Anyone have any experience with these reproduction strombergs from speedway? Looking to ditch my rotten-chester Sent from my SM-G988U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi. I went a different way on the 235 in my 46 coupe. My avitar shows 2 two barrel Weber carbs o a Clifford intake. These have the larger 4 barrel size throats & bases & used 2 offset adapters on top to space the 9" air cleaners apart. All this works great but ain't cheap. The first thing I had to learn with the Webers was to always fold over the bendable tabs that lock the nuts on the linkage as you cannot just tighten these nuts down. Someone should be able to get 4 barrel manifold bases and cut/weld &replace to originals on the manifold if you just want 1 carb. Or get adapter bases. Jimmie
I've got a professionally rebuilt Rochester BB 2 barrel carb that I'll sell for $100.00 plus shipping. It originally came off of a '51 Olds 303 V8...
I appreciate the offer but I'm trying to get away from the leak-chesters. I've had a number of them overthe years and they have all given me issues. Sent from my SM-G988U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was going to run and adapter. Not sure if a 2 barrel would be too much on a stock motor with fenton headers though Sent from my SM-G988U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A weed sprayer with gasoline in it would have better metering than a Rochester "B" Use a Holley 1920, From a Chrysler slant 6. its a bolt-on [except linkage mods] If you have the patience to make an adaptor [and to go hunting ] get an Aisan 2 barrel off an early Toyota Landcruiser FJ4o. [2F engine] It has a vacuum secondary so you will have good road manners
I did what your wanting to do in 1960 when “rebuilt” 94’s were $2.00 with an adapter. After 2 weeks went back to stock. Then tried 2 singles on a Sharp manifold, bought the complete unit for $15.00. 2 months later went back to stock and sold it for $20.00.... stock was the best. If your having trouble with a Rochester, I’d go with a Carter. Same linkage and possibly a better choice. Your Rochester should not have leaked. I’ve had shafts repaired surfaces made flat... good luck
NOT a fan of the Rochester type B (or BC) single barrel carb; but it still should perform better than using the 2-barrel you asked about through a 2->1 adapter. Carter made a lot of type YF carburetors specifically for Chevrolet, here is a list I did a few years ago: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_YF_Chevrolet.htm Some folks like Zenith type 228 carbs from a G.M.C. Jon.
never had an issue with my Rochester on the 235 was I doing something wrong? they leaked a little, not any worse than a stromberg I attributed that to not having a regulator
You maybe should play the lottery Seriously, casting warpage was/is an issue causing the power (economiser) valve to always be open. Power piston is known for sticking in the "on" position, causing the same as above. Jon.
I put a Rochester 2 jet on mine with an adapter to the original manifold, works great, better than either of the 1 barrels I have had. Smooth and easy starting, I also have HEI. Sent from my moto e5 play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was told while researching my carb problems a lot of people have problems with the YF because the they were primarily made for the big 300 Ford engine . Because that beast liked a lot of gas I believe the fuel oriface was almost twice the size than was required for the Chevy engines and would imagine that the rebuild kits had the larger parts also. With that said if anyone has a good carb of any flavor that will work on my Bel Airs 230 cu I would be very interested. Dan
Dan - if you go back to the list I posted earlier, and pick a YF that was designed for the Chevrolet, the calibrations will be correct. The correct orifice fuel valve comes in the better rebuilding kits; but many of the cheaper FLAPS kits do contain the larger orifice for the Ford engines. ASK when purchasing the kit. The problems with the valve are not the fault of the YF, rather those who just replace without knowing what they are doing. Jon.
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