Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Model A install bear claw latches design #7

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lostone, Jun 27, 2020.

  1. fiftyv8, Those gadgets in the last photo I posted are just inside door handle mechanisms. They mount on the inner door panel and the inside handle mounts on the post. Stock form they have a flat bar going from it to the door latch unit. On this project it was just a starting point being the motion needed to pull the cable in use was not as needed. I did some bench work and made it do what I needed. Here's the part numbers for both sides out of there catalog.
    3698877. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47-55 Left side for inside handle (original 52-55). 16.341 -.15 |Door Handles| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $20.50 EA 3698878. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47-55 Right side for inside handle (original 52- 55). 16.341 -.15 |Door Handles| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $20.50 EA
     
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  2. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I've been building the parts for the other door at this point while its still easy for me to get to this side for measurements and fit. But I should be back to this side and posting pics this weekend !

    I appreciate the following and the feedback !!
     
  3. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 574

    OFT
    Member

    I have been following this also. I want too add bear claw latches to my 29 AA. Keep up the good work and keep us updated
     
    lostone likes this.
  4. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I'm moving slow, the temps are high and my energy low! Lol

    Anyway I've been figuring out a way to use the lock mechanism.

    The simplest is to use a key flob activated or hidden switch solenoid.

    In the pics I've set this up using a piece of brazing rod as a mock up, in real life I'd use all thread. On the lock lever I'd use a carb adjuster banjo like you find on some of the old carbs like the mopar kick downs.

    I would also have it go up thru the top door molding this way I could add a door lock knob.

    Now this would let me lock ans unlock the door manually while I'm in the car. But id have to use the hidden button or key flob to lock and unlock the door from the outside.

    Option 2, add a standard outside door lock like most older vehicle's in the door and then use a bicycle brake cable from the door lock down under window to latch lock. Then you'd have to use a key to lock or unlock.

    Here some pics...
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad and fiftyv8 like this.
  5. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Ok got busy doing a well over due and very long honey do list, still plenty left! But I got a chance to chase down some small pieces I need to move along.

    Here's a pic of these pieces and I'm figuring out my next moves. So hopefully this weekend I'll have an update with actual work done!!
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad likes this.
  6. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Its 11:30 p.m. when I walked out the shop tonight.

    Now that I had some much needed pieces to play with I just had to find out if my plan had any real merit and I'm happy to say yes!!

    Most I've seen thats done this use rods and a rocker setup to get around the glass from the outside door handle to the latch. I didn't like that so I decided on cable. Cable will easily flex around the glass too.

    So I decided to use bicycle cable parts. This allows me to fine tune the slack and feel of the handle.

    Anyway here are some pics. 1 shows the little bracket I made to hold the cable adjuster. The others show the location for the bracket and the angle I'm mounting it. Also a pic to show how nicely the cable will lay out of the way once I'm done.
     

    Attached Files:

    fiftyv8 likes this.
  7. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 115

    Redrodguy
    Member

    lostone likes this.
  8. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Don't give up!! Just a quick update...

    I had a couple set backs, 1- on the cable adjuster end I went to tig and tack the nut to the little square bracket I built. Which went fine but as I lifted the welding helmet I noticed the threaded adjuster just kinda oozed out of the nut...... Yep aluminum!!

    So checked locally and all here are aluminum so off to ebay to find steel ones, found some and they're ordered.

    Set back 2- waiting on outside door handles ! I've ordered several things and it seems like pulling teeth to get anything delivered in a timely fashion from California...

    So this thing isn't over just on hiatus until I can get parts delivered !!
     
    brEad likes this.
  9. Bert Kollar
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,234

    Bert Kollar
    Member

     
  10. Bert Kollar
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,234

    Bert Kollar
    Member

    Not to hijack he post but I have a Last Refuge body with bear claws which are fine but I have no room to install dove tails I need a way to align the dors any suggestions
     
  11. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Ok I got my door handles in and started working on the outside door handle assembly.

    I built a lever out of 1/4" thick steel strap. I drilled the hole for the cable end then I took a hacksaw and cut the slot for the cable.

    Once I got the slot angles like I wanted them I came back with my 4" grinder with the thin cut off wheel and went back thru the slot to widen it enough for the cable to fit in.

    I then mocked it all up on the door latch to see how well it worked and it worked great! Maybe too great. I may shorten the lever a bit as I would like a little more handle travel before releasing the latch.

    Next I will start on the cable end bracket for the outside door handle now.

    Also note, that my home built lever is just in rough stage. Once I get happy with length and angles I'll finish adding a locking screw and actually making it smaller and lighter.

    The idea of using cable instead of rods and levers is working out really well !

    Here are a few pics !!
     

    Attached Files:

    fiftyv8, brEad and Redrodguy like this.
  12. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas


    Do you have any pics ? Like to see the door jam area on both door and body with door open and then an inside pic with door closed to see how much room between door and jamb...
     
    Redrodguy and fiftyv8 like this.
  13. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Part 2:

    Ok for those following this thread above I mentioned that the latch was a little to fast to open for me and that I may shorten the lever to slow it down well I decided to go ahead and build a new lever that was shorter since I was already at this stage anyway and the fact I had to build one for the other door anyway.

    I actually shortened the throw between the rod cable hole and the square handle hole by just over an 1/8" and I narrowed the width (more on this later).

    I started building both at the same time. Here are some pics....

    Also once I'm happy I'll post the measurements to save you gents some work figuring out the lengths!!
     

    Attached Files:

    Redrodguy, fiftyv8 and brEad like this.
  14. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    A little further tonight.

    I have one lever done and I tried it and I like the shorter lever much better. So now I will finish the other lever and then start on the door handle bracket.

    A pic of the original lever, the new roughed lever and the completed lever. You can see how much smaller I made it.

    Also thru in a pic of my hamb approved (hokey ass) set up to try the brackets, levers, and handles and let you see how nice the cable is going to work.

    Hope you guys enjoy!
     

    Attached Files:

    Redrodguy, fiftyv8 and brEad like this.
  15. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Keep at it and thanks again for sharing your journey.
     
  16. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    A bit further tonight... Actually just basically making parts...

    I've gotten the cable brackets made that go on the door on the door handle side about done BUT I came to a stand still there as I've managed to lose the 6mx1.0 nuts I bought last week for them.

    In one of the pics are the multi pieces I've made tonight. The little thin "J" looking tabs will go on the bottom of the handle bracket to keep the cable in the bracket. In fact in 1 of the pics you can see the bracket with the J on it and the cable in the bracket.

    Another pic shows the door and the other bracket, notice the 2 holes in the door? Once I finish those brackets I will plug weld them to the inside the door. They will hold the end of the cable in place.

    So with most of the parts made now I'm almost down to installing parts and buying some more damn nuts to finish the brackets and then fine tuning.
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad and fiftyv8 like this.
  17. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 115

    Redrodguy
    Member

    Looks great - keep up the good work!


    P.S. - Hope you find your nuts...
    Did you check your wife's purse?
    LOL
     
    brEad likes this.
  18. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Got further along.

    Went and bought new nuts (I keep those away from the girlfriend ;)) and got them welded on and the door handle side bracket done.

    Pic 1 shows the outside door bracket all ready to go, pic 2 shows it welded on in the door.

    Pic 3 shows the cable Assembly put together on the outside door handle. Notice the little J I made welded to the lever and how it holds the cable in proper position. I'm really happy so far !!

    Some pics .
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad likes this.
  19. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Now the next thing was mock up to see how all this works together and how well it works together.

    So in pic 1 you can see roughly how it all goes together and how it gives me mucho flexibility inside the door for glass, locking solenoids, glass tracks etc.

    Pic 2 is a close up giving you a better view and understanding.

    Pic 3 shows door handle closed and pic 4 shows door handle location the moment it breaks the latch open. I can live with that !!

    On with the pics!
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad and pprather like this.
  20. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    So a couple more things to do on list:

    Add a spring to help return latch to 100% locked position (already have plan)

    Add a stop so that the handle won't turn backwards (again have idea)

    Then I will tackle the inside door handle.
     
  21. By design, the bear claw style latches act as both the dovetail and the latch.

    Nice work lostone on the small brackets and cable to operate the latch.

    Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
     
    brEad likes this.
  22. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Thanks 38chevy454 !

    Bert he is right, the latch "shouldn't" need any other help to locate or hold door.

    This is the exact reason I put my latches in the middle of the door instead of on the bottom of the door like I've seen many people do.
     
  23. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I am loving it.
    Great work and good results.
     
  24. gearhead9663
    Joined: Aug 28, 2008
    Posts: 39

    gearhead9663
    Member

    I did these a little closer to the top on a model a pickup. Also stole an idea from jeep tj hardtop doors, 1/4" rod from stock outside handle down below window at lowest position into a metal block with setscrews and back up the inside to the latch with a spring to help move stock back into position. Hope this helps 20200817_125127.jpeg 20200817_125141.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G975U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    brEad and fiftyv8 like this.
  25. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Pretty much done now with the outside handle arrangement.

    Built a stop for the outside handle lever to stop on. In pic 1 you can see its just a 1/4" piece of strap welded to the back plate I made for the latch assembly. Just bolted it on a 2 lite cuts with a hand file allowed me to put the door handle at the closed position I wanted!

    In pic 2 you can see how the lever interacts with the stop on the back plate.
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad likes this.
  26. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Got it reassembled and with it together you can see how the handle/lever rests against the stop, pic 1.

    Next up was the spring seat for the latch cable end. A piece of tin, a couple holes, some bending and I had a spring seat, pic 2.

    In the next couple pics you can see total assembly and how it all comes and works together. I love the feel and flexibility it gives me in the door.

    Now comes the inside door handle and installing the outside handle on the other door!!
     

    Attached Files:

  27. Great job on the tech and the explanation here! I really like your avatar pic as well.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.