Was snugging up the fuel fitting and.......... the carb threads stripped out.... there's still plenty of thread so maybe a longer fitting would work, I don't know. What is the fitting called and any advice would be helpful, pretty upset about this one.
Banjo fitting like this? Might have to switch to AN to Holley bowl fitting, might give you more threads, or get another bowl...
It looks as if there is in the background a continuous fuel line from the rear bowl... there is a connecting tube already on the carb, don't see the need for in-out fitting on the front bowl unless its being returned to the tank.
I don't know a lot about this stuff, Do I need a bowl specific to this carb or will any similar bowl from another Holley work? I have a friend who has a bunch of random carbs laying around.
That's your basic 1850 style carb, if he's got one that looks the same it should work. You generally only run into the oddball bowls on OEM applications. The only caution I would give is check the threads on the float valve; some aftermarket off-brand rebuild kits will damage these threads. If your valve will thread into the bowl without force, you should be good to go...
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...s/fuel_bowl_kits_and_components/parts/134-101 Do you know exactly which carb(s) you have? Any #s on the air horn?
There's two basic Holley float bowl designs; side-hung floats and center-hung. Center hung all have dual feed fuel lines, side hung have only one per carb. Yours is side hung.
Just curious, would I need to remove the carb from the intake to swap bowls for any reason? I just put the damn things on, and would I need any new gaskets or rubber pieces? thanks, I feel better about the situation.
No need to remove carby, just undo the four retaining screws and it should come off. you might need a new bowl gasket if you damage the old one.
If you get a new float bowl, and I believe you should, you will have to transfer your needle and seat as well as your float to the new bowl. Your Holley should have a List Number on the front of the air horn or choke housing. Get that number, CALL Summit or Jegs and give them your List Number and ask them for a Front Float Bowl for your carb. You might also be able to find a parts break down on the Internet for your List Number and then get a part number and order it by part number. Also, Crazy Steve is correct about being only two basic styles of Holley bowls. The problem is, if your luck is like mine, I would have the odd ball carb. That’s why I suggested going by list number. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Get the list number off the carb and check. I just replaced the front bowl on mine for exactly the same problem. You’ll probably want a new gasket, too, at which point a rebuild kit might seem like a good idea. Holley 4160 type / List 1850-3 Carb Kit 37-119 Front Bowl 134-101 Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Four bolts hold the bowl on to the body. They’re a couple inches long. If you have enough room to remove the bolts, you can remove the bowl while the carb is on the intake manifold. Stuff a rag under it to catch the gas when you break the seal. Be careful with the transfer tube that feeds the rear bowl, and its o rings, especially if you’re not going to replace them. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I just looked up your carb (List# 9776) on Holley, It takes this bowl: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-134-101 This carb kit should suffice in the seals you need: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-3-2000qft As others have said, don't mess around trying to fix the bowl you have, be careful of the orings on the transfer tube between the two bowls, and no, they do not make a longer fitting because it will block the transfer tube front to back. Make sure you get the accelerator pump lever under the pump arm when reinstalling. Most importantly, dont crank down on any of the fittings or screws. Yes they need to be tight and leak free, but not so tight that things like this occur. Plus if they have been fiddled with alot of the years, sometimes the soft diecast aluminum threads just cant take that abuse by several previous owners. The wrenches you need to fit those fittings you can easily apply 45 + ft lbs of torque to.....thats half way to lug nut torque. Use a gentler hand with carbs and big wrenches. Hope that helps some.
If a new bowl is available at $36., then this is the answer. If the bowl were made out of "unobtanium" then first choice would be a helicoil. If a helicoil were not available in that thread, then a new overlength banjo bolt could be machined with a groove to coincide with the fuel feed passage. Jon
Any good carb shop will probably sell you one for $5-10. asI bet they have a box of them. Swap meet even less. New have already been listed. Always use new steel gaskets (if you buy new from Summit or others remember them too) and a tiny bit of never seize it silver goop on the threads. They don’t need to be that tight to hold 5-7 psi..
The float bowl that Crazy Steve showed the link to is available from all the regular vendors at the same price. You can get it off Amazon prime for that price and save freight or order it in at the local O'Reilly's with a stock order and save shipping and again pay the Holley suggested price. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ruck?q=holley+carburetor+fuel+bowl+kits&pos=1 There is a bit too fancy one available with screws and gasket https://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=134-101
I have a few of them also , still I think . If you can not locate one , and tote the note to get it to you it’s yours, almost free .
Thanks guys, turns out my buddy did have about 5 of those carbs with side hung bowls laying around collecting dust, I guess there was no need to panic, haha.
The Jalopy Journal
