Had a bent axle on the ole 47 Ford coupe and ordered a cut to fit from Summitt,wore out about 5 blades to cut it with a Sawzall. Tried cutoff saw with a carbide blade, a portable bandsaw but it wasn't working . Anyway it is done and installed. Had a tough time finding correct lugs and then brake register was about 3/8 larger than old axle so I had to enlarge the brakedrum hole . Used a round file in a drill and a small drum sander on the drill measuring over and over and got a good snug fit and it was centered. Had my doubts that I would be able to enlarge this and keep it round , centered and snug but dang thing turned out well. If I had it to do over again, I would get an axle the correct length but all I found were going to be about mid July before I got them it seems .
Metal cut off wheel in a right angle grinder would have make quick work of that. Clamp a radiator hose clamp on the axle as a guide to cut square...
Some pintos had narrow rears, some used 28 spline 8" pigs. Find the right length axle and drill the flange to 5 hole...
Good idea , did last night and didn't have a cut off wheel for my grinder , If I had it to do over , I would wait and get the cutoff wheel as you suggested.
Here are pics of the drum after I enlarged the hole fitted on the new axle and a pic of it after the cut on the old axle.you can see the gap where my finger points that shows how much I enlarged it.
If you don't have a bunch of brake chatter from the drum not being centered you are probably good. The problem with the sawzall blades is that the heat treated splines on the axle are harder than the saw blade.
Drum is centered stated in first post so no chatter. Yes on the sawzall blades, funny thing though , tried my cutoff saw with a carbide steel demon blade, sawzall with same carbide but ended up using thin kerf regular metal sawzall blades , that's why it took 5 .
That's where the one in my coupster came from and I've got one in reserve. My housing came from an early 60's Fairlane. Skinniest axles I ever saw.
The carbide inserts were probably dull (or chipped) as soon as you got through the splines on the initial cut, carbide does not play well with interrupted cuts at high speed.
Thanks, I just recently bought this Steel demon blade, always had the ole aluminum oxide blades and thought this was going to be a major step up but so far it has not impressed me even on mild steel.
Thank you but I wasn't looking for a rearend, thought you might have mistakenly sent that to me and ment to respond earlier,my apologies.
Pinto Crusin' Wagon with the port hole side window and a V6 had 8" rearend with 4 bolt wheels. Wagons made into panels more or less. I junked one out years ago, rear went to friend with a Studebaker with a MII frontend and Chevy V/8. That made wheel bolt patterns match. That's been 35 years and it is still in it. Dave
The Jalopy Journal
