Hi all, My name is Matt and I live near Greensboro, NC. Bought a 40 Ford 4dr Deluxe that was frame off in 2012 and had been driven less than 1000 miles since. It is a rust free example done by a serious builder that put 40K into her. I bought it last week and wouldn’t you know it, within 50 miles I have a potentially serious issue. Engine is a 1953 8BA. I was setting the timing ( it was running hot ) when after 30 minutes of neighborhood testing, she would not shift. Tranny was spinning ever so slightly as to not go into first. I assumed a clutch adjustment was in order. Took it to my local guy who is an excellent mechanic who took the adjustment rod almost all the way. ( I still have 1.5” of pedal play ) ... he thought all was good, I took it out after, same darn thing! ... won’t shift when hot. Reached out to the guy I bought it from ... who said builder ( that he got it from ) said it had a 53 Truck clutch in it. Reading some threads it appears that doing so was not good. Some say the forks don’t reach the pressure plate fingers adequately. So my question is ... can I make a 1.5” longer adjusting rod or IF it is necessary to pull the tranny, what combination clutch and pressure plate bolts up to a 53 flywheel that will allow proper clutch action. Thanks in advance, my email is [email protected], 336-709-5500.
Hi Matt, I have a 40 Ford with a 51 Mercury engine. Before I drove the car I had a clutch problem. The throwout bearing would not touch the fingers even withe adusting rod fully extended Long story short. I had a floor shift transmission in the car from a from a 6 cylinder pick up. Clutch and pressure plate was order for 52 v8 pick up. I drove my local clutch rebuilder nuts about the height of the pressure plate fingers. I put the original side shift 40 trans in and solved all the clutch pedal adjusting problems. 6 cylinder trans case bell housing area is different than the v8. Clutch plate is 10", all clutch plates with 1 3/8 10 spline are all the same.
What transmission is in the car. If a 39 or 40 there should be an inspection plate on the top of the tranny. Remove it and in neutral (engine off) push in the clutch and see if the throwout bearing contacts the clutch fingers at the same time. Some new(er) pressure plates are not set correctly, and need to be adjusted, it's a pain but can be done w/out removing the tranny. Try changing the transmission fluid, using 600W or it's equivelant. FWIW Paul in CT
Matt, I also have an 8BA in my 40 Ford. The set up I have is" 1950 Merc. flywheel , with and 10 in Merc.clutch disc and pressure plate Used the stock 40 Ford throw out bearing and stock 40 transmission. Make sure you are using the correct Borg & Beck clutch components. Most folks say and 11 in clutch is overkill. I've used my 10 in set up since 1973. Do a search on Fordbarn for info. and also read the the following: https://www.google.com/search?q=bor.....69i57j33.18047j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Matt :Read every word in the major thread and the links. You'll find it to be a great help. You can use the 10 in . clutch with the 11 in. truck bell housing . https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275027&highlight=1950+merc+36+ford
Thanks much Paul, found one issue so far. I do have the inspection plate open. With the pedal correctly returned and even with the brake pedal, how far should my throw out be from fingers. fyi, I am installing new linkage components to eliminate all “ slop “ 10 pivot points off 1/8 add up as you know. Also, I now understand the value of 600w which is ordered.
to update this thread I am engaging the clutch but the input shafts is turning when she is hot. I suspect after talking with experts that the pilot bearing is failing ( dirt rust from a cheap bushing ) my plate is hanging up on the shaft. will install 600w, tighten up all linkage components adjust and go back to basics before it gets pulled which is a grand locally.
Matt: 600wt. is not the correct gear oil to be used in 39 and 40 transmissions. Read all about it here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36014&highlight=transmission+gear+oil and here https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275096&highlight=stalube+gl+gear+oil
I use the GL-4 gear oil too. check with you local parts store, if its not an Auto Zone or Advanced, a local independent or maybe a Napa. My old time parts store get me Smitty's 140 in a 5 gallon bucket for 80 bucks. its almost that much to buy quarts to do the trans and the rear. http://www.smittysinc.net/catalog/gear-oils/super-s-sae-140-gl-4-gear-oil-1213141656/
But I don't use any synthetics. Cause I was always told that synthetics leak more, and I have enough leaks as it is.
Tony, thanks for today. Can you send me a bottom shot of your dual exhaust? Might change mine over. Don’t know what yoir driver side looks like.
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