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Projects 1941 Ford Pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1oldtimer, Apr 7, 2017.

  1. Here's the 2.0 version of the gauge panel in progress, the first one was too short for everything (I didn't take into account the connections) and was too thick (free piece of 1/4" aluminum). So I went to the metal store and found a 1/8" thick aluminum rectangle chunk.

    I ordered an adjustable hole saw, I'll see how it works:
    [​IMG]
    Here's the panel so far:
    under dash panel-1.jpg

    And the gauge.

    Before (fuel far right):
    under dash gauges-1.jpg

    Replacing it with this one:
    nos elec fuel-1.jpg
     
    Stogy and Shadow Creek like this.
  2. Also, looks like I have to hit one of the knobs on the buffer as 1 is gloss and the other is flat.
     
  3. Hmm, should I go with satin (sander or blast finish) or polish the aluminum?.
     
  4. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,658

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    Looks great the Stain goes with the truck !
     
  5. The adjustable hole saw worked like a charm on 1/8" aluminum at low drill press speed. Now I just need to decide on a finish and clean it up. I would have liked the grouping closer and a smaller panel but the switches and light are too big.
    under dash panel-2.jpg

    Here's the window out and the top coat on (after Por15), can't really see much as it's black on black.
    windshield-1.jpg
     
    catdad49, Stogy and Shadow Creek like this.
  6. Well the Powerglide is leaking too bad to let it go any longer. Time to pull the engine and trans, replace some parts on the engine, drill the intake for a pcv and try my hand at rebuilding the Powerglide.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  7. The truck has really taken a beating with the salt air, everything facing forward is rusted (under the front end). The steering bars, the 2 yr old Pete and Jakes shackles, front edge of the powder coated backing plates all rusty :(. I'm going to change the core plugs to brass (steel now and was sitting for over 30ish years with water/coolant in it), change the intake manifold (Offy 360 to an older Edelbrock C3B), drill intake for a PCV fitting, clean up everything. I'm going to do a mild performance build on the Powerglide and the stupid Napa NEW master is leaking.....at least it's a lifetime warranty. I scored some cheap new Energy suspension motor mounts and a trans mount, no more sagging, cracking rubber and just in time as the oil pan is getting close to the steering.

    A lot of the fasteners are going to stainless that aren't under stress.....the Ace Hardware near me is closing and fasteners are 50% off :).
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2021
    Bandit Billy, catdad49 and Stogy like this.
  8. Found a worn Edelbrock C3B with the oil fill to the passenger side to replace the Offy 360. Engine and trans almost out, I guess now is the time to replace some gaskets also.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  9. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,291

    jnaki





    Hey 1,

    DeNault's in San Juan Capistrano is closing or is it the Dana Point Ace Hardware on Coast Highway? Those two are institutions in South Orange County!!! DeNaults has many stores all over the South County, but the dinky Ace Hardware store in Dana Point has always been around, run by another local family. That area of Dana Point is going through some drastic redevelopment and big time changes to the whole area. Maybe it was just too small to continue with the city's big plans.

    Both places always had what I was looking for in garage stuff and different fasteners. (Marine stainless or just normal stuff.) It is always nice that those two places had someone that knew the store and could immediately take you to the area that held the missing parts or replacement stainless steel brackets/screws, etc. Being close to the Harbor always helped both businesses, too.

    Jnaki
    Nice ford truck, keep on working on all of your projects, it is fun to follow along with your ideas and construction.
     
    catdad49 and Stogy like this.
  10. Hey Jnaki,

    Both places I like to go to, especially San Juan......they have a good hardware selection. It’s the Ace in Lake Forest, they said it’s just them after a big spike in rent.

    Thanks for the kind words....
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2020
    catdad49, Stogy and jnaki like this.
  11. Well, pulled most of it apart and found some more things to fix. The floor has a sub floor, it has a thick fiberglass floor insert that covers the whole area from the seat forward and it's cut into 3 sections for easy removal. The real floor isn't too bad, just a little hacked up in the trans hump area. I trying to talk myself in from the ledge and just make it water tight and strong...........and NOT redo the whole area. The worst part is the top area of the hump is funky and was tack welded in, whereas the lower area was screwed on sorta like stock. I can't really weld inside the cab as all the carpet is glued to the floor/firewall, so everything is going to be bolt in. I'm going to repair the trans cover and shifter area with the old trans in it, after it's done then remove both engine and trans.
    floor-1.jpg floor-2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2020
    catdad49 and Stogy like this.
  12. Anyone have a floor or car I can get a chunk off of to repair this lower corner.
    floor-3.jpg
     
    Stogy likes this.
  13. Here's the radiator out, looks like a Jim Babb radiator but not 100%.
    radiator-3.jpg
     
    Stogy likes this.
  14. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,658

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    Floor doesn't look to bad, just needs a little finesse, your good at that, Radiator looks like a Babbs I had 3 in my day...
     
    Stogy likes this.
  15. Hey Scott. I'm going to see if I can get it boiled out at Garys Radiator in Fullerton.



    I ordered some more fasteners, seals, more parts.

    Here's the C3B, needs some work but it's solid, it's the right one and it was $50.
    edelbrock-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
    catdad49 likes this.
  16. Ok, I can't leave this alone. I cut off all the extras on it and going to start fresh. The only reason I can think of for having the side flat stock was the sides pulled in when he tried to make more of a hump in the top. Anyways here's the starting point.

    Crude:
    floor-4.jpg
     
  17. If all works out and the floor is strong I might just ditch the sub floor fiberglass part. More pix to come.
     
  18. I have 2 ideas. The first one is to make a brace to go under the floor, over the top of the trans, it will tie both floor sides together and the upper toe board panel and lower trans cover panel will bolt to it. The upper and lower panels being separate and the brace also bolting in. There will be a flange at the top to bolt to the firewall.
    floor-4a.jpg


    The second idea is to brace the toe board area around where it bolts to the floor, making a thicker flange. Re making the top part of the cut out toe board. Both ideas involve making a flange at the top to bolt to the firewall.

    2nd:
    floor-4b.jpg
     
    catdad49 likes this.
  19. I forgot, here's me testing out techniques on the reject gauge panel.
    gauge panel-1.jpg
     
    catdad49 likes this.
  20. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,658

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    I like the 2 piece design
     
  21. I might have to do some bracing under the drivers side flange of the trans cover, after I removed the bar stock it's pretty weak and thin. I might combine the two ideas and make strips for the top sides and use a bolt in brace, still having a 2 piece design.
     
  22. Plan C.
    Buy a motorcycle muffler cone from Cone Engineering, cut it in 1/2 and spread it out. With the 2 halves I have enough to do top and bottom.

    Cone
    exhaust cone-1.jpg

    A start
    floor-7.jpg

    Roughed in
    floor-8.jpg

    Now to test fit and make adjustments and the upper part. The cover is so thin, it's like trying to weld to tissue paper.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2020
  23. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,267

    verde742
    Member

    Just lay a Full large Oxygen bottle down on the ground, and start bending around it...
    use 16 ga metal'

    old men have old ways...
     
    1oldtimer likes this.
  24. I forgot to add this pic awhile ago, it's a date stamp on the underside of the bed cover vinyl. 1-72
    cover underside-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2020
  25. Slow progress, between work, triple digit heat (or close to it) and selling stuff....it will get done. I say this a lot but .......I hate summer.
     
  26. Motor/trans out....it's tight. The radiator has been cleaned and now work on the motor. Gaskets, freeze plugs, different intake, check timing chain, paint maybe. Rebuild (hop up) trans, install headlight relay, replace high beam switch (found an NORS one), replace under dash gauges, paint floor with Por 15 and then finally re install front glass.

    More pics to come........stay tuned :).
     
  27. The ram quit on the engine hoist, right when I want to put it on the stand.........awesome. Well at least it made it over the grille first :).
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  28. Slow going, it's at my moms house, limited tools, dental issues.... I'm almost done with the trans cover, cleaned out the engine cooling system (coat hanger and garden hose), there was some mud/rust but mostly black casting sand or iron from machining. This thing is fresh and clean, it should last a long time after new seals/gaskets.

    1978 target engine I guess they where 4 bolt:
    engine-4.jpg

    It still ran the plastic/fiber cam gear :), there's no wear on it.....it's a wall hanger now.
    engine-5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
  29. Next weekend will have more action as more parts come in.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.

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