Asking for an acquaintance....looking at a resto-mod 33 Chev with a cracked original 6 cylinder block. Anyone know what would be involved with bolting up a later 216/235 to the stock power train? My understanding is the 29 to 36 engines were significantly different. Yea, I know... I'd drop a SBC/5 spd in it too....
if I remember right, it can be done with the right combination of pre war, original parts. the pedals are one of the big concerns in making the swop work.
The mounts are completely different, so you'll have to figure that part out. You'll need a '38-'47 Chev or GMC truck bellhousing if you're going to use the stock trans., which isn't the stoutest unit.
yes. a long long time ago, i was 15, trying to put a 235 in a 36. had no skills at that time and just found another 216 to make it easy
Dave’s blogspot confirms what 302GMC wrote. https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y7xEKDFS...DidzB2wkAgu3j7zFe2sW6ACLcBGAs/s1600/VCCA3.jpg
There is an article in the Patrick’s antique auto parts Site, which addresses swapping out stove bolts between years. I did not check wether or not Patrick’s is still in business but it can’t hurt to look.
@whtbaron The distance between us is significant......but I am removing a 1953 full pressure lube 235 (standard with PG in ‘53) From my 1937 Chevy Coupe. The complete engine, trans, bell housing clutch flywheel etc (along with a new in the box clutch and pressure plate assembly) is available. Also the generator and newly rebuilt starter are with it. Ready to run. I bought this ‘37 last year from an avid AACA member who used it on their 800 to 1000 mile tours many times over the years. It was overhauled a number of years ago, runs well, but the seller said “it does use a little oil”. I don’t know exactly what that means, but I did find the side cover was leaking at the lower rear corner and I replaced that gasket. By the way, the ‘53 235s used the earlier style two stud valve cover and look, at a glance, like a 216. Using that was intentional on the part of the PO who didn’t want to raise the hackles of his fellow AACA members, some of whom are purists. If interested in discussing possibilities regarding this drivetrain (also have the complete rear end and torque tube)...send me a private message. Ray
Patrick’s is out of business and Patrick Dykes is deceased. Unless his son or someone has reopened the business.
Thanks for the offer but I really don't know this guy very well... I believe he's in upstate NY but I would be reluctant to provide leads to other Hamber's in case it all goes south. I do know he was negotiating a deal on an early 6 on another page.
I could be wrong, I haven't messed with a 235 6 cylinder for a half century but if memory is correct the ones with the two studs retaining the valve cover are not full pressure lubrication, they still used dippers on the connecting rods. From memory 1953 had two engines, the two stud rocker cover, that was the stick shift engine with dippers while the Powerglide engines had four 1/4-20 screws retaining the rocker cover, that was the one with full pressure lubrication to the rod bearings. By 1954 all the engines were full pressure lubrication.
Like I say, I really don't know this guy (just ran into him in an old car chat) so I'm reluctant to act as a go between so I'll let him know what I've found and see where it goes from there.
'53 all 3 engines have 2 nuts holding it. The '53 Powerglide 235 the only pressure motor with a 3 screw oil distributor on the side of the block.
I am sorry to say you are mistaken about the valve cover issue. ALL 1953 Chevy sixes, 216 (pickups), 235 dipper and 235 full pressure lube with insertbearings had the 2 stud hold down on the valve cover. This isn’t my first rodeo on earlier Chevy sixes. I had several of them, one was a ‘51 Bel Air with Powerglide which was equipped a 235 dipper. I abused that poor engine and when it went south, I bought a ‘53 Powerglide engine straight from the car it came in. You are correct that the 1954 models all got the the four perimeter screws common to the end of production. That is not the extent of my experience with them in those days or since, but it should be sufficient. Ray
I appreciate your caution, but you need not worry how a deal may go on my account. I have bought and sold long distance several times and accept responsibility for outcomes. Ray
Seems to be one of those guys... I keep telling him what he's up against, but he isn't listening. I'm guessing it will be another project car that goes up for sale. Thanks for your help guys.
The head/ valve cover differences got me so confused (especially as we had a bit of a mix'n'match with Australian models), the only way to know if you had a full-pressure job was to look at the side covers- tall, with spark plug holes- dipper, short= full pressure.
Usually holds true ... unless you have a '50-'52 Powerglide engine, which has a short cover & poured bearings.
Ok, so yes, 37 to 62 engines are very similar, but the original post was about a 33 with a 207. My first suggestion was a V-8 swap... not happening. My 2nd suggestion was a full oiler 235, but he has found a "deal" on a full babbit 216 with a tranny ( probably the one positive in this narrative) so that's where he's going. At least if he sorts out the motor mount and clutch linkages, he'll be set up for an easy swap to a 235 next time around.
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