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HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Go H.A.M.B. Classifieds!
    This top half is going to be way better than my current one!


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  2. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Another piece to polish and put on the firewall! And safety wire Matt.
    Alright more labor, less parts shopping


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  3. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Mmmmm safety wire.....
     
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  4. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    So mad that I didn’t see this a few months back!!! Now I can’t stop thinking about it. Don’t get me started on wanting a 404-a radius cam for the second 4 1/8 block either.
    Back to work.


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  5. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Old frame’s best side
    Now next to the new one after some sock rubbing. It was blued up from heating the hinge mounting screws. I started cleaning that area and was surprised when it came out.
    [​IMG]
    Driver’s side comparo.
    [​IMG]
    It has a couple spots here trying to get as ugly as my first one. I will tend to those spots to hide them some.
    The lower section is shot and had been re chromed. But may help me repair my first lower section. I would like to soak this frame in molasses like the other to help pause any further corrosion. I’ll repaint the inside surface for the black is in shambles.
    This windshield frame is a huge improvement and was cheap but needs a little tweaking to jive with the car. My old one I was bothered by knowing it would be the junkiest part of the entire car. This will better sell the faux authenticity scheme I’ve created.
    I keep forgetting that my passenger side front brake backing plate chrome is much worse than the other side and needs to be swapped for a better one. I may put old chrome backing plates on the rear too, since I’ll probably never get a old chrome rear axle and torque tube, we’ll see.


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  6. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Frame looks pretty nice!
     
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  7. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Ooooh looky right here. That can fix this side. The other not so much but I’ll figure it out.


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  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Holy schmoly! I have at least four hours in grinding this down. Jeez it’s not even supposed to look nice.
    IMG_0986.JPG
    Should be done after sanding a couple more. Then I can go to town on the blower case.


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  9. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I posted this pic before but does anyone know these NOS type of spark plug caps I got?
    IMG_6719.JPG
    It doesn’t seem that the rubber portion wants to go over the plug’s porcelain. The rubber is still pliable and the plug porcelain doesn’t seem abnormally large. I love these things for I feel that go very well with the Harmon Collins or any crab cap for that matter. It would seem to me that they were designed with the oval shape on purpose and the rubber would still look like this when pushed on. I don’t think that the case if I force them down.


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  10. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,172

    waxhead
    Member
    from West Oz

    They look like SealTight insulators. I think that they are not fitting because of the shape of the porcelain on your spark plugs. I juts tried them on some NGK B6L (flathead spark plugs) and they fit OK, but are tight.
    IMG_2282.jpg IMG_2283.jpg IMG_2284.jpg
     
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  11. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Thanks man for the reply. Yes they are seal tight. They came in the original boxes. I was wondering does anybody “know” them. As in yes they suck to put on or what not. I hoped I might be ignorant about what way to probably install them or correct plugs style they were intended for.
    Huge NGK fan here but I am a nerd about using period plugs on this pile. I suppose I may have to modify them to get over fat plugs. After spending a few more hours tonight on the blower’s front cover I have to ask why take the hard road all the time?


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  12. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,172

    waxhead
    Member
    from West Oz

    They were pretty hard to get onto the NGK plugs, which have a lot narrower porcelain than the plugs you are using. I think that your only option would be to increase the size of the hole in the rubber portion of the Sealtight, if you want to use the spark plugs you have currently installed.

    The hard road generally leads to a job that you are happy with.
    If you take the easy road first, you will have to venture back to hard road later on. :)
     
  13. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    20200627_031945.jpg

    :rolleyes:...don't worry once you get the Boot on the Bulbous Plug the Kilt will Cover It...:D

    Nothing like NOS...Eh
     
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  14. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Did ya try putting a little dialectical grease on the plugs to see if it made it possible to slide over?
     
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  15. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Don’t remember Matt, it was a sometime ago when I messed with’m. Paused at the pic in my phone remembering I hadn’t solved the problem yet.

    IMG_0990.JPG
    IMG_0991.JPG

    I broke my own vow and went to shiny with this. It’s so easy with the Dremel that I was only meaning to do the tight corners. I will dull it back up before sending the car on in public. If you zoom in you’ll see that the actual surface is shoddy at best like I meant. Still can’t believe it took so long. Tomorrow I hope to start own the blower case and front bearing support plate. My friend hasn’t milled the rear piece for me yet. I did start making the two round bearing covers for the back.


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  16. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    That is pretty shiny!
     
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  17. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    After getting gross(Damn Rotella!)taking main blower unit apart I drifted out of my lane. I can’t help but think of my four old chrome 94s on it at some point. I must confess I’ve only scratched the surface of figuring that out though.
    There will be a myriad of calculations to compartmentalize. For starters I have 3 different carbs. Two match in design but two remaining around two different as well.
    [​IMG]
    X2
    [​IMG]
    X1
    [​IMG]
    And x1
    I have four other 94s to lift parts from but I expect to be needing a fare share of new bits for the rebuild.
    I’ve been dragging my feet to crack any open. I wanted to be all set up to do the whole deal and have them back together and ready waiting.
    In order to mount them with two pairs with there back to each other in the center of the blower inlet. I have at least to problems thus far. The mixture screws would be facing each other inaccessible and the power valves if all carbs have them will hit and impede the bodies from getting close enough together. I want the carbs touching and may even machine them to get closer still over the supercharger inlet. There is also a problem of the linkage limiting the closeness for n aft. Meaning the furthest barrels front and back are not over the opening.
    So lots of problems but they just solidify my desire to make a 8 barrel base plate. Which will be no easy feat of course. I know Ive read about the power valve issue with multiple 94 pairings. I will review all that to see if I need to make considerations for my intended usage. Hopefully I can solve other to enter a new world of badassery.


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  18. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Nice part about those carbs is you can use different bases without the power valves from your stock of carbs. I would soak them in pine sol and get them apart. Clean them up and see where you are at.
    You could run a progressive linkage with the two that match as mains and the different ones as secondary's with no mixture screws,chokes and other foolishness. If you did that you could run the primary facing so you can get at the screws.
    Your adapter base will need to have all sorts of angles machined inside to get the flow paths right, but that should be easy.
     
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  19. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Matt, I think your missing something though I love your feedback. I am not trying to run an adapter plate that will direct flow into the blower. Rather I want to machine a one piece base “throttle body” for all four carb main bodies to go on. Becoming one 8 barrel carb unit.
    Like this Navarro piece.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Preferably out of phenolic?


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  20. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Oh I see what you mean.
    Doesn't necessarily mean you can't play with their locations and function to make it all fit. I wouldn't ditch the extra power valves anyway. You only probably need two, in the bottom of the float bowl. Then with some screwing around you could as I mentioned run two carbs as primary and two as mechanical secondary.
     
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  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Free piece yesterday. Probably not any help for the “Lakes Sedan” but am collecting parts for the post war A-V8.
    Buzzard
    [​IMG]
    Gonna paint this on the rumble seat lid. Was my dad’s nickname and he had some weird admiration for the character. I believe it was first thrust upon him by his family as a child. Most of my child hood you might hear him in a mood mumbling through the house “my momma done told me, to go fetch some dinner”


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  22. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Hubba2020V2e.jpg

    Hubba2020V2d.jpg

    IMG_0815.JPG

    :rolleyes:...I stepped it back a bit...What I'm trying to get is get the structural defined...color can wait. I believe I have captured the chop closer to what you have defined...definitely one of the loftier challenges I have taken on but I again enjoy the forward visions...
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
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  23. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Oh “Shockie” I see you there playing peekaboo!
    Great work @Stogy , I’d drive it like that, hold it to the floor till the ring gear flew out!
    That’s pretty close to how it looks, closest by far. There’s nothing we can do about the way my original phone pic makes the entire hood section look stretched. I can look past that as I know how it truly is. The drip rail isn’t as straight as it seems in these pics either. It actually has a soft arch to it. If the car was leveled out on jack stand in a way where the roof wasn’t raked. I think it would show the drip rail curving down from the B-pillar over the quarter window.
    For us persnickety few I also no longer have the middle door hinge and my hood hold downs are original old black ones. My hood handle will be the original black or body color. I purposely purchased base model stuff instead of the shiny things. Oh and my grill shell bull nose and emblem are original. No I don’t have a Bones Skull on there
    Please don’t waste your time on these details. I’m just putting it out there for the gang can be inspired by your work more to the way it will wrap up.
    Thanks man, Wyatt “soon to be a legend”LoL


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  24. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Teaser
    NOS Warbird part
    [​IMG]
    I’ll use this side forward
    [​IMG]
    It’s tedious and I have to do a fair amount of the back too
    [​IMG]

    Just a little more and the bottom cap.



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  25. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    El-Mirage_Thunder_HubbaV2d.jpg

    El-Mirage_Thunder_HubbaV2e.jpg

    ;)

    May I explain...I have mixed it up a little here with some thirties Gilmore Style Racing, or perhaps Pierson Coupe scallopy swoop, Big Lettering, and a mix of licks which again are dusts and not flames...the Thumbnail is the in motion at speed...Again I am in awe of where your going with this most interesting build which is a real teaser and ages like Fine Wine or would that be Old Whisky...:D



     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
  26. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Ok last time I’ll show or talk about this little fat guy till it’s mounted on the firewall. All done except needing huge fittings. I am proud of the steel clamp lid holder thingy on the bottom. It came black but when I was seeking this out I saw that they were often drab Olive. I just had to have it green. The wing nut gets safety wired as does the drain valve when ready to run. I’ll take a page from that play book and bolt it down with studs and castle nuts, safety wired of course.
    I have cut the big chunks off the blower case. In the middle of lots of grinding. Not worth taking a pic yet.


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    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
  27. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_1028.JPG
    In the theme of crap I’m bolting to the firewall. I’ve had this starter solenoid for a Ford tractor for a while. It’s in my favorite marble bake-lite color so I think it’s cool. I have to modify the bracket to mount flat. It has a extra post that I researched once before about how it will work on the car but I forgot.
    Can’t decide rather to use one of these repop patent plaques or remove the rough faded one off my pickups firewall to use. It’s probably too much patina that I don’t think I can revive. Maybe abuse the new one.
    Then moving from my firewall back to dashboard dilemmas.
    IMG_1029.JPG
    Thinking on going with these plane dash lights in stead of the ones I got. They are smaller and it could help with the crowding of junk that I’ve slapped on the beauty.
    I’d be lying if I didn’t say the green lens has something to do with it. My fighter plane ones are amber.
    IMG_1033.JPG
    I intend to put them above every gauge after drilling the holes in the flat surface on the grey painted area.
    IMG_1032.JPG
    The green ones are 50s plane not WWII so that bugs me a little. I believe when they were screwed in that connected them. I’d have to figure out how to wire in a way I that a moron will understand.
    As I always say, it’s in the details baby.



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  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    The extra lug on the solenoid runs to the coil when the starter is engaged to give it a shot of full 12 volts for easier starting. Not much use in a 6volt system.
     
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  29. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_1035.JPG
    IMG_1034.JPG
    Ah, whatever, here’s some pics of the rough cut housing getting cleaned up before the important work begins.
    I failed to mention that it looked good on the inside. A scratch or two that I can’t see having any substantial effect on boost pressure. I’m not to concerned with a particular number. I plan to overdrive it around 50% and that should be in the 11 to “13”#s. Lol 13.
    [​IMG]

    I noticed these cut carb tops just after I ordered 4 domed bug screens. I think this same cut will look good on mine and help with my hood clearance.

    I assume some could give a hoot about this stuff but I wanted to show I am working on this junk even though my time is limited. Further I know most wonder why I’m not working on the body. I told myself I’d start on it again when the rear wheel wells get here. They’re on backorder now which is fine with me cause I just can’t get excited about it. I think it’s my crowded garage. It has loads of home project stuff laying round. These tend to be my wife’s wishes. Which I know benefits us all and our home. I tend to barely give a crap cause they are mostly my labor and time. I think I may get bitter subconsciously cause I want that effort applied to my hot rods.
    The garage has gotten better but then worse again this year. I can’t even step back and look at its bad self. So I keep plugging away on smalls as best I can. What better insignificant progress than on a supercharger to put Hubba Hubba on the next level?
    My friend,who is no aficionado of tradition or the era, said it’s too much polishing. I laughed cause I was planning my next chrome don’t get ya home piece right at that moment.
    As for the time machine factor of my build theme. I think it is understandable if the engine bay looks like it been worked on or freshened up. It is the heart of the beast. I am not trying to make it look like a barn find. It’s hard to explain the way I see it. So I best finish her up right quick and show ya.


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    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
  30. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    If ya don't like polished aluminum you are not a hot rodder! Lol
     

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