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HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,196

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I like the smaller green lights and I’ve got to say I got nervous even seeing you cut into that blower case lol yikes.

    sure it’ll turn out cool
     
  2. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_0627.JPG
    Incase you can’t see the carb pic I put in the last post. It doesn’t show on my end.


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    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
  3. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    The attached picture needs repaired, it just come up as an error
     
  4. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_1049.JPG
    Only me and Ted will be ok with this. After removing the hammertone(which I normally have good luck with) twice I couldn’t bare to see it not react consistently another time. I had thought of this two-tone before but worry it’s getting redundant. I’m just going to convince myself it falls into the show car time of the BS yarn I’ve spun.
    This little guy can cheer me up though as I tweak it some more. I hope I can age the rivets and have them look ok after install.
    IMG_1050.JPG
    I may put my cool guy Alliance tag below it or inside above the windshield.
    IMG_5336.JPG



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    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
  5. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2020
  6. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    It may be noticeably more yellow than the rest of the gauges but the vacuum gauge had to go. The fuel pressure gauge I showed a while back can go in the engine bay. I read that pressure is pressure so this is gonna be my boost gauge. Hell yeah baby!
    [​IMG]
    So these green lights are tiny. I have to see how bright they’ll be. They’re not as cool as the others. We’ll see I guess.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I’d hate to sound more whiny than I already do but this seems to be a lot harder than they make it out on tv, lol. I sit on a stool with it in my lap and Dremel away for a couple hours the last few nights. Don’t think I’m even close. Then I have to still do the front bearing support plate that I roughed in. Oh, then there’s the intake manifold once I fab that, if it works out.
    I was quite pleased to get some work done on the front seats today to. I’m rethinking the WWII wool I got. I feel they are supposed to be canvas. It would be a big step to finally finish those up. Hopefully soon.


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    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
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  7. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    HHTease.jpg

    :rolleyes:...Updated Teaser...;)

    Fine work on the details Shine...I find Aluminum to be a beautiful metal to work with and it has many visual moods to appreciate...

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/friday-art-show-7-10-20.1199240/#post-13659742

     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

  9. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,196

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I think for their intended placement the new smaller lights will blend in better and not be so intrusive.

    blowers looking good!
     
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  10. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Ugh! 36 drive shaft exhaust would be wicked! Why get rid of it?
     
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  11. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_1062.JPG
    Don’t worry though Matt. I’m way too invested in my stainless stepped header, to merger collector, to extended drive shaft tubes.
    Funny I was plotting what color to paint the 36 portion like two days ago.




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    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
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  12. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

  13. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Rattle can chrome for the win! Or in this case silver header paint.
     
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  14. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    HHk.jpg


    Hubba2020V2j.jpg

     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
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  15. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Going to have to slap a little filler on the backs of these. Even though I’m hanging the canvas pouch’s over the waviest area. Haven’t quite finished the base rocking mechanisms yet. The oil canning seems under control now which is a big win.
    And I almost forgot to check the alignment of the front covers. I had to do a fair amount of sculpting to bring them close. I was lucky I had not taken too much off of either piece to make it still work.
    [​IMG]
    When my friend Dennis sends my rear cover back I’ll most likely leave it as is.


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  16. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    That looks lovely!
    JB weld works pretty good for filler on aluminum if that's what the seats are made outta, I don't remember
     
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  17. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Seats are steel, and cheap. Need 12 more small dome head 3/16 hot rivets to put mounts on. Lots of detail work gonna happen to them to get the look right.
    I whimped out tonight and just did so head scratching with the seats and put this little fella back together.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    It’s fresh but I’ll dull it up at some point. I don’t think the cancellation wheel will work on my column. You know with the bell and all what would it roll on?




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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2020
  18. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMG_1875AAnu.jpg

    :rolleyes:...I was looking at this polarizing reflection in the Hotrod Past and noted that these two revered icons have both the rounded and vee'd meeting of licks highlighting a subtle difference that's easy to overlook...it truly is a Style in Graphic Art that was gracing select Racers of the time...Shocking, Bold, Cool all at once...and I am sure many saw those Licks move forward quickly taking away the checkered flag on many occasions...

    Glad your Considering these unique aspects of a period vibe that were just part of what was...

    Your inspired period build gives me the opportunity to lay down a graphic as I would have in 1948...I'm not the Berardini Artist but they certainly influenced what I have done on many occasions...

    Credit to Photographer, Owner
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2020
  19. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I suppose some would find this entire build a peculiar blend of race and street. I think it will work out though. @dumprat mentioned not running a wooden floor. I actually love wood floors. Unfortunately due to putting in the 34s X member there is no space to drop a piece of plywood down flush with my homemade subrails. I also cant use a 32 under seat dished panel either, sad. I am making the floor out of steel but contemplating the toe board as a separate piece, maybe wood or aluminum. I love when people make those angled metal strips to screw the toe and floor boards together. Under the car from the front seat back I will mimic a 32 3w floor’s bead pattern. In front I don’t know yet.
    I got this carpet(rug) way back in the thread.
    [​IMG]
    I was torn on covering the wood with it before it dawned on me that I can’t use wood. I will remove the green border(that matches the body color well) then put it back on when the carpet shape matches the floor. Giving that finished show car feel. I think it ties the dash/steering to the exterior some.
    You have to understand that my theory of this car being hot rod’d in 46. It should appear as part of that modernization dealio. Like the column shift, 40 wheel, heater, turn signal, plus I have that cool Guide dimmable rear view mirror. I think it’s to cumbersome for the chopped windshield now. If you remember I got the idea for the two tone metallic from 40 Deluxe interiors.
    [​IMG]
    The body color really looks like this 46 Lincoln color too, total accident.
    [​IMG]
    Currently I’m considering partial aluminum door panels. That leave the the some of the green and the holes I put along the top exposed.
    [​IMG]
    Or maybe lids/filler panels for the big rectangular holes and a map pouch over the middle one? Im using using the original rope pull handle hardware but with a new rope cover in leather or olive canvas.
    I can’t seem to justify spending on garnish moldings that I don’t have. I’ve shopped for a long time but with cutting and wanting them chrome.. I’ve ruled against it. Maybe some day far, far, away. I will however entertain making my own out of Aluminum. I want to make AL sill plates as well. This can hide that my floor is not factory ford.

    If this was a 50s build I would do the body color and salt licks in the the dash/steering colors like immediately.
    I like so many others didn’t realize metallic paint went so far back. I tend to see the drab solids as a better choice when faking this car’s rebirth.




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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
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  20. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    I think you might be selling it short not painting the exterior the same metallic as the bits you have already done.
    Wood is easy for floors, I had to ditch mine and go with tin to save valuable interior room. Every inch counts.
     
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  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    This is the best I could come up with so far for a pivot to mount the seat bottom on. I struggle with the hex drive head. I hope it seems aviation in spirit. I want some sort of coupler lock pins in front that I can remove tool-less. Then I can take the seat out fast. For what reason I don’t know. Maybe to get a guitar amplifier in back seat.
    [​IMG]
    The side of the seat frames will need a support plate welded on the inside to minimize flex. Washers don’t seem enough. I think on the outsides is ok.
    The lower corner plate gets riveted on and holds the universal bear claw door latch. It also is the seat belt mount.
    [​IMG]
    Which appears week if only bolted to the seat sheet metal. My plan is to bolt it through the latch. Which in essence once locked down is actually holding the stronger floor mount I am planning.
    I take the safety seriously but I fear any real crash in this kinda car and you’ll be dead anyway. So always drive defensively as hell.


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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  22. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_1087.JPG
    Still figuring things out. Like if I should make the padded piece less bulky. It is comfy enough to watch a decent movie with a trip or two to the snack bar. It seems to take away from the aviation vibe I’m after. I suspect the olive paint and upholstery will help.
    IMG_1088.JPG
    I thought I had a couple of ways to make the adjustable base mechanism. Now I can’t seem to invent something yet. I almost have a new idea but need to work it out. Kinda bummed that whatever I do will probably require a lever on each side unless I really turn my brain on.



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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  23. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...The Seat pad apart from color looks like a parachute...pass...the lever could be attached to a rod with pins on both sides that meet multi holed tracks or rod with tabs that actuate spring loaded pins. I guess there are number vintage setups that may fit the bill and I can't imagine that hardware being highly priced which would be a bonus...
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  24. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I initially drew up plates for each side of the set base with multiple holes at a curve to match the swing of the base. With the knob just pulling out a spring loaded pin. But once I set my mind on the knob being a lever at this angle I lost my way. The I was thinking of a plate with a few cogs or notches that catch on a round shank at the end of a plate that is pivot by the lever/knob. Spring tension holding it in a cog. I can’t figure the angle or how the seat would resist pivoting down.
    Thanks Steve, embracing the parachute pad look when I re-cover it could be the ticket. I’ve mentioned that I investigated using the actual wwii parachute packs material for the base correct. I think it was a size and money issue. I need to think less fighter pilot. I’m not fooling anyone that they came from a P-47. I just need it to look like they came from something USAF. Like a C-47.




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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  25. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since you will have Green primered pieces with an aviation inspiration involved, drab color for fabric seems very fitting. Are there going to be back pads as well? I see the back is not adjustable...I mean my bench is fixed both is back and fwd/aft so it's like many Hotrods fit to the Driver...that does come with shortcomings...
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  26. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    @Stogy the backs are set at the same angle as my daily. I wrote down the degree finder specs along time ago when I made the side pieces. It will probably end up a little steeper when you take hot rod rake into account.
    The reason I am making the bases pivot is because that’s how they where as theater seats. Since they already had a pivot I figured why not. Another reason is my wife likes a lame chair like seating position and I prefer a race car feel. Since the seats are to be the same I thought it be cool.
    Since this thread is so ridiculously long I keep reposting images. Like this wwii sleeping bag I got to cut up for covering the seats.
    IMG_5540.JPG
    IMG_5539.JPG
    I also have a few pup tents but the canvas doesn’t seem to be thick enough or the correct weave, although that’s not what they call it.
    The backs have the original curved wood and wool batting. I will stain where you see through the dimple holes. I wanted the sleeping bag wool on the backs at least. Canvas would suit the base better.



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  27. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @Runnin shine, I did a bolder garage version of your Hotrod...no change to anything but balance of tones...I will post it momentarily...If you want it gone just say so...as an Artist I get excited with these visualizations...and last night was no exception...I again share this unique journey your taking us on...it's fun, educational, bursting with vision and pride. Thank You...for the inspiration that helps drive my artistic side...;)
     
  28. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I wouldn’t mind a version of it out of my filthy garage.


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  29. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Blocked by a blanketed motor...I think...let me get that back to the Lakes...;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
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  30. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hubba2020V2n.jpg

    :rolleyes:...In the meantime you're on a roll so here's another...;)

    I have to spend some time filling in the missing front end for the move out of the garage...

     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
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