Happy 4th oof July to you all, Figured I have the day off I will work on the car, I am having some issues with the plugs fouling and it running rich. The points have been adjusted to .20 the coil has been changed to an NAPA Echlin without external resistor new plug wires and plugs. The carb has been cleaned and rebuilt. (Including accelerated pump) And I am still fouling the Autolite 295s after a 100 mile trip with new plugs there also is hesitation mid throttle range but when you accelerate to higher speed it seems to quit. It is a bone stock 6v system and a bone stock carb and manifolds. The fuel pump was replaced as well. Has me quite stumped. And need some assistance. thanks for all the help Noah
Try looking how the throttle plate shaft fits in the bore hole in the carb base . Mine was so bad that adjusting the mixture screw so it ran ok but the plugs would foul .I finally used one off a slant six fork lift .
Engine has been rebuilt 5,000 miles ago, so no oil being used I will get a pic of plug, but it’s a very dry soot the electrode and tip seem to be clear of the black soot but all around it is black.
Should I maybe try a hotter plug? I’ve red up on this and some people have good results some people say it can cause pre-ignition and destroy and engine. I am getting a nice blue spark that arcs more than an inch if that rules anything out
Your air to fuel ratio is way out Running far to rich. Carter BB ? But what kinda shape is it in? Advance your timing to highest vacuum and back off slightly. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it to see whats happening? Are you putsin around and idling a lot? Are you running down highway at 60 mph for a half-hour to get this engine running at temp? What tstat are you running, 160 is way cold if tgats what our doing.
Stromberg bxv-3 Previous owner said he reamed the idle jet to see if that would fix the problem... 180 thermostat I cruise around 35 so I keep the rpms up
Get a carter BB sized for your engine. 35 mph. Try 55 to 60 for 50 miles. Get another carb, even a Langdon progressive 2bbl would be better.
For carburetor tuning, for getting a baseline, want to use the standard heat range plug. A hotter spark plug is not the "fix" for a carburetor out of calibration. Study the carburetor manual and learn how the different circuits operate and work together. Verify fuel pump pressure is in spec, float height and fuel height, and set your jetting on the highway.
Thanks is the stromberg a carb that is looked down on? Looking through my manual I have read that this was original to the engine. Is there anyone out there that has an idea where to get a carter 1bbl? Or uses them on a stock flat 6
Also with fluid drive, would we run into issues with a dash pot to prevent stalling as engine rpms? this is the one I am looking at.
PM Hitek on here. He can help you out with this. Stromberg arent bad, but the Carter BB is a good carb too. Something is wrong with your carb. Whats the compression like on your engine? Have you tested It? What is vacuum gauge saying? Which trans do you have, the 4 spd semi auto? You simply are running rich, but why is the dilemma.
Reaming out the idle jet could make it idle very rich. I'm not sure what part the guy reamed out, but reaming out most passages in a carb would allow extra fuel into the motor. Was the previous owner the guy that had the motor rebuilt? This issue may not be a new development, but one that has been with the motor for a long time, like since he reamed out the carb part. Gene
Reaming out the Idle jet would cause it to run richer. I'm not sure if you can do anything with the idle air bleed on that one to lean it out. They could be plugged a bit though. Especially if the car sat for a while. It's been over 50 since I rebuilt one of those carbs so the systems in one are totally vague now but the ones we rebuilt then worked pretty good. Sounds like what the car really needs is to quit piddle assing around town and get out on the road and run at 55 or 60 or better for ten of fifteen miles.
]That’s what I just did this weekend a 150 trip going 55-60 Does this mean that the carb is toast? The reaming was done before the motor was overhauled. It is original to the vehicle (bxv-3) set the timing to the highest vacuum reading around 18-19. With no luck.
Is the choke fully open at normal operating temperature? Doe the distributor vacuum and mechanical advances work properly? Is the power valve or power piston and metering rod functional? Is the float leaking and taking on fuel?
Float is adjusted correctly, the choke is fully open when running, the advance is working properly but distributer is fully retarded and this is how the marks line up while idling
10 degrees ATDC at idle is not good. Most of these are to be near TDC at idle, or at 2 to 4 BTDC at 550 RPM. Or do you mean your way to advanced at idle? If your dizzy is fully clockwise at this reading, loosen adjuster bolt under the dizzy for more movement clockwise I also think you should get a shop manual for the car...
Found another bolt under the distributor I loosen that just did it so it read zero on idle I have way more response an engine runs better than before I think I have a carburetion issue but I am happy with timing as of now
No way any motor will achieve 19" of manifold vacuum with ignition set to 10° ATDC. Check for a defective balancer if situations like that occur.
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