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Technical Remove one layer of paint - 1 repaint over factory 63 Impala

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by indyjps, Jul 18, 2020.

  1. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    Looking for methods that you've used to remove a repaint over a factory paint job. Power wash, razor blade, hand sand /DA method, chemical options.

    Heres the car.
    206784-1281026909-9c6d98b6f20c8f9da27353e09b154289.jpg

    Im guessing its a quickie enamel over the factory paint, I dont see evidence of primer where its wearing thru.

    The car is in storage a few hours away, Ill try some things out next time im there.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
  2. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    I want to test some areas and see if the blue is salvageable, on the top half of the car. Id probably shoot any rust repair areas in epoxy tinted blue. Would like to get some of the body panels at least rust repaired.

    This car is a parts car for my fathers 409 SS, bought it as a stalled restoration. The previous owner was midstream on a frame off, chassis is all rebuilt and painted about 15 years ago, likely needs gone thru again for brakes etc. Or we'll use chassis parts like brake lines, suspension etc for the 409 car, not sure yet.

    I cant take ownership until we get his car finished up. Ill use whats left for a build.

    When I get moving on this car, its a low stress back burner project, old blue paint cut in with epoxy is fine. I have enough spare parts sitting around to get it driving. Goal is to make it drive and keep it driving, as I do improvements. Not looking to do a full tear down - I'm in the middle of a frame off now on an OT, and not looking for that again anytime soon.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
  3. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,262

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

  4. I did it years ago when I had more time than money on a 51 ford I had. It was a very straight body with no rust (save for some in the floors) and it had been primered black at some point. but upon opening the doors you could see it was a very nice marron. it took about a month of wet sanding the primer off of it and then I cut an buffed it. it wasn't perfect by any means but looked 1000% better than black primer. just get some tape for all the body line edges and panel edges and pick a spot to start sanding. by the time your done you wont be able to feel your fingers any more but you will get the top layer of paint off.
     

  5. be prepared to find some ugly stuff though it guaranteed that there Is something hiding under that paint somewhere.
     
    dirty old man and The37Kid like this.
  6. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,488

    noboD
    Member

    Keep in mind the green is lacquer.
     
  7. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,787

    The37Kid
    Member

    Why? You could razor blade a better car, but all that rust in the quarter needs to be blasted clean. What is your final goal? Bob
     
  8. Seems like a lot of work to replace one shitty paint job with another.
     
    The37Kid and Roothawg like this.
  9. oldskool.
    Joined: Sep 11, 2010
    Posts: 62

    oldskool.
    Member
    from florida

    That rear quarter panel is going to need to be taken down to bare metal, at that point you might as well do the whole car correctly or you will doing it all again shortly.
     
    The37Kid likes this.
  10. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    I think Chris in Washington State has done it a number of times on his pick ups and if I remember he uses buffing compound. It's a lot of work for a patina effect that a lot of people are sick of.
     

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