame and a small stap from the firewall to engine. Fixed the problem instantly. You can see if this will help you by trial with quality jumper cables from the engine to the frame (close to engine).
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Make sure the copper/bronze bolt where the big cable attaches is snug in the solenoid and the battery terminal is snug as well. If that's ok, open up the solenoid. Take a look at where the contact disc hits the square headed copper/bronze bolt. You'll probably find it worn away to a considerable depth on about a third of the head surface. What happens is, when the contact is broken the electrical arc eats away at the square headed bolt. The resulting loss of material on the bolt head doesn't make good electrical contact when the solenoid plunger reaches the end of it's travel. Most times it can be fixed easily by loosening the bolt, then turn the bolt head 180 degrees giving you a fresh contact surface and re-torque. Other times it may require a new bolt. Real parts houses carry these and you may have to get one at an Auto-Electric Tune-Up house. These places have lots of weird little parts and are a good resource. I cured my daughters Toyota/Nissan? -don't remember for sure - pickup's starter trouble by replacing the copper/bronze bolt. Nice part is, most times with GM's, it's a freebie fix....
Also, if you have a lifetime warranty starter, and the starter came with the solenoid installed on it, replacing the whole thing is a freebie fix, and will cure the solenoid issues (as well as the worn brushes and bushings).
I fought this same problem for a year. New solenoids, heat shields, etc, etc. I moved the battery ground cable from the welded stud on the frame to the trans case...problem solved. If the battery ground doesn't go directly to the block or trans case, move it there. Even heavy jumper grounds add more connections in the system that add resistance with age. It's a loop...from the battery out to the starter and back through the grounds to the battery again. Anything in that loop, corroded terminal, loose connection, too small a cable for the length of the run, positive or negative, can interupt the flow...no start.
Unfortunately, heat soaking doesn't just get the solenoid. The windings inside the starter also get too hot. 2 options, over the frame headers, or mini racing starter. starter heat shields also help.
On my 38 Chevy (car) with the 454 I had this problem also. Even the remote solenoid along with the factory "high torque" starter would not cut it. Engine grounded direct to frame (rear mounted battery). What I eventually did was just pay up the bucks and get the highest torque aftermarket starter I could find, one from Powermaster. It solved my problem, I still get slow crank when hot, but an ignition cut out to get it cranking and then flip ignition on. Fires up great now. My advice, just make sure you have good electrical contact at all points and then pay the bucks for a real good starter.
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