Technical 1926 Roadster on A frame - Kick up issue

So I have my 1926 Roadster build started, and I have the Model A frame on the frame table ready to cut the rear for the “kick up”. I am using a 1936 rear and I am keeping the spring behind yet using the Model A spring.

I have discovered a somewhat big issue, with the T body on the frame I can see the kick up will be exactly where the rear structure of the T is. I planned to cut the rear A frame and move it back 7 1/2” and up 3 1/2” to make this work with the behind axle placement. Even if I went with the spring on top of axle I have the same issue interfering with T frame structure.



How have people done the kick up on the A frame and dropped a T roadster on it? I searched but nobody shows the rear trunk area after they are done.

Should I narrow the A frame to tuck into the T rear structure?

 

pretty good looking body you have there! i would just move that brace, but first i would go study marty strodes #10 roadster build and see if some of that frame layout could give you some ideas

 

The cross brace will stay the issue is the rails that run on the sides.

 

look at any build where they use a 32 frame for a model a, you will see they make the rails dive drastically inboard to clear the subrails for the body. starts right at the wheel well

 

My project is just a bit different than yours being I'm Banger powered and stock A rear axle and it's a R.P. (same sub frame) I stepped my frame right at the end of the Tub where the Truck bed starts. At that point I took the wedge out of the rails and made them run parallel to each other. This brought the rails inside the Body Sub Frame.

It also set the top of subframe flush to top of Frame rails. Notice I also snipped off the ends of rear crossmember so it is inside also.

I made a cripple to bolt to the crossmember and out to the subframe to support the overhang. There was also an endcap on the spring crossmember and a flange out and under the subrafe to pick up the stock body mount hole at axle centerline not shown in any photos.

Here's how it ended up sitting. Hope you can find something here useful. Ya really need to get the frame rails inside the body subrails.

 

get the rails inside the subframe.. you will be c notching the subrails for the rear axle suspension travel. Don't be afraid of cutting up that old ford steel.. You will find it is lovely to weld back together into something that looks more like a HOT ROD

 

How much can you C notch a 3" tall frame rail?

 

The frame rails shall be configured to be clear of the anticipated suspension travel.. I suggested c notching the subrails,which is the body portion of the car,as you know.In this case, I would be comfortable with a 2" deep c notch, as the builder should have a body mount behind the rear axle anyhow,which will allow support for the rear of the body. Rear suspension travel will be no more than 3" in this type of car. If he steps his frame,model A type with model A rear spring, he will have at least 1" of available clearance prior to crashing his subrails. This will work.. As it has many times over.

 

eould flipping the axle bells, and putting the spring “in front” of the rear ended make much difference ?

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Makes sense to tuck in and raise the rails into the trunk floor. I was so focused on A builds using the kick up this was a shock.

I will get after this and post photos soon.

Pist-n-Broke thanks for the photos!

Cheers all.

 

P.S. I didn't make a big kick in my frame rails. I just made a 45degree cut in the side of the rails and set the bottom flange on the top flange. I think it ended up being a 3" step.

 

The build thread index has a few examples
Here's how I did one:

 

What do you run for shocks in the rear?

 

Got the frame mostly done. Just some last few welds to button up once I flip the frame over for final welds.

 

Well done. Looks very familiar. It looks like you used the Kick to also move the rear crossmember back. I could go back in the thread and probably find it but I'll just assume your running without fenders eh?

 

Thanks.

I moved the rear spring cross member as I am using 1936 rear with spring behind axle, not planning on running fenders. Now I need to figure out the rear shocks. Want to keep traditional and use friction shocks but can locate any for a good price.

 

Keep hunting, you'll find them. Good price is subject to outlook. I prefer to just pay what it takes to own a good part when I find it instead of buying a cheep piece that needs work and end up spending more than the good piece in the long run, not to mention the extra time lost.

 

Oh I agree with that 100% just hard to spend $700-1,000 for shocks ... I may punt and use 1950 Dodge tube shocks.

 

Yard Man suggested flipping the bells, putting the spring in the front.

 

Keep posting pictures of your progress, I love seeing a T-roadster come together