Projects What to look for when buying a Model A Roadster

Many were very amateur restorations, as they were affordable. Not uncommon for brazed on patch panels if done in the early 80’s or before. Look at the rear subrails over the rear axle, tend to stress crack. The rear wheel wells, they made panels to go over them that bolt on with the fenders which hide the rusted panel behind. If it’s a California car, that may not be an issue. If you want a channeled car, then you may want to look for just a body and frame.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Be sure the number on the title matches a number on the vehicle. The number may be the one stamped on the boss on the side of the engine. Post a photo of the number and people can tell you if it is the correct font which would indicate the it is original and not something added later. California DMV may have added a tag to the door with their own number which if acceptable. Post a picture of it, it needs to be something the DMV installed with their special rivits not something bought on EBAY (See attached).

Charlie Stephens

 

Make sure you get an assurance from the owner that the frame numbers match the title... You have to lift the body off the frame to see them... They are usually by where the a pillar bolts to the left frame rail...If they don't match you could have titling issues....Here in Nevada I had to lift the body to have that number verified by DMV...

 

Model A's were originally registered by the engine number. There was also a matching number on the frame but it is under the body and can't be seen without lifting or removing the body. In the last 90 years it is very possible that the original engine has been replaced at least once if not several times. So, like Charlie says make sure the number on the pink matches the engine number or it has a DMV assigned vin that matches the title. If not you are on a leap of faith that the frame number hidden under the body matches the pink.

 

One more thing, I'm not a Model A expert (although my first car was a '31 Model A coupe that I bought when I was 15) but I've been told that back in the day Ford sold replacement engines called Diamond Blocks that didn't have numbers stamped on the block. This allowed anyone with a set of authentic looking Ford number stamps to stamp the block with whatever number needed. If this isn't the case I'm sure a Model A guru will set it straight.

 

Good luck on your first traditional hot rod project, I know you have a vision of what you want to build and don't doubt it will turn out as you envision it.

Try to buy the best body you can, the money spent up front will be a savings when it's time to do body work.HRP

 

The cost of what he has versus what you are actually going to use . Ex: body , frame and title. A lot of frames have had some sort of butchery done over the years , wether repairs or extra holes, notches , add ones or brackets cut off. Check over frame carefully for the above past deeds as well as the body. Check body for rust or previous repairs that may have body out of alignment. If previous wreck could have a great repair or a bad one, leading to rework to get the body squared up.

 

Very exciting Joey! I always buy with my heart instead of my brain but that’s not great advice, ha! Do the opposite?!

 

I couldn't have said THAT better.

Also, I know it's great to get a really nice complete car to start with...but be careful, do you really want to pay a lot of money for parts that you aren't going to use? You don't need the fenders, engine/trans/drivetrain, wheels/tires, axles, interior, wiring, radiator etc. A nice complete '31 roadster may cost you $15k, when all you need is a really nice $3-5K body and frame.

 

Look at the hood from the side, if the gap between the cowl and hood gets larger as it gets closer to the frame then the frame is sagging. Take a flashlight and crawl under it to look for floor or frame damage or bad repairs. Last, don't believe anything your told from the owner unless you check it yourself.

 

A bodies tended to bow out at the top pooching the door fit, check the b pillar mounts,
the spare tire and mount hanging on the panel below deck with the frame stopping over the rear, that caused a crack in the skin where the beltline splits into combimg and beltline, when the trailing wood mounting blocks got weak...
check for bondo there...
i have seen turnbuckels in side the quarters before...
check for frame sag where the motor mounts bolt on... it will pooch the hood gaps... my $0.02.

 

This comment along with title are the most important! We tore down a raodster and a touring to modernize for a gentleman. Both were nice looking restored cars. BOTH of them had tons of bondo, cardboard, screendoor parts hiding in them. Anything on the lower parts of the bodies needs to be looked at closely. T A restorers were a snobby bunch, many still are. The rest died and left their sins hidden under Lucite Enamel paint they layed down in 1979. BEWARE

 

Take a refridgerator magnet. it wont stick to thick mud. Also, look at the shape, smoothness of the panels. the crispness of the body lines and edges etc. Listen to the sound when you tap. Good tin sounds different than mud. if you can see the backsides you can tell what is hidden. A lot of this comes from experience. But, looking like you know what you are looking for might cause a seller to be a little more forthcoming

 

I can picture the Bondo layered over screen when I hear this phrase. Make sure to remove the interior panels and look in the bottoms of the cowl, quarters, doors, and tail panel. MANY old restorers were sticklers for originality except when it came to restoring the steel to "all steel". Their best friend came in a can, and it wasn't the Budweiser kind.

If they won't let you remove the interior panels, pass on that car. Any old restoration has got to have a kind of tattered interior by now that shouldn't be too harmed by undoing a few screws and clips. If they won't let you investigate, they are probably hiding something. Take some screwdrivers and a putty knife to do this removal. Or have the owner do the removal.

 

And to go with what @alchemy said. A good restorer will have photo documentation of the whole thing

 

In that case, find the nicest one you can in your price range and drive the crap out of it Good luck, let us know how you make out.

 

Looks really complete, and probably not one they would let you pry apart the upholstery. So do take a magnet to check all you can. Don't be scared to ask though. Usually the quarters can be seen inside if you look from the rumble seat end.

And if you do find rust or bad patches, don't be afraid to point them out and ask nicely if they can lower the price? You always wanted to learn to do proper bodywork, didn't you?

 

It seems to be a good car. But, as someone already said, all you really need is a body and frame. Go to some cruise nights, local car shows, and talk to people with a car similar to what you want to build. Most times those people know what is around, and what may be available.

 

That looks like a nice one to start with... and listen to all the advice you've been given.

As far as channeling goes; I own a '31 roadster that was channeled 4 inches long ago. Besides the fact that it screwed up the relationship between the seat, pedals and steering wheel, at 6' tall I don't fit. When I tear into that one the body is going back on top of the frame where it belongs.

It's your project and your choice so do what makes YOU happy!

 

Two things, it looks like the left front fender had some repair in the past. The cracking says bondo to me not just old paint. If you're going to remove the fenders not an issue to you but might make their resale value less. And that was some big cat leaving foot prints on the fender.

 

Lots of good info above. Look at everything is probably the best. One thing I have seen often is when checking the numbers on the frame, they might not be visible. There is a fabric webbing between the body and frame. It can hold moisture and rust the metal obliterating the numbers.

Just a funny story: a friend was working on a another friend's Special Coupe. He asked if I could help him adjust the rumble lid that he was having trouble with. Sure enough, the lid was not lining up square in the opening. So I looked inside the area and saw that the quarters were all screen wire & Bondo! Sorry guys, can't help.

Look everywhere.

BTW the roadster looks good, nice find.

 

fellow had a 30 coupe, white, chopped... sold it, new owner crashed it...
the roof over the door was made of expando-foam, nothing else... magnet in a paper tissue !

 

The quarter panel lower bead looks like it gets wider as you go back and the intersect where it goes around the fender is squared off, not correct. I’m guessing it’s full of mud. That’s based on the photo with the people in the car.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That's the first area I would look along with lower cowls

Sent from my SM-J337V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

At 6’3”, a channeled roadster probably won’t be the best choice. The black roadster pictured would be a great basis for the look to go for.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app