Please go easy. (New to Flathead) Is this a possible reason my 8BA runs like crap? Heavy carbon on piston tops and valves after 500 miles? No exhaust smoke indicate rich mixture These are Edelbrock 65 Cc heads and the plug is an NGK B6 I was cleaning things up to put this motor back together and noticed this that the plug is a mile from the chamber . As mentioned in an earlier thread the engine was removed and torn down in search of a constant ticking noise. I am waiting for new timing gears and distributor gear to put this engine back together. .060 over 8BA with mentioned heads. Isky Max1 and dual 97s on Eddie Meyer manifold. Distributor is a “Mag Look” Hunt. What plugs do you recommend?Speedway says Autolite 3924. Just wondering if someone else is running a similar combo and what do they prefer? Thanks to all as always.
Hi Eric, you need to get some Autolite 3924's to start off with, we use these on almost all our "pump-gas" builds (requiring long reach plugs) for the initial firing? We refer to these as "the pump-gas special" plugs, they are "black" in color!! Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. Make sure to clean all that carbon out of those plug threads before you install the new .750" reach plugs.
Yep,what Gary says. ^^ The NGK equivalent is FR4 if you prefer that brand. Your current plugs are shrouded enough to cause problems for sure... Terry
I have had good luck in other engines with NGK. Any chance in the world. This could be causing the tick?
I doubt it,Eric. Does it tick at idle speed...just sitting still? Does it sound like one cylinder or all of them? Maybe try to describe the sound as best you can. Terry
I had submitted another thread looking for the tick in this engine. I am replacing the timing gears and distributor gear tomorrow. Just clawing at reason for the constant ticking in this particular motor. We went as far as to buy a new engine from a HAMB member that was destroyed in shipping. So anything is worth a chance or try at this point. Out of options and cash. Thanks
Hi Eric , NGK s are excellent plugs,,,,,,but seems like these old engines like the Autolites better . I know it doesn’t make sense,,,,but I can’t explain it . Like Gary said,,,,get the correct reach plug . Gary is pretty darn smart,,,,,and builds a ton of these engines in New York.,,,he’s on the Barn more than he is here . He knows Flatheads . And no,,,,,the ticking noise is not from the short reach plug . I think your new gears will help that . Tommy
Take a look at NGK BR6HS plugs. They have the right length for my Edelbrock heads on an 8ba. Also changed to 180 degree thermostats to prevent cold plugs and carbon fouling.
I honestly didn’t see how that could cause the tick. But as usual there’s always the hope that someone will say “ One time the same thing happened to me”. Lol. Heads back on and torqued. I am very surprised the car started as well as it did with those plugs as they were before .Hopefully it will be going back in the car tomorrow evening. As always. Thank you all for your knowledge and advice. Eric.
I bought a built 8ba that was in a T bucket. They had a little knock they couldn't find (was a rebuilt engine) so they pulled it and went with a SBF. I bought the engine from a friend and found the piston(s) was/were touching the aluminum head(s). 4 1/8" stroke with 4" stroke pistons! We fly cut the heads to clear the pistons and have been running it for many years in my '40 Ford Tudor Standard. Dave
You could have adjusted the plug hole depth with a spark plug thread repair kit surface drill and used the proper plugs. JMHO
been using NGK s in all of my flatheads without problems if your plug is short you can always take a countersink and create a precombustion chamber by removing the extra threads in head for the tick have you clayed everything???