The engine runs very smooth no misfiring or any funny noises. But on the last couple startups it smoked the whole block out and clears up a mile later. Changed the plugs twice now and both times the plugs were terrible. Almost caked shut with dripping wet carbon.. Smoke out of only one pipe also. Could this be the valve seals? Or maybe rings? Just one of those days where I have so many questions..
heavy blue smoke but it reeks of gasoline I am gonna try a leak down test and see where it leads to. It’s a good wrench 350 that did set for a year or two. Hoping it’s the valve seals though.
And another little problem I have ran into.. there seems to be a port for a dipstick on this 350 But it’s plugged shut? and because the 350 is in a Jeep there is no oil filter at all.. can I punch that plug out? I really need a dipstick so I can check the level..
The replacement GM crate engines had a dipstick hole on both sides, and you'd plug the one you're not using. Did you look on the other side? The 79 and earlier engines had the dipstick on the driver side, the later ones on the pass side. They take different dipsticks. I don't know what engine you have. Are the plugs wet with oil? Valve stem seals going away will usually result in blue smoke on start up, and some times on acceleration after long deceleration. If the carb(s) aren't working right, and it's running too rich, it could be causing blue smoke as the rings might not seal well. Sitting for a year or two is a lot harder on carbs, than it is on valve stem seals. I'd make sure they're working properly, before digging further into the engine. Also, if the oil level is too high, bad things can happen.
Here is a picture of a couple of the plugs. The one on the left has the bend packed shut with carbon. Even with these plugs the 350 would start on the flick of a key after days of sitting. when we set the 142 on top of the 350 we paired it with a brand new 750 Holley set up for the supercharger. We never had running problems with it in the couple thousand miles we have run it. just the past few times it started smoking terrible on startup. Side note it appears both dipstick holes have plugs. How would I go about popping the plug out?
If that is a 350/290hp or the generic replacement engine that some people refer to as the 260hp, i.e. cast iron heads, two piece rear main seal I'd look at the valve seals and guides carefully. Probably from the 2010-2013 production era, I never got a clear answer from tech support by engine serial number break point or component date codes. Early 2013 GM released revised valve seals, valve springs and caps as they were having some issues with oil consumption on those two engines. I sold GM Performance Parts engines at that time and had to open a couple of cases with Powertrain regarding that. There was never a true TSB issued at least at that time from the notes I put in my catalog, I have the full set from 2011 to 2017 when I was active in those. I have the numbers for those parts if you decide to pursue the fix from that direction. Only thing is that I have been out of the dealership world for three years so there may be a part number revision, discontinuation or a whole new approach to the repair in GM's view. But at least you would have a starting point, any dealer should be able to help you further at least with the information I can supply.
And not to nitpick, why would the installer not have installed a remote oil filter? Personally I would not be comfortable with that.
It's amazing how long an engine can last without an oil filter, which you will discover if you mess with old cars (prewar). But yeah, there's gotta be a way to get one on there... That sure looks like an oil problem. If you can't pull the dipstick hole plug out, you'll probably have to drop the pan. I dont remember how they work exactly, if they're tapered or anything, but I know they get pounded in from the top.
It's amazing how long an engine can last without an oil filter, which you will discover if you mess with old cars (prewar). But yeah, there's gotta be a way to get one on there... Quote I concur with you especially with today's oils. But unless that Jeep is "Mall Rated" there's a lot of dust blowing around and getting sucked into that engine.
No oil filter, no dipstick, fouls plugs , burns oil what kind on super charger is on it and how many miles?
May be the seal in the supercharger is letting oil in. You need to check the oil in the front cover. Most superchargers hold 5/8 of a quart. You do not want to let it run dry. If there is a vent it may be plugged and building pressure pushing oil into the rotor cavity.
^^^ good point, you might see some residue in the intake... is this the "free" 350 goodwrench engine? Was it tore down and inspected, before throwing a huffer on it?
Better hurry up and move those plugs . your wife is going to be pissed you put them on her white bathroom rug.
It seems like you might have lost a seal in the blower since it’s so much oil so fast but you said it was mostly out of one side. I would think it would be both sides. Check the oil level in the blower. If it has an automatic trans with a vacuum modulator, check that too. I had that go out on me and it oils the plugs pretty badly too. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have been doing normal oil changes and adding an extra quart of zinc additive and with no canister or even a filter I’m wondering if squirrel is right and I just over filled it with oil? Gonna drain it all today and see how much is in it. Then I’ll try to get that plug out.
And here is a frame mount filter I would be happy to use. But in order for me to use this filter I need to find a non welded shut plate that’s in the second picture. And after looking everywhere I cannot find this exact plate. The steering doesn’t look like it in the picture but it definitely does not allow a filter or canister to clear the arm..
That looks like the old style bypass oil filter for flathead era engines, finer filter but only about 10 percent flow. Look into a more modern adapter for filter relocation
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