Technical Yeah, Its got a Hemi/41 shop truck

I have had the Rhino lining on my 53F100 boards for at least 12 years. Still as black as when first coated.

 

Billy, I know a thing or 3 about Checkerboard painting. I was having a relapse into my Checkered past when I did this layout. Notice the Black spots get longer towards the bottom and the White spots get narrower. My best advice is "Don't go there"

 

@Bandit Billy those running boards are teets!

 

Yeah, you know you want to see them with the pipes in right?

Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my close up

Looking good!

tucked at the front, flared at the back.

Ribbed, for her pleasure

I cant believe they weren't offered like this originally. @Moriarity sorry, I changed out the end caps dude.

"I love it when a plan comes together!" - John "Hannibal" Smith A Team

 

Oh you know I am going there. I'll be asking for tips soon like an underworked waitress.

 

Those boards look really nice. Thanks for making me want to drag the DeSoto hemi out from under the bench and start on the Model A roadster project before the wagon gets finished, or get paint on the T'bird...

 

Just a thought but won’t the temperature of those pipes be above the melting point of the rhino liner?

 

You already know I don't think like Normal people and how I get things done seldom ever work out for others. But you can try it.

 

So, the real question is are the pipes gonna be functional? I'm with 51Box....

 

@Bandit Billy I stand by my previous statement

 

We have to motivate one another, after all it was you that pushed me to get the 34 on road.

 

That would be a nasty little smell wouldn't it. For the first incarnation, not hooked up. I had the exhaust built to splice these in with and I have pair of those SS mesh flax connectors and v bands for them. But my wife has to step over these things and I hung them directly under the doors. We will see how she gets in and out once it is assembled before hooking up the "calve burners".

 

You could install some of the electric cut out valves to keep them from being hot all of the time, just open them when you want to run open exhaust.

 

Exhaust is a funny thing. Even with shut off valves there is this thing called Ambient temp, meaning the total exhaust system will end up the same temp even without being live.

 

This p/u is really coming out nice, a real standout with the attention to detail you've incorporated into the build.
Never been a fan of rino lining running boards, but you provide a convincing example for me to ponder.
Onward, we all want to see the finished product (maybe not as much as you though, I'm sure).

 

I would think that the flex connectors would help insulate the lake pipes to a certain degree.

 

I'm thinking what others say: 1 great job on the boards and pipes 2. They will get hot even with the ends closed but I'm not sure if the coating will stand up to it or not but I'm guessing others with experience with that coating can answert that. Other than that only option would be to have them be false pipes or just deal with possibility of re-coating them every once in a while.

 

I think those Moon end caps need to spend some time against the Buffer.

 

Yes they do!! I need a new set of polishing wheels, mine are worn down to the hub.

 

I'm glad I found someone with my sickness.

 

Roothawg
The difference is your sickness has a cure.

 

There is a vaccine coming but until then I wear a mask when polishing in public. Oh, that didn't sound right

 

I have been wasting time on the "shroud of torino" a cheap aluminium (GB) piece that I bought from Summit (CN) and it is the exact measurements of my radiator. It only required a huge hole to be cut in the center (Plasma cutter) and the hoop riveted in after a myriad of measurements (US). \

Yes, that is a mighty hole, nearly 18" in diameter (almost from every angle) plenty to fit the 16 3/4 fan (I hope).
It is a TIG welded creation that I plan to powder coat satin black. I purchased some aluminium (GB) rivets and unleashed the mighty air chisel/riveter (HF).

As you can see I flattened a few on the hoop but things got progressively better as I moved to the dumby corner brackets that hide the TIG welds. I am thinking that if made a practice of bucking aluminium (sic) rivets I would cut a round crater in the bucking bar to prevent the heads from distorting.

Like I said, it will get a liberal (…) coat of the powder after I rig the mounting brackets. That will wait on the removal of the front end coming soon to a thread near you. And by that I mean this one.

 

Did you find a hood release handle?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/220...590942275141349/?sale_post_id=590942275141349

Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

So, just curious....did you use your bucking bar on the tail and shoot the head? The design is to shoot the head with a curved set and the buck the backside. You should have a bucked tail that is 1.5 the diameter of your rivet and approx. 1/2 of the diameter tall when done.

 

No disrespect to Bandit, I'm going to say no...zoom in there is a flat on the head...that's either flat snap or flat bar...

I know you're an aircraft guy Root. Interesting my Hotrod had this as well but at the end of the day it's a Hotrod...I still credit these fellas for giving it their best shot...

For any Hambers who take riveting on this is the Snap for Domed Rivets...they aren't terribly expensive come in many sizes and you can add a layer of masking tape to prevent damage to the head...

I believe the technical name for Dome Head Rivets is Universal Head as opposed to Countersunk...

Yard Store, Aircraft Spruce, US Tool, are places where you can get these...

​

 

I applaud guys for trying. You wouldn't know if you have never done it. Ford did the opposite. They would heat theirs and shoot it from the tail side, but those were steel.

 

And a waffled shop head to boot...at least for many

 

If the rivet set is in good condition you don't need any masking tape, just shoot it straight on and keep it engaged with the rivet head! A lot of rivets used in Great Dane semi trailers and no use of anything to protect the heads except proper use of the rivet gun.

 

There is a place in Wichita, KS that has a lot of surplus stuff from Cessna, Boeing, etc. I can spend hours in there walking around. Lots of rivet guns, sets, etc.

https://www.yardstore.com/