Hello gang, I've recently replaced the Mallory unilite with a Stromberg E-Fire. Did all the manufactures recommendations prior to installation. But I have a problem. As soon as I took off in first gear on the very first ride, I noticed my engine didn't have the same power I used to have. I figured I must have done my timing wrong and that I'll do it again once I come back. Then as the engine warmed up, it was getting worse and started stumbling, then the engine got hot and it was backfiring thought the carb at the touch of the throttle... I manage to get back home, set the timing again (which was pretty much at the right spot in the first place) and basically did the same thing afterwards. I went through everything trice and I can't seem to figure out what's going on. I've talked to Clive in England and he recommended me to try and add a ground wire to the casing of the dizzy to try if maybe I had a bad or weak ground but that didn't work... Stromberg will stand behind its product and replace or rembourse me if I want to which is totally great. I really want to make this unit work as I know these are the best on the market. Anyone here ran into similar issues ?? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
"Departed" - Please don't do that. My post was to try to suggest in the most unobtrusive way (I guess it didn't come off that way) that maybe it's time to get back to basics and install a good stock ignition system and get your car running properly. You have been bitten twice by expensive aftermarket electronic ignition systems. You are not the first and you won't be the last; I have been on here and a bunch of other of the old car boards for a long time, and they are rife with stories like yours. The automobile manufacturers seem to have gotten electronics ignitions right, but it appears he aftermarket is lagging. My suggestion is to talk to Michael Driskel at Third gen Automotive about a distributor. While you're at it, I would also follow "AngleDrive"'s advice about a "Skip's Coil". Hundreds of others have and none have regretted it.
What coil are you running? What plug wires? They're very particular about what wires you can use (HEI style spiral-wound resistance type wires, not solid core original type) and also the type of coil is important too.
I have a 69 Camaro coil brand new. It's a non resistor coil that is recommended to run with external ballast resistor. it has 1.4ohm (1.5 recommended but close enough for comfort) I am not running any resistor and ran a solid wire from my battery to my coil to eliminate any problems. My plug wires are Moroso spiral wound I believe. They are brand new from Speedway. I think I'm going to order a 3 to 2 bolt adaptor and run my 2 bold crab type distributor. I have a very good unit here that I can use. At the same time I'll need to order solid core plug wires, 12V coil if I can't use the one I already have and a 12V resistor... anyone here have recommendations on those two last items? (part numbers or links) Thanks TUBMAN.. I get what you're saying now. my bad. No worries
Are you not running an external resistor with that 1.4 Ohm coil? That's a lot of current across the points, or any ignition module. Ohms law would be 12v / 1.4 Ohm to equal 8.6amps across the points! You can't beat the internally resisted "blue" bosch coils. They're bulletproof.
I don't run an external resistor no. I talked to Clive from Stromberg in England and he recommended that I run this non resistored coil. Supposedly, this module doesn't like ballast resistors...? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are you running a generator? , it seems some electronic ignition don’t like the lower charge rate at low rpms
I currently have a alternator. Thinking about switching over to a generator. The recommended power source on the positive lead is anywhere between 12 and 14 volts.
I run a PerTronix electronic ignition in the original crab housing with their 40011 coil. The coil has 1.5 ohm internal resistance. I use the same Moroso wires. When I first set it up I was running a resistor as someone had recommended, but that caused the spark to jump the rotor and burn through the cap. Took out the resistor, replaced the cap and rotor and now it runs fine.
I had the same problems with 2 units. I finally went back to points. Clive is very helpful I might add.
The Jalopy Journal
