Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

Could be true. I'm no expert. Possibly the cars could have had other contributing issues? I'm still learning. That's for sure!

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Carburetor needles and seats were leaking. We used an old Craftsman drill and hacksaw to add extra threads. It was not properly sealing due to a gap at the end of the threads.

Moving forward.....

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We've had a difficult last few days. Valves have been adjusted twice. Final adjustment was completed with the car running. All looks good. No valve associated noise present.

Now we are dealing with a very inconsistent miss. Along with that miss is a very high pitched buzz or pop. Compression checked out with a couple cylinders looking a bit low. On second check those corrected themselves. We used a small camera tool to examine the pistons. All looked acceptable with some carbon build up on top. No major issues seen.

We have concluded that it is an ignition issue. We have a new Pertronix coil and distributor. I really suspect it is the coil wire. Much of the popping sounds seem to come from the distributor. When it pops then immediately a cylinder seems to misfire.

This is so frustrating! Any recommendations?

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If you suspect the coil wire, change it, what do you have to lose? Have you checked the cap and rotor for cracks? Just thinkin' out loud...
The buzzing sound you describe has me confused though. (which isn't really that hard to do...) Lol.

Wish I was there to hear it. Have you tried to ground the distributor from the clamp to the chassis?

 

I agree! I've got another coil wire and plug wires ordered. The sound is very odd. Not a metallic clanking, but more of a pop or buzz.

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When did the noise start ? After you messed with the distributor ?

 

Thats one nice spark plug tool...

 

Yes. It started the last time we reinstalled the distributor. That's why I completely replaced it and the coil. No improvement.

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Thanks! It works great.

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Think there might be something related to distributor or replacement ?

 

I can't help but wonder if the distributor was shimmed too tight.

They need play in them to compensate for rates of expansion as things heat up.

 

We'll have to check our replacement. We didn't shim it anymore than factory. Hopefully it is something simple.

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It definitely could be. We suspected that from the beginning. No change with the new coil, cap, and distributor. I think it may be a coil wire or grounding issue.

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We replaced the coil wire and it was definitely causing some of the spark scatter. A couple valves are sticking too. We're going to pull the valve covers and take a look on Friday. Hopefully they will free up pretty easy.


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We looked at two valves today. The valve to guide clearance seemed very tight. The valve also looks like it is developing a ridge where the guide stops.

We reassembled each valve after working some Marvel Mystery Oil between it and the guide.

Hopefully we'll get better news soon.

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Please do not include me in on the distributor replacement diagnosis. I have a reputation to protect.

 

I don’t understand Mr Dan,,,,,I thought you were the main ramrod on this cattle drive ?
Hope it works out for you .

Tommy

 

Dan is right. I suspected that the Pertronix distributor or the coil was causing the spark scatter issues. I ordered new ones and put them in without checking with Dan first. They didn't fix anything.

Costly mistake. Lesson learned.



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Dan is a great guy! I'm certainly NOT the expert here! He's been very kind to meet with me almost every day. I would be lost without his help.

Unfortunately, I am young and/was very naive. I never knew a vehicle could be so frustrating. I just want the car to be happy. I've been trying to help but my eagerness to buy parts hasn't made things better.

Dan has been great to stick with me.

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Well,
Tonight I'm sad but hopeful. Valve work is definitely needed. Valves are scratched on the sides. They slide in the guides as if on very fine sand paper.

We've also found a small amount of metal shaving under each valve and spring. You can barely see it as grey particles in the pictures.

We have an excellent machine shop here in Tontitown. Their shop squared up my intake. Next we'll check the oil for other issues and remove the heads for repair.

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Much work done yesterday. Rob helped me get everything torn down again. The heads are getting a valve job at G & S machine shop in Tontitown.

They said that the builder didn't put any inserts between the cast guides and the stainless valves.
That combined with the amped up spring pressure was more than enough to gall the valves.

Here's a few pics. Rob says that the removal was just the easy part. Now for clean up. Have a great holiday!

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There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with running SS valves in iron guides , iron is longer wearing than bronze & will last waaaay longer than bronze liners, IMO. If there's iron filings in your oil system , its not the guides that caused it . That machine shop saw you coming & sold you their best box of BS !

 

No. What we are seeing is that the stainless steel valves are being eaten. This results in a powdery deposit of silver metal in the oil. No iron is present in the oil. So maybe the valves were made of inferior metal?

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Here's a great article on Engine Builder Magazine regarding valve and guide choices....

Cast iron guides are used mostly by OEMs due to its wear characteristics that result in longevity for high mileage applications. Cast iron is used with chrome valve stem applications as well. Cast iron cannot be used with stainless steel because of its tendency to gall.

That’s why high performance applications do not warrant the use of cast guides due to the fact the material can’t handle the high loads associated with higher spring pressures. Under high stress, cast iron guides tend to crack and fracture, which can result in engine failure altogether. Cast iron is inexpensive and works best with daily drivers and high mileage applications.

Have a great holiday! If anyone wants to help me with my car please drop me a line. Thank you!


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Seems I was confused and spoke out of turn . My apology to you sir , my mistake , my bad , I'll shut up ....

 

No no no! That wasn't my point at all. I was just explaining my point. Please continue to follow and comment on our work. Happy 4th! Have a great weekend!

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Nic,
From your pics you only had two cylinders that the valves were sealing well .
On each head there is one chamber that has a brown exhaust valve .
If the valves are doing their job,,,,,the exhaust heads will always be a nice brown color .
Usually if the valves are all working right,,,,,the intakes and exhaust will be brown,,,or at least brownish .

It looks like it is a nice short block,,,,domed pistons and all .
After a nice valve job and guides replacement,,,you should be good to go .
Looks like the gaskets were sealing well,,,,that is a plus .

Good luck with the repairs,,,,,,the heads and valve sealing is most important in my book .

Tommy

 

Now would be a good time to check your quench and make that puppy happy.

 

Thank you for the quick inspection. I have no idea what those are supposed to look like. I did notice that the pistons looked like they were pretty black. The machine shop stated that the builder had used OEM head gaskets as well.

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At least it is a conformation that factory style head gaskets seal good .

You can clean the carbon and oil buildup from the pistons if you want,,,,,use some brake clean or similar cleaner .
Or,,,don’t worry and leave it alone,,,it won’t hurt a thing .
Getting the heads reworked will go a long way to fixing your problems .
It should really make a difference with the power .
Then,,,you just might feel what that Man E Fre is capable of .
When it is right,,,,and the engine too,,,,,,it can startle you .

Tommy