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Technical Long distance towing with a Y-Block?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Finn Jensen, Jul 31, 2020.

  1. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,591

    birdman1
    Member

    Just be sure all the brakes are good and use the equalizer hitch. That is a nice pickup
     
    Finn Jensen likes this.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,941

    squirrel
    Member

    My wife bought a new truck in 2008, full size, with the V6, 262 cubic inches. It sucked for towing, only because the engine is too small. Later, she got a similar truck, with the 325 cubic inch V8. It tows just fine. Towing load being similar to what you are dealing with.

    If you want a good towing experience, put a bigger engine in the truck. Seriously.
     
    Flat Six Fix likes this.
  3. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks, I appreciate it. I already ordered front disk brakes from Master Power Brakes, been awaiting delivery..
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  4. One vote here for an OT Chevy Silverado crew cab. Old trucks can't match the anti lock brakes , power , ride quality, reliability ,safety, etc...when towing 3800 lbs
     
  5. You will hate the 3 speed trans when you come to the first long hill.
    Listen to squirrel....bigger engine, better trans if you are serious about towing.
     
  6. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,115

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    In 1964,I got used 57 Ford 292 V8 std. 3 speed wagon an used it to tow my trailer an race car up and down Florida,lasted 3 years,an I found another used wagon,this time 352 Ford an used it up too, in a few years as tow car. Next Ford Wag was 390.
    Kept doing that tell I stopped racing in 2000,but still dayly drive a wagon. I guess I like wagons,have had now 18 used wagons.
    Never owned a pickup,but like the looks of them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2021
    Boneyard51 and alanp561 like this.
  7. I used a master cyl for a 72 f100 with discs
    Bought a booster and MS combo.
     
  8. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I had a short bed step side '77 F100 that I thought rode OK going to Bonneville and El Mirage and some drags for years. Think about the guys in 49. Some big hills between the salt and anywhere. And it gets hot out there. Two lane roads. towing with flatheads and 216 Chevy sixes. They did OK because they didn't know any better. You want to be nostalgic, just drive slower and you will be fine I bet.
     
    warbird1 and Boneyard51 like this.
  9. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Jim. If I can't make the Y-Block work, I'll put in a Ford FE as an absolute last resort..
     
  10. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Tim. You probably have more Y-Block experience than most on the H.A.M.B., and I respect your opinions.
     
  11. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks. I see that the fan shroud is missing on this truck, and the radiator looks to be really small. Vintage Air offers a fan shroud, which I will order immediately. If cooling proves to be a problem, I will definitely order a larger radiator. I plan A/C down the road, so I may want to do that sooner than later.
     
  12. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Lynn. Great suggestion. Old School is a priority for me, and a replacement with an FE engine is a logical final resort if the Y-Block absolutely will not work.
     
  13. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Phat rat, I wasn’t coming down on GM, even tho I’m a Ford guy! My point was spring rate. My friends Diesel four door daully 4x4 is sprung heavy and rides bad! I have another friend that has about the same truck, he bought new, and it rode real rough. He added air bags and different shocks and really improved the ride. AKA changing spring rate, same length truck.
    I will agree a longer vehicle would ride better than a short vehicle with exactly the same springs, but the major factor in ride is spring rate/ capacity. With shocks coming in second, vehicle length a distant third.








    Bones
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,941

    squirrel
    Member

    Using a weight distributing hitch mostly takes care of the wheelbase issue. I've towed with my short wheelbase Tahoe quite a bit, it works pretty well. The 57 Suburban I had worked well too, but the comfort level was pretty bad--original seats, primitive HVAC, etc.
     
  15. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Towing and engine size are relative . Back in the day, 1957, we towed a large four wheel trailer ,loaded with our belongings,with a 1937 Ford ton and a half , loaded with a Allis tractor, tool boxes and a lot of other heavy stuff, 1500 miles. We did this with a 85 horsepower 239 cubic inch Ford flathead! Admittedly sometimes is was slow going, especially on the 17 mile grade around the Arizona /California line on old Rt 66.
    That’s one extreme, the other is people want to pull 10,000 plus lbs trailer and never shift a gear or loose speed on a steep hill.
    That’s why they make transmissions and the reason over the road trucks have 15 gears. That’s why I like the truck four speed! Totally eliminates shifter problems. Allows you up grade to a little higher rear gears, for crusing at higher speeds, even with a comparable light trailer load. It also let’s you pick up third gear on an incline and allows your engine to wind up into its horsepower range and keep up speed. There are better transmissions that that old T-98 or NP435..... but none cheaper or easier to install!
    People just need to fine where they are comfortable with which combo of power/ transmission/dollars!








    Bones
     
  16. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,591

    birdman1
    Member

    Hell, mount the 64 cabon a super duty diesel!!!
     
  17. I applaud your vintage towing efforts.
    I use my bus to grab parts. Building the flatbed to take those duties over.
    Hot in the summer, cold in the winter.
    Both hands on the wheel adventure driving.
    Yee Haa
     
    squirrel likes this.
  18. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,920

    phat rat
    Member

    Boneyard, I didn't think you were that's why I didn't mention any make just manufacturer. It's a 1 ton crew cab diesel dually that I pull with and the ride is fine. We use it as much or more than the wife's car. Since the early 60's I've pulled with about everything. Most of the advice here is right on just different paths to follow
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  19. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    I understand! I’m just kind of a spring freak! I love them! We had a OT, 72 1/2 ton Ford pick on the ranch , we bought new, that had the most fantastic set of rear springs I ever saw! It had five, progressive over load springs on it! It made no difference if it was loaded or empty it rode almost the same.... excellent! And had outstanding load carrying capacity! I once hauled 4400 lbs of melons in it a 150 miles. I didn’t know I had that much until I weighed out! Hauled it like it was nothing. That 2 1/4 tons on a 1/2 ton truck! After that I was throughly impressed with springs! And realized that manufactures could make a good set of springs if they wanted to! Every light truck in the world should have a set of springs like that old Ford!








    Bones
     
  20. roberthoop
    Joined: Dec 7, 2020
    Posts: 1

    roberthoop

    New to this- but was wondering if you could put a 302 in this truck for more power- will the 302 fit the original transmission for the 292, or even the 239y? I think the 292 and 239y will bolt to same transmission- not sure about the 302?
     
  21. Nope. Unless an aftermarket adaptor is available.
    Ford loved making all kinds of different trans and bell housing bolt patterns.
    And different input shaft lengths.
    Even car and truck versions.
     
  22. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,707

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    Not a truck, but it thought it was : From the late '70s through the late '80s I used a '59 2dr Ford wagon w/292(2bbl), 3 spd trans, w/3.89 rear gears as a tow vehicle/enclosed PU to haul a race car trailer(& anything else that needed towing) all over Northern CA. The only thing I added was an 11" flywheel/clutch combo from a PU, & there's many a time I wish I hadn't let it get away!! Today I'd probably add front disc brakes, mostly due to the "modern" drivers!
     
  23. Several issues with that to start with, no 8' bed. Cannot get above a 9000Lb. GVW without going to a diesel. Ford has that and more. Dodge, well worse than gm.
     
  24. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,801

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One more thing which I had to do with my last 2 new F-150's. Find a way to add Air-Lift air bags. I fill mine separately at the license plate. 20 psi empty and 60-70 with the trailer. Really helped stability...
     
    southerncad and LWEL9226 like this.
  25. I put a bazillion miles on a 67 Chevy Suburban. Before that I used pickups and they beat me to death. That Suburban was like riding on a cloud. BB, 400 trans, power steering and disc brakes. 80% of my my tows were at least 2500-3000 round trips dragging everything under the sun behind me. That Burb really spoiled me. Sure, you can tow anything with anything, but why? Lookin' cool going down the road is small consolation when you're ass is being beaten to death. Why not just choose the best for the job, and leave the excuses, and back brace, at home.
     
    seb fontana likes this.
  26. I’ve driven two vintage 292’s, they have great low end torque for the era! Sadly I had to make a choice to sell my last 60 F100 before I got to build it, to save my 55 Effie with a 53 flatty!

    I saved the boxes of vintage 292 performance parts I’d accumulated to get er dun... and I dream about finding another good Std Bore 292 to build for my 55!

    Your upgraded braking, load levelers, equalizer Hitch, load levelers, E-Series rear tires and HD shocks, and upgrade your cooling as stated, it’ll tow like a champ...

    You want a little better Hwy speed; get a Hamb friendly vintage truck 3 Spd overdrive... not the strongest tranny in the world (but you won’t be popping the clutch for burnouts either), and re-gaer the 9”!

    Now get a pair of of Ramshorn’s and dual exhaust for that natural lope and great vintage sound...

    You’ll be the belle of the ball... you want vintage AC, or power steering, it’ll spin that too!...

    How the hell did our fathers do it without modern era trucks, they didn’t think twice about it, they just did it


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
    warbird1, Finn Jensen and egads like this.
  27. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 675

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's been a while since I posted this thread. For the last several months, this little truck has been sitting in my garage waiting for the current nationwide deep freeze to end. I have been fixing numerous small discrepancies all along, but this is an update of major work:

    I replaced worn kingpins, and did a complete four-wheel alignment. And I pitched the O/T wheels and tires. The wheels are 16" steel from Wheel Smith all around, 7" wide on the front and 8"wide rear. The rubber is Firestone at all points, 205/70R16 front and 265/70R16 rear.

    I went with 16" wheels to assure clearance with front disc brakes; they fit just fine. I installed the front disc setup from Master Power Brakes, but chose not to include the vacuum booster.

    With the changes above, the truck steers straight, turns easily and stops smoothly. As I mentioned earlier, I do not plan to replace the stock front axle with independent front suspension -- or to drop the front of the truck.

    I haven't touched engine internals. I did change oil/filter, and installed gauges to better monitor the vitals. The engine has always run cool, but I installed a large aluminum radiator (Cold-Case) as a precaution to deal with hot summer towing. Oil pressure is stable at 40 psi, hot and cold. The original generator charged OK, but I replaced it with a 100 amp alternator as a precaution -- thinking about air conditioning down the road.

    The engine has an interesting nameplate that says that it was "re-manufactured by Fred Jones manufacturing company" in Oklahoma City, a company then authorized by Ford. Unfortunately, the nameplate does not provide a re-manufacture date.

    I did replace the crappy aftermarket floor-shifter with a new Hurst 3-speed "Master-Shifter."

    I pulled the entire exhaust system to replace it with "ram's horn" exhaust manifolds and 2¼" exhaust tubing back to under the bumper. And finished up this year with wiring and brake controller to the hitch connector.

    My remaining priority before towing any distance is to replace the clutch assembly. It works smoothly now, but the disc is worn quite thin. I don't want to chance losing the clutch far from home.

    My 37 Ford on my 16" trailer puts a combined 4200 lbs on the trailer wheels plus ~300 lbs on the trailer hitch (with load equalizer). I think that the Y-Block will pull just fine, but time will tell.

    The first two local drag-race events for me in 2021 are Union Grove (Wisconsin) in June and Byron (Illinois) in July. These both will be short-distance pulls that should shake out any problems, before I launch off for long-distance towing -- and hopefully the H.A.M.B. drags later this year.

    [​IMG] rear quarter.JPG Interior.JPG DSCF7140.JPG 37 Ford on car-hauler.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  28. MO54Frank
    Joined: Apr 1, 2019
    Posts: 440

    MO54Frank
    Member

    You got a great looking truck. It will probably do the job, but will have a thin margin of safety.
    My towing story: in 1993 I towed a small farm tractor on a really heavy 2-axle trailer (with no brakes) about 50 miles with a first generation Chevy S10, small V6, 5-speed, bumper hitch. Made it just fine, but I really knew it was back there...
    Be safe!
     
  29. MeanGene427
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 2,307

    MeanGene427
    Member
    from Napa

    When I first started working with my stepdad's paving company in Napa, we had a 58 F250 with a 292 and granny box, dead stock except dual exhaust that actually sounded pretty good. He bought a new small asphalt paver, that came with a side-loading ramp trailer. So that old Ford had a pair of 55 gal drums for gas and diesel, shovels, rakes, chains, Wacker plate etc every day, probably a ton in the bed. So it gets the paver towing job. We did the roads and driveways to many of those high-end houses up on the hills along the Napa Valley, and he had a passion for taking jobs that other contractors refused as being too steep. With all the weight in the back, that old beast would tow that paver anywhere we wanted to go, the 292 was a tough and lionhearted sucker and dependable as a rock. By comparison, he later bought a 68 GMC 2500 with a 350 and granny, with fat tires on the back, and many times we had to hook a tractor to that one to make it up some of those hills. That 292 will be fine, spend your effort on brakes and hitch
     

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