Projects fixing a smashed 31 model A pickup cab.

seat back now fits under the wood brace and rests against the back boards like the original. seat is comfortable for me. not sure how we will finish the upholstery off on the shortened cushion yet.

 

last project before priming and painting the sub panels and undersides, is fitting the slat wood. I have 3 sizes of strips do to trying to get the most out of the wood I "milled". my plan will be to rip one of the 1 1/2" strips down to 1 1/4" to give me even amounts so I can space them symmetrically . I think I have the math right?

 

Unbelievable, is there anything you can't do???
Beside painting wheels RED!

 

these will be trimmed to fit, sanded and varnished before installation.

 

A jack of all trades

 

Ted, not enough wood from the killer tree for the bed?
I wonder how often the Slacker will get asked about servicing someone’s garage door? I suppose the red rims will let them know it’s a real hot rod not a wealthy executive’s luxury car(33 Coupe).


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I am so proud of this relative, unlike some others. He he


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we have two chunks of wood left for the bed. not sure how we will use them, maybe wood bed strips over a steel floor or maybe bed rail type racks. I think what ever we find for a bed will dictate how we go

 

today I removed all the top wood and cut the slats to length. since the new plan is to finish all the wood that will be exposed I removed the paint from the rear beam and sanded it down. I also removed the seat riser and seat back boards.

 

I then stood the truck up on it's firewall so I could paint the sills top and bottom. I sanded and used a cup brush to clean it up. I also put spot tacks in the bottom lips of the outer panels I made to attach them to the inner panels. I then cleaned up all the welds and under sides

 

after thoroughly cleaning I sprayed a polyurethane 2k frame/chassis blacken the sills and undersides. I then painted the under side of the cowl [inside of original tank] white, which makes it easier to see when working under the dash later. I also paint ed the seat riser, the wood floor board and the pan that goes under the seat.

 

notice how bright the white makes the under side look. really helps and is worth the effort.

 

I went through each slat and chose a "good" side to face down. these boards have knots, weird grain and worm holes which should give the truck a little more character. I then sanded all the boards with 180 grit on my DA. I also softened the corners of the slats. with all the fans running in the shop I now have a thorough coating of red oak dust on everything.

 

I removed the wood from the latch posts and sanded and painted the back sides.

 

Fun thread to catch up on. Great work saving another old Ford!

 

anybody know what/how the rear window is attached and sealed?

 

I don't know how to do it, and neither of the books I have show it either. If nobody comes along soon, I'd suggest going over to the Fordbarn and asking. Good luck.

 

Ted, I thought they were held in like the 32-34. With a steel flange that screws down around the entire window squeezing the glass in a rubber seal that’s goes over the outside edge of said piece of glass?

This looks like my 32s so I think I’m correct.



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Mine is held in like Runnin Shine says. The inside frame pinches the window and gasket.

 

They use a frame as shown above. My glass has a rubber channel seal along the edge and just held in place with the frame. I’m sure I got the seal from one of the Model A parts places, but don’t recall as it’s been 33 years since I put it in.


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any insulation going in the cab ted? good oppertunity to upgrade with modern safety glass.!

 

thanks for the replies, seeing the special frame makes sense. I have a Tudor frame and it seamed a questionable way to hold it in. to use the Tudor one I would have to build a wood frame/sill around the opening to hold the glass in place. we need to find the right frame.
Chris there will be no insulation, just a rugged hot rod truck. the glass will be all new laminate glass. Charlie is having the glass cut this week.
again thanks for the speedy replies.

 

On the corners there are backing pieces of just flat sheet metal at the radii.


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Super thread, Ted. Just getting to the forming and replacement of sub frame and small pieces/patch panels in my '27 tub. Your methods are excellent, as much of the available 'repair panels' are crude and ill fitting.
Thanks for so much detail and many pics! "Slackers", indeed...

 

tonight I flipped the cab back up right, and put the post wood back in. I then drilled for the hardware that holds it into the post.

 

after I tightened all the bolts I sanded the exposed wood so it can be varnished.

 

the consensus is to put all the top wood together with glue and screws, THEN varnish it. this is to keep varnish away from the glue joints. I might just try to get some varnish on the end grain first.
this is what Charlie bought for this project. I never used rustoleum brand spar varnish and look forward to see how it hold up.

 

Nice progress, great job !

 

first coat of varnish on the pieces that will not be glued. instructions did not say to thin the first coat. it brushed on fine, a little thinner than the other brand I have used. they recommend 3 coats, applied between 8 and 12 hours apart. if longer than 12 hours it must be sanded before applying the next coat. I plan to sand before the last coat.