I have another thread going dealing with fuel issues. I dropped the tank this morning and am not loving what I'm seeing inside. I had it coated over 10 years ago but after seeing whats going on its pretty clear its failed and is probably contributing, at least in part, to my overall problems. My local Gas tank renu wants $800 to cut open the tank, scrape/blast the inside, weld it back up and seal it inside and out. That's definitely not my favorote option. NOS tanks are around $500 shipped. Is there another option you guys know of before I spring for a new tank? The DIY option doesn't sound all that great since there's no way I could do the job as well as the pros for the same price. This is for a 1953 Chrysler wagon. Thanks everyone, NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Get the new one and be done. That is what I did after fighting for years with the old one. Three years or so now and NO problem. Ben
If the tank is a good one why not take it to your local radiator shop and have it vatted? With the tank soaking in a hot tank overnight you will be sure it has dissolved all the crap in the tank. HRP
You can still get a NOS tank for that oddball car, delivered for $500, and you are asking us dumb questions? Pay the money and feel lucky!
No shit....If you can find a radiator repair shop that still has a tank he is going to charge you that much anyway.
I find it hard to believe that you can find a NOS station wagon tank. Buy it. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wow, tough Friday crowd. Not sure how asking if my otherwise solid fuel tank can be salvaged is a stupid question. Seems the opposite to me. The radiator shops I called with hot tanks said the liner may not get boiled out so that option was out. The oddball shape goes up along side the spare tire well in the rear which is where the fuel sending unit and filler neck both connect so using a flat tank would require more fabrication and decrease my fuel capacity as adding thickness would put it precariously closer to the ground. For the rest of ya, thanks for the replies. I ordered a new tank. NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It only seems like a stupid question to the guys who have never been able to find a NOS tank for their old car at any price. You did the right thing...
You will never regret buying a new tank. I'm surprised one was available considering you have a wagon.
If you have a real wallet...just buy the new tank.If your on a budget heres what I would try.Cut a hole on the top...say 10"x14" so you can get inside.Try removing the old sealer.May be heat will soften it so you can scrape it out.If you can get that out do the old trick with a battery charger,and washing soda,and water to kill the rust.Some guys have good luck with powdered Citric acid / water to kill rust so that may clean it up.Once clean Either weld the removed section back on,or tack it in a dozen, places and solder the rest.Way I see it you have little to lose by trying.You can always buy the NOS tank.
About 3 years ago, I had a tank for an OT car, cut open and cleaned, welded back together at a radiator shop, 220 bucks. Now the tank was made for an '89 car, I never used sealer/etc, what did GM do? I dunno. Been fine since.
You will never regret having the New tank. The pain of paying for it will pass as soon as you realize you haven't been on the side of the road due to that Fuel issue you used to have.
http://www.moparpro.com/product/1953-1954-plymouth-station-wagon-brand-new-fuel-tank/ New tank $399.00 and $35.00 flat rate shipping. Go !!!
Replace it and get it over with, had the same thing happen with my stock 29 Ford. I spent a lot of time trying to get all the failed liner out and put in a wire filter in the fuel line where it goes into the tank and still have occasional problems. Don't want to replace it since it is the top of the cowl and car was painted over 30 years ago.
Along with the NOS tank which IMO is a wise choice, consider the gasoline additive StaBil 360* it claims to createa rust proofing vapor throughout the fuel system's exposed metal such as the metal exposed in a half full fuel tank. I've been using it for several years in both my hot rods, and the Hiboy "A" roadster has the tank in the trunk with a very short filler neck. I can see the tank interior walls easily when fuel is low and there is NO RUST anywhere. This is in a 10 year old Tanks, Inc. steel universal tank. I haven't heard of anyone having too much success with the tank coatings with the new gasoline blends found in pumps today. NOS means new OLD stock, and in another few years when that recoating would have failed, all that old stock could be gone, or most certainly more expensive.
Honestly I think its been a combination of 10 really good years of use and the change in gasoline to include Ethanol. At the end of this endeavor I'll have a brand new fuel system from tank to carb including a return line along with a new ignition system. This will hopefully eliminate all the problems so I can get back to enjoying my wagon and more importantly, getting back to making this my go-to car for hopping in and going anywhere. Thanks again everyone for the replies and suggestions. I'll keep this aNd the other thread updated NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
RCI aluminum tank mounted in the trunk... I would make sure you have a 3/8" supply line and a 1/4" return line to keep vapor lock from being an issue..