I’ve read a bunch of threads on this topic but I’m still confused on what to use... so I’d rather ask. I need to prime my Model A roadster. I would like to use a primer that will seal it effectively as I’m not planning on painting it in the very near future, but I don’t want it in bare metal. Everything is in bare metal with the exception of some of the floor pans, the firewall and the cowl, they’re in an old primer. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I love this stuff https://tamcopaint.com/collections/primers/products/dtm-primer Direct to metal, sealing abilities and super high build, yet easy sanding https://tamcopaint.com/collections/primers/products/dta-epoxy this if it will be exposed to the elements
Assuming you properly prep the metal I would apply 2 coats of epoxy primer followed with approx. 3 coats of urethane primer filler all mixed and applied according to the manufacturers directions. This will allow a fair amount of block sanding later depending on the level of perfection/imperfection you require. Keep it out of weather though as primer is not recommended as a finish coat. Any well established national brand of automotive finish products can supply epoxy and urethane. If not, move on.
get a quart of this and a brush, and have at it. When you get tired of it, strip it off, do the prep and paint work right. But that could be years from now, and you want to get on the road soon.
But Jim, i don't believe that product held up with desirable results to a 20,000 hour salt spray and the nuclear expanded UV rays get some DTM urethane. Shoot the bitch and enjoy it man. Or like squirrel said, throw some rustoleum on there. I mean, unless this is a ridler contestant, or up for the next AMBR
Any panels that are going to sit for extended periods I dry sand, wipe down with deoxideine, neutralize and hit it with acrylic primer. A quick denib dry and hit with any old acrylic paint on hand or go to paint store and buy surplus stock. The acrylic will stop it from flash rusting for years and it's easy to sand and coat properly when ready. Most primers alone, be they single coat or urethane will absorb moisture eventually. That's why I slather some acrylic over it.
Not too sure about the laws where you are, but I have always tried to stick with one company's products when it comes to paint. Personally, I like PPG - my current project will use their Concept single stage, two component top coat. If you go to their web site, they have all of the sealers and primers listed. On the frame, I use a totally different product / system - I get as much of the rust and crap off as I can, make any repairs and then use POR 15 etching primer on any fresh metal and POR 15 after that, over everything. While the POR 15 is still "wet" (you can drag your finger), I put on a coat of POR "Tie Coat Primer". Finally, once it has cured ( a few days) I put on a coat of POR Chassis Black. I live in a rust zone, so I take extra care when coating any metal parts.
The fastest and cheapest way is with the Rustoleum and a brush, its probably good for 2-3 years. 3 or 4 years ago I would have preferred an anti rust paint from a local farm store, but the epa has changed the formulas so much they are now pretty ineffective. Sadly, when I redid my coupe this year, I broke down and painted it with acrylic enamel, $250 for just the paint and needed supplies. Gene
rustoleum rusty metal primer has worked well. its comes in quarts. it will seal the metal and lasts. its cheap and fills the rusty metal. some people never paint because they like the look so much.
If you’re dealing with heavily rusted metal, this Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer with anti-rust properties is the one for you. It provides a protective layer that will ward off the present and future rust issues.
This is like asking which oil to use. You’ll get a thousand different answers. The majority will probably involve an epoxy, do the body work then some type of filler primer. Then seal it with epoxy. Then you get the debate started of doing body work over epoxy. Then the polyester Vs urethane guys get started. Then someone mentions tractor stuff. The first question is the desired result wanted. If it’s a beater, just do whatever For me personally I like a quality epoxy over bare metal. Follow the tech sheet instructions, not the guy that sells you the stuffs instructions. Then body work. The next step can be done with a urethane, polyester or a high build epoxy. Which ever you choose, follow the tech sheets instructions. I then use a sealer before spraying color. Again you have choices. I like epoxy. I’ll let it dry enough I can sand any specs out before top coating.
I like Southern Polyurethanes. They have Epoxy that is great to work with. Little picky on colder temperatures, But the tech help and shipping is out of this world. They will bend over backward to help you. I've always had good results. There are a bunch of threads here on the HAMB talking about them.
The self etching primer , like they use on aluminum aircraft skin, will protect the metal against rust. Regular primer will allow rust to form. That's my experience, why not just paint it ?
I don't mess around when it comes to selecting the best quality materials for paint and body. There is no aspect of your build that is as time consuming and labor intensive as body and paint. If I spend a lot of time on the body to make it right, the last thing I want is for the job to be poor quality because I cheaped out and bought lousy materials. House of Kolor KD3000 will do all you need. It can be used as a medium or high build prime, or reduced 4:1 for a sealer. It's not egregiously expensive either.
Dry sand, wipe it down with degreaser and hit it with DP90 primer sealer and forget about it. If you use the Rust-oleum, it can be thinned with Mineral Spirits and sprayed with a cheap Harbor Freight gun for a nice finish. As Squirrel mentioned, buys you time till ready to do it right!
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