Thanks! All I needed to Know! You’re Swell! Its actually opposite, what I thought By a 1/16 ! probably due to weight differences in the 60-70s Some them cars were Boat anchors! Either way!! It will stop my little 33!
Don't hold me to those bore sizes, one catalog says they are both 1 inch bore than the illustrated catalog says 15/16 for the F100 instead
No Worries! My main concern, is not to accidentally mix a Drum/disc combo Master Cylinder, with all drum brakes. And after checking the part number on the box several times, it seems, That “is” a manual drum brake master cylinder. so....I should be good. Here’s the part number if you wanted to check on your own just to make sure it’s not different than what I was thinking raybestos RMC 39468
From the picture in your post #291; I would say that it is a disc/drum master. Measuring the bore with a caliper would confirm the actual size. If it the bore size is suitable; just add an external residual check valve to the disc side. Probably a good idea to check that valve is behind the brass insert on the drum side, too. Make sure you test to verify adequate pedal travel on either side of the master or your conversion will be no "safer" than a single. Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah the numbers I keep getting, are the E-Van, F100, F-250 pretty much anything Truckish from that 68 to 74-ish era It does have a 1 inch bore I measured it. Should be fine. The original single one on there has a 1-1/16th bore. Its Drum not Disc, so I’m happy! (as long as I don’t get thrown through the windshield when I hit the brakes!LOL!)
Man I hate all this waiting around on light duty from appendix recovery- just so I can get my Hernia operation! I feel like a lame duck shot in the balls! Cant do crap right now but look at the stuff slowly burying the Chassis! And my messy garage! If only the Mrs. would go out of town, I could sneak out there, and do some “light” Things! Nope!
Got an old office chair? Go "rest" in the garage in the chair and do mundane stuff like sort bolts, hand polish bits, rebuild carbs etc. I have days where I can't stand on my feet or use both hands, ya gotta be creative to maintain daily forward progress.
The way I tell a manual vs power brake master cylinder is the depth of the push rod hole in the master cylinder piston. If it is a 1/2 inch or so deep it is for a power booster, and if it is a couple inches deep it's for manual brakes. The logic for the manual brake piston having a deep hole, is so that your brake push rod wont fall out when your pedal is retracted or in the fully up position. The other thing is that dual chamber master cylinders only function like separate chambers "for safety reasons" if all that factory looking brass fitting, and tubing crap is used that came on the doner car. If you plumb it like you would any master cylinder your brake pedal will go to the floor when you open the bleed screw on a wheel cylinder. Don't ask me how I know this....
You need to follow the docs directions! After my surgery he said 6 - 8 weeks of nothing but walking. Got to feeling frogy, no pain, no stiffness so out to the shop for "light work". Wrong move! Bleeding, pain and stiffness. Recovered, felt good...tried it again, wrong again! My 6 - 8 turned into 12 because I'm a bone head! Be careful, follow the docs orders and it will pay in the long run.
Hey Y’all! Question: Have any of you guys used this universal style rear brake cable set up? I need to run it slightly offset so I can use my original 33 brake handle, and it looks like it will work for that? I will have to build my own Intermediate-connector, threaded rod/ clevis. I asked speedway if it fits 8 inch and 9 inch Ford rear ends I haven’t got an answer yet so I’m just wondering how universal it is? Thanks Rick
I figure I can just use that homemade cross piece that’s already there, maybe even use it as a bulkhead, or just mount that bracket they give you just make a rod and clevis too attach to the original rod, That should work, right? Unless I’m missing something?
I used one , they're very "universal". I'm using a handbrake from a Toyota PU to a Ford 8 inch. Have any of you guys used this universal style rear brake cable set up? I need to run it slightly offset so I can use my original 33 brake handle, and it looks like it will work for that? I will have to build my own Intermediate-connector, threaded rod/ clevis.
Shop Is Clean! Hafta do something while I’m still on Light Duty! At least the 33, Garage and tools are all ready while I wait for my Hernia surgery! If this Covid stuff will let get a damn surgery date yet! Could be a few months! Might have to do some welding at least, in between while I wait! Try not to pop a Nard!!
Well my dad is in the middle of moving, and giving me a bunch of things that are kind a cool like old small Hot rod books from the 50s. He found some pictures of the 33 from different time periods so now I have the missing gaps! To lift my spirits while it’s in 1 million pieces! I’ll try to put them in order: The first photo is the first incarnation flat head. And early Kelsey wheels. Also there’s a bunch of pictures with the actual appliance wire wheels on it so now I can show you What I thought it looked cool back then, yeah they’re outdated but it is the stance on the 33 I like. With the wheel stuck out. The other hot rods in the pictures of my uncles cars and my dads 46 pickup,34,46,40 sedan Enjoy! Later....
Murphy the Shop tool Gremlin has been visiting me again... it seems like every time I’m trying to save money for car parts, the shop tools need something! now it’s the regulator is bad on my torch, and I need the torch to straighten my frame rails before I weld the boxing plates in. Of course it’s a older out of date regulator that I tried to rebuild and didn’t work, so now I need to get a new one I don’t wanna buy a cheap one! Arggggg!!!
Welp! Bit the bullet and bought a nice Harris Regulator! Got a good deal on it through our work supplier Airgas, out the door, tax and all $85.46. (Hope the darn Acetylene doesn’t go out next!) 15 years though cant really bitch! I’m working on the frame And suspension Friday! Dammit! Been 2 months!!!
I used that setup and fabricated this setup to use it with an early Ford brake lever. The whole setup worked very well. Installed on a T-5 transmission
Doll, I have that exact E-Brake set-up on my '46 Wagon, with a 9" Ford rear, with no complaints. Nice bracket Stllrng!
Cool, how did you guys route it from the rear, being offset? I wanna try and attach it all to the chassis, so it, and all the brakes all work before I put the body back on, I was thinking using stainless tubing to run the cable’s through, welded here and there, and a few cable clamps, to act as a sliding guide around the crossmember, and drive shaft etc. especially where you cross over from driver to passenger side. Pictures?? Thanks
I will have a look if I have any pictures, but I used a Lokar cable set and it was quite easy. I just clamped the cables as I went and then you can cut them to fit up at the handle. My setup works very well.
Yeah, I’m probably overthinking it! I’ll know how to route it once I finish all my suspension welding and stuff. I would imagine? I was just wondering how much of a bend you can put in that cable? Because I have a nice section between my Master cylinder crossmember and the original crossmember.
Found this picture online, looks like you can bend it pretty tight I might have to mount the body first, if I attach it to the floor like that to clear the driveshaft. I was just trying to do as much stuff as I can with the body off, so I don’t have to crawl under the damn thing so much. You know... Brakes working, e brake, fuel lines, tank, sending unit etc. less to do later.
I agree you won’t have to worry about the bends. My driver side cable is the shape of the letter “S” and the lever is smooth and easy.
Gotta love US mags! I got 15x10s when they first reproduced them for my early bronco, but now I’m thinking maybe I should get them for the 33 since they make them in the right size and Off-sets! One thing that was holding me back was, they didn’t make the narrow cookie cutter ones for the front but apparently they do now! I really like the rocket Radir style ones too!’ Of course by the time I get the money for all these nostalgic wheels, they probably won’t make anything anymore!! And I’ll be stuck with me out of date appliance wire wheels! Course they could be popular again by that time! Dreamer....
The Jalopy Journal
