I have a 7" grinder that I have cutoff discs for, but since I am recovering from shoulder surgery I am a little apprehensive about using it. I know if I am not careful it will bind and jump-I am thinking this would not be good for my shoulder. I am thinking of getting a pneumatic cutoff saw, I am wondering if this would be a problem to hold onto-compared to my large grinder. My question-is a pneumatic cutoff saw easy to handle.
Think the best thing you can do is get a friend to do it for you and repay the favour when you have healed up.
I was thinking of a small straight one-seems like the angle would give me a little more leverage-wouldn't be constantly fighting it.
Having had a shoulder replacement a few tears ago I would suggest to heed the advice that had already been given, get a friend to do the job. And never pick up that big grinder again, unless you pick it up to take it to the swap meet. HRP
The bumper is welded about two inches too far forward on one side, then twisted back on the side and welded back. Right now I need to get my engine hoist closer to the motor(it is two feet from the motor), so the bumper has to go.
As stated above - get the help and pay back later - and do yourself another favor - get a grinder with paddle switch - says Bubba with scars to prove it Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I am actually being pretty careful. I am used to being in pain(knees back etc)so I am used to automatically avoiding things that I know are going to hurt(like my grinder). I am more apt to get hurt trying to change my shirt or pull up my socks. I'm thinking good day for discovery channel-watch other people fix cars. lol
Can I ask what you all use on your 4" grinders to grind welds with? As a carpenter, I used a 4" grinder with 36 grit paper constantly with wood ... I love them. Now learning to work with metal, I own 3 of them. One with a wire wheel, one with cut off disk and another for grinding. I love them. Problem am having welding body panels, spending way too much time grinding welds off, creating more heat from the grinder then from the welder. I have tried flap disk and a grinding wheel, 36 grit paper ... I bought a variety last week that not tried yet. So to add to this post, what are people using on their grinders for welds?
Do you have an air compressor? I use a small pneumatic die grinder with 3" cutoff wheel. Weighs next to nothing and isn't as brutal as a full on electric 4" grinder.
1. One of the hardest things for a man to do is ask for help, if there is any time in your life to get paid back for a past favor, now is the time. 2. Paddle switches are much safer on a grinder than a toggle switch, having said that, every one of my big grinders have toggle switches. In one way it makes the tool safer because before I pick it up I mentally go through the job at hand, and what my options are if something goes wrong. 3. All of the grinder scars I have were caused not by any design flaw in the tool, but by my own stupidity, as in not thinking before doing. Also, never work tired. 4. I try to avoid air cut-off tools because the lack of torque in an air motor is compensated by an increase in RPM's, in other words, air tools spin much faster than electric tools. More RPM's means the cut-off disk can cause much more damage to you if the disk fails. (There's a picture on the internet of a guy with a cut-off wheel disk stuck in his face, every time I pick up an air cut-off tool, I think of that picture). 5. The best grinder I've ever used is a Metabo, it has internal circuitry that automatically compensates for changes in torque, which means it much safer than the other grinders I have. Best of luck and hope you heal well.
I second the fact that Metabo grinders are the smoothest operating small grinder I have used. In your case, using 4-1/2", thin, slitting wheels from Fastenal, (Predator brand) work great and wear well.
For bodywork welds on 4" grinder, I use a 5" sanding disc with 5" hard plastic backer for a very fast leveling pass. Move fast - dont touch the surrounding panel. Switch to a stone wheel, put the guard back on, they dont cut as fast but dont build as much heat, again dont linger do a light cut and move on, come back for another pass if you need. From there its air tools, small grinders, then onto files. If I was a better bodyman, I wouldnt need the 4" grinder. Its tempting to put a cut off wheel in a 4" grinder and go at it, this puts side load on the thin wheel. Your chance of having one fail are substantially higher with a side load. I dont do it, up to you. I usually keep 3-4 grinders set up with each version of sanding disc, stones, wire wheel etc. I force myself to walk away, so I dont go too fast and build too much heat in any area.
If you must do it yourself here are what I see as your options: 1: torch, if you own one, then clean up. 2: air grinder, as stated above they aren't torque monsters so less chance of shoulder damage if you catch it or lock it up. 3: 4" electric grinder BUT be sure to use the extra handle to help spread the pressure and torque between both hands/arms and shoulders.....
I second this. I have a 4" air grinder and two air die grinders. Use a cutoff wheel on one die grinder, various grind stones on the other.
Before you get to the grinders, I think you need to work on your welding technique. Sorry-humour. A good quality grinding wheel / disc makes a big difference.
I have about 10 grinders between the 2 shops. Bosch are my favorite, smooth, small body allows for good grip, well balanced. Dewalt, its big amp version, workhorse but not real smooth, heavy, unbalanced. Hitachi (3), got these at an industrial auction, all sound like hell when running but they keep chugging along, handle well in use. Plenty of low amp box store specials, useful to keep around loaded with different wheels, when I need to cut one thing. I dont use them for bodywork. Black and Decker industrial (2) great grinder, I scored 2 of these cheap, new old stock from a tool distributor that was clearing out inventory. Probably late 80's models. Black and decker brand has been so degraded no one would touch them, black and decker industrial was dewalt before it split off into separate brand in the early 90's. Ive been buying stones, wheels, discs, cut off wheels from lehigh valley abrasives, or check the inventory at bodyshop supply like tcpglobal when I buy paint.
I never, ever run air grinders or cut-offs at full speed- dangerous and just wipes out your discs. I throttle with index finger between trigger and body, is more accurate, less heat and will usually take off more material than at high speed.
I think something small like rc57 posted will work well if you have a decent air compressor. I like to use electric rather than air as it seems more easily manuevered. The thing about thin cut off wheels is they cut well and you begin to get a slit or notch and want to keep going. Then they grab and jerk your arm. In your situation I would just get some thicker wheels and a small 90 degree grinder. Then they won't tend to grab and jerk.
I've got a really nice 7 inch grinder, somewhere in the recesses of the garage, Too big, heavy and cumbersome to use even when I don't hurt. I've got a blue HF "Hercules" 4--1/2 inch angle grinder that is my go to unit along with a few other 4-1/2 inch grinders It still works your shoulder more than you need. If you have Air to run a Pneumatic unit that is the way I'd go.
I have a 7" grinder that I mounted a shrinking disc on. I could seriously get hurt with that. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
All good suggestions but the "patina patrol" won't like you messing with th front of your Dodge frame! LOL
You might consider some bracing to stabilize that cross member before removing that abomination of welds, if it is in the correct position as is. I have a7 inch Metabo I rarely use because of its extreme weight. I like my Metabo 4 inch units much better. They have a spring /clutch system built in to the retaining nut for the the slicing blade. A light and gingerly application works much better than an aggressive attack to the offending surfaces I find. Air grinders are much lighter and probably would be easier on your shoulder. I have had one rotator cuff surgery and need another on the other shoulder, so I am cognitive to these concerns.
So there’s this, Air powered, great for getting into sticky tight situations and easy to handle. For certain 1 handed operation out of position and no real issues when it jams. Running this on edge over sheet metal bodywork welds gives brain surgery Like precision. But if the weld is high as Mount Everest it’s not the grinder or a better grinder that will fix it. When it comes to bodywork, it’s the high spots that that eat time, set the pace, establish the line. Don’t make high spots with your welding wire.