I'm reading as I'm posting. Questions for strength on a T5, I have a 4cyl (or V6) S10 mech speedo to start with and I'm wondering if it's best to get another Non world class Camaro T5 and mate the 2 or get a Ford world class, adapt it to the Chevy bellhousing and put the S10 tailshaft on it. I would need to find either a Ford or Chevy trans with the right gearing. Basically Ford world class vs Chevy non world class behind a fairly healthy 327 with 7.50 radials. I'm going to be normal on driving with some stints of dumbassery.
The issue with the 4 cyl trans is lower torque rating because of the low 1st gear. Also results in wider gear ratio spreads. The V6 or better V8 trans have taller 1st gear. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
I was thinking of swapping the guts out of a V8 Camaro into the S10 (or just the S10 tailshaft). With the Ford I would swap the tailshaft and run an adapter. Not going to keep the 4cyl parts. I need the .63 5th gear set as I'm going to run the 4.11 truck open banjo. I guess my question should be: Is the Ford world class stronger/better then the Chevy NON world class.
Forget about non world class if your going to horse around with that trans.They live behind 283"s driven by 60 year old guys who go to coffee in their car...like me.Get a Camaro V8 trans,or a Ford.The Ford can be had cheaper,and the Mustang guys run some real HP through them.My next build pile includes a Ford with a S10 tail housing on it.The late 90"s trans have hardened gears.I put a counter shaft bearing support on mine.Add a adapter,and its behind a Chevy.
The V8 Camaro ones I found are from a 1985 and 1986, both are non world class. I'm thinking I should look for a Ford WC with the right gearing.
Reading it at the same time. I just didn't think my questions from outside ads would get returned so quick.
World class for camaro will be in the 88-92 years. Best, strongest, closest ratio gears to pick from, period. You will grenade a non world class behind a good chevy v8. Also you can not just put WC guts into a NWC case, just can't do it... the countershaft support bearing is totally different.
About 1/2 way through reading and watching videos. I guess IF I had a V6 S10 mech speedo on a stock flathead it would be ok. IF I had a V6 S10 mech speedo AND a non WC V8 Camaro already (and got them cheap) I could mate the two for a warmed up SBC. But since I buying another trans good money says to buy a 90's (later the better) Mustang WC and use my spare mech speedo S10 tailshaft. So it looks like the Mustang wins..........
If you buy a later model Mustang T5, their speedometer drive gear is in a different spot on the output shaft compared to the s10 and camaros, and yes the GM s10 tailhousing will bolt up, the place for your mech speedo drive will not line up with the mustang gear without some custom adaptions.
I got that part, I had a 2.3 Mustang T5 with a S10 tail shaft in it as I WAS going to run a 2.0 pinto in it. I was going to either use shim stock or a homemade collar lock. Anyhow I switched gears (HA!) and I'm now going with a 327 and a T5. All my previous research was for the 2.3 T5, now I need to get up to speed on the V8 T5. It's not a total waste, the whole setup (2.0 hopped up pinto, 2.3 T5 and modified bellhousing) will live again in the Hillman Husky.
A 327 with some where in the neighborhood of 325-350hp, a 10.5 clutch, 7.50 radials, 4.11 gears in a '28 Tudor. With the 4.11 I want to run the 2.95 gear set, which means the Z spec. I think this will hold up to some buffoonery, I'm also thinking of doing the counter gear stabilizer from 5speed and the 5th gear snap ring holder from Blake on the Ultimate T5 article. Are there some cheap 2.95 gear sets to look out for brand wise. I found a complete unit and want to open it up and check everything, other then damage I want to know if the parts inside are junk.
Don't buy the counter gear stabilizer from anyone else other than 5speeds.com, the others are knock offs, his is the best.
What's your budget?. It may be worth getting a custom built unit from a T5 specialist to hold your power level. Cost you about $2200 bucks though.
I think the big problem would be the S10 tailshaft housing. MDL has the T5Z, if you want their housing it's an extra $650 and the others I would have to put it on myself (voiding the warranty). I was thinking of just buying the T5Z and putting the tailshaft housing on or I found some people (and regular trans shops) that claim they rebuild a WC T5 with a 2.95 gear set and an mech speedo S10 tailshaft housing........me being me I want to make sure the insides look like it should. I might buy a good core and swap gears myself, a lot of places sell the 2.95 gear set as 1-4, no o/d 5th and I would need to find the .63 gear set.
I pose another question, would you buy a "rebuilt" trans off of eBay?. I would pepper the builder with questions and make sure they matched the trans when I got it....meaning taking it apart and checking. If I was to build the trans myself I think I would be in it a few hundred dollars more (buy a used trans, tailshaft housing, rebuild kit, gears and misc). I really would just be saving myself from having to hunt down another trans and S10 mech tailshaft housing (and some $$$). Even the rebuild houses around here want a core. Let the burning begin !!!
If you’re gunning for those HP numbers, don’t do it. The T-5 is not designed to handle the HP and torque you are going to see with that 327 built to those numbers. Ask me how I know. The camero version is only rated for about 200 foot pounds of torque. If you’re going to do any hot rodding at all you’ll break it. That’s what happened in my 54 Chevy pickup. Warm 350, 3:27 rear gears. Right now it only has 4th gear (straight gear). There are better 5 speeds out there for that amount of muscle. Chevy had heavier 5 speeds available in their half ton pickups. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Astro gear set advertises 350hp for the ones I'm looking at. I was thinking those would be ok since I won't be doing any real drag racing and the 7.50 tire won't hook up real well.
I have a T5 behind 400hp in a model A 2 door. Mostly street driven but had several runs at Bonneville. I had a transmission shop put it together. It has the 2.95. It has a .82 OD. It has 2 bushings in the tail housing for the slip joint. It has the late synchros. It has the mechanical speedo drive with an electronic adapter. It has a home made short throw shift adapter. (4 inches 1 to 2). The torque rating is 310 ft. lb. This is NOT a transmission that can be abused with big tires, heavy car weight and side stepping the clutch. If you want that, you need a Lenco or a Tremec.
Yeah, lots of reading. I'm going to go through it again as I don't remember too much on aftermarket gears. Maybe time to do some more research on other trans like the NV. I've read that the TKO can be a little finicky.
I have a NV4500 behind a AMC 401, and I love it. I got it from a rebuilder in Dallas and put a BD short shifter on it with a custom lever and a Hurst Ball.
5.61 first gear and 3.04 second. It is in a Jeep. I use second from a stop on the street. He mentioned a NV transmission, and I just relayed my experience with a NV4500. It is a great transmission, if it's capabilities pair well with your intentions.
So it really comes down to the Z spec T5 which MDL say is good for 450hp street and 330ft lbs (1352-0251, 1352-0249, M-7003-Z). It's kinda all over the place MDL specs, others say 300ft lbs, Astro gear says 350hp for their gears, then I swap tailshaft housings. The TKO has possible high rpm into 3rd problems, but haven't heard if there's a improved factory version. My cheap warning is going off........usually that's when I end up screwing myself.