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Technical Hard brake pedal!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by homer2u, Jul 17, 2020.

  1. homer2u
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 40

    homer2u
    Member

    Just put new power brakes on my 55 Mercury Monterey. GM parts.
    7” booster and 10psi RPV valves. Drums all the way around.
    My pedal only moves about 1/2” to stop the car and it’s not feeling like power. Anybody ever had this issue and what’s the fix?
     
  2. homer2u
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 40

    homer2u
    Member

    This is the unit.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Poppashelby
    Joined: May 26, 2019
    Posts: 4

    Poppashelby

    sounds like to large of bore in master cyl
     
    homer2u likes this.
  4. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,618

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    To big of bore and to small of can!
    What's your pedal ratio?
     
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  5. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,227

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from BHC AZ

    I'm not sure you need RPV's with a highmounted M/cyl and did you check to see if there were valves in the m/cyl port already?
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  6. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,734

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Too much bore and not enough travel.

    A smaller bore M/C will lower your pedal effort, and increase the pedal travel.

    GM made a lot of parts. Exactly what was the original application for the M/C you have there? Is it application matched to the booster, and to the brake pedal ratio?

    Since it’s clearly not OEM, you need to know exactly what’s in there. What bore size on the master? What pedal ratio? What bore on the wheel cylinders?

    A 7” booster isn’t providing much boost. I have a 9” booster (‘63 Impala) with a 1 1/8” bore master (‘70 Chevelle) and 4.5:1 pedal ratio on a disc/drum system. Pedal is a bit too hard, I’m thinking about going down to a 1” bore master.

    You could also consider going to a larger booster, if there’s room for it. That would increase the boost applied to the push on the piston.



    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    That looks like the exact master we put on my 1956 mercury. I am running disc in front though. If there is anything I can do to help let me know. I can look at whatever is on my car (Same car).

    Only issue I have is the brakes do not feel like power right after starting it up and pulling out of the garage. once I get t the sign at the end of my block all feels great. I am wondering if it may be a vacuum deal on mine. Going to get a vacuum gauge and see what I got.

    upload_2020-7-18_9-5-39.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
    homer2u likes this.
  8. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I purchase one of those from a place in LA which was supplied to me specifically for my F100 pickup project.
    I found the same brake pedal problem and also noted that it struggled to stop even at slow speeds.
    Guess where it ended up, in the trash can.
    What a joke...
    I feel the issue is too smaller diameter booster is at least one of the problems I had using it.
    I had disc's up front.

    I got hold of an early Camaro larger booster and master cylinder, bolted it on and never really looked back.
    I am sure my pedal ratio is not perfect but it locks up the front wheels if required and the pedal characteristics reflects a power boosted brake system.

    Pic's attached of the old and the new units on the same vehicle.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,315

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That master cylinder does not have residual valves in it. It is an aftermarket duplicate of a Corvette master cylinder, and they had discs on all four corners, the whole time that version of the master cylinder was in production.

    Residual valves on drums are not just for drain back on an under floor master cylinder. They keep pressure on the seals in the wheel cylinders, keeping them from receding. Modern wheel cylinders don't require that, but he does not have them. Even if he did it would be belt-and-suspenders extra safe.

    The booster is junk.

    A full-size OEM one will fix this.
     
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  10. homer2u
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 40

    homer2u
    Member

    Got it figured out! The master cylinder slug was 3/8” too long. Needed a bit of pedal travel to actuate the booster.
    Thanks for the input folks!
     
    fiftyv8 and 56MercMan like this.
  11. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Glad you got it figured out.
     
  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,895

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would have guessed a FOMOCO rejecting GM parts.
     
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  13. homer2u
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 40

    homer2u
    Member

    No doubt !!!
     

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