69 327 with ram horns, broke the bolt trying to get it out. it was the only one that didn't just unbolt. Now how do I get it out?
take the manifold off the motor. build up weld on the broke off stud with a tig welder.the heat from the weld should brake loose the stud and make it able to unscrew the stud with a pair of vicegrips.be careful to keep the weld on the stud. please do not try to drill it out! or just send it to me and i can fix it for you. -danny bruce's rod shop 6717 klein cemetery bld c spring,tx.77379
Machine shop should be able to handle it for you. Friend of mine is doing a Buick 430 - 3 broken exhaust manifold bolts. The local place charges $30 each to take care of them but what are you gonna do? 430's and vintage 327's don't grow on trees.
I had the same problem, and went to a local junkyard looking for another. The owner of the yard got it out with a cutting torch. He said the steel of the studs melts at a lower temp then the cast iron of the manifold. He carefully heated the broken off stud, melted/ blew out the stud and we then ran a tap down the threads. It worked, just be careful heating, and cutting and don't get into the manifold.
Just a quick question -- are you talkin that you broke off the stud taking the exhaust off of the manifold or that you broke the bolt off in the head taking the manifold off of the head?
Hay,the post from "hot rod pro"told you the best way,and the EZ-out thing,works this way nearly every time=you try that and then brake off the EZ-out ,so now you can not drill it any more and you've screwed it very bad,next you must take it/toe it/or get some like me come and work on undoing your big screw up with a EZ-out,!!! . I've fix this crap many times after some one screws it up,and it always cost them 10X$ ,then if they had me remove the broke stud befor they #$@#@%& it up,when it's not some one that comes to my shop all the time.. For freinds and custumer it's free if they have not broke a EZ-out off in it. GET SOME REAL HELP,if your asking ,how!!!!!! The Bat Miami
the engine is on the shop floor, the manifold is still bolted to the head the bolt head broke off leaving the bolt sticking out of the head 2" inches? piece of cake first try using Free All penetrant or something just as good, not WD40, never had any luck with that stuff after letting the penetrant soak in for a while gently work the stud back and forth with the vice grips if that doesn't work use some heat warm the bolt up good and hot and let it cool then use the penetrant and vice grips or when it's hot melt some parafin into the threads it will act as a lubricant and work it out with the vice grips if the stud breaks off too short to grab with the vice grips use the build up with weld method
I broke one a few weeks ago. I spent twice as much buying and breaking the easy-outs and chisels as it cost to buy a head gasket and pay the machine shop, which I had to do in the end anyway! If a couple of low buck tricks don't work, take it to the machine shop. They'll get it out, one way or another ,and fix the threads if needed.
I had an exhaust bolt break off clean in a flathead block. Drilled it with a small size drill and used a pipe plug extractor to get it out. Snap-On sells the extractors, but I think they're made by Rigid and sold a plumbing places. They work real good.
I always just drill them out! Actually, I drill as close to the center as possible, with a small drill bit (#28 or so) and go up a little at a time. If it's a bit off center, I don't mind cuz I don't need to save the bolt anyway. Once I'm close to the tap drill size (5/16 drill for the 3/8-16 threads of a SBC), I stop and grab the die grinder with a 1/8" burr on it. Carefully grind through the offending bolt, using lots of lube (JB80 ROCKS!), and cut it up into 3 or four pieces. Dig the pieces out with a pick and run a tap through the hole just to be sure. Had to do this on four bolt holes on the 350 I put in my truck a couple months ago. I didn't break the bolts - looked like the engine had been run missing at least 2 of them for quite a while. Whoever pulled the engine must have broken some too. They are all cleaned out now! HTH, Tim D.
Something's not making sense- you broke the last bolt off but the manifold's still on? If you're going to try heat, heat the area around the hole/threads/boss, not the bolt. I think opening the diameter some does more good than trying to break rust loose. A propane torch might not be hot enough, you might have to use oxy/acet. That's what worked for removing broken bolts from a turbo. Thanks, Kurt
Every broken manifold I've ever seen will come out with a litle heat. That is if it's not cross-threadaed. If it's 2" long it should be easy to grab with some round jaw vise-grips. Heat the head first right near the base of the bolt, the bolt will get red before the casting. Then put on the grips and carefully twist it. Unless it is crossed it will come right out. If it snaps off you will have to drill it. Start with a punch right in the center. 1/8" pilot hole then progressively larger until you can use an extractor. There are stubby extractors out there (i use snap-on) that don't break as easy as an "easy-out". as long as you get the hole centered you can always drill progressively larger then pick out the pieces when you get to the threads. That is an extremely rare case. If you're uneasy about tackling it try to hire a local quality fabricator to make a house call. I'd do it, but your a bit far.MIKE.
not quite...what happens is the cast iron part is much bigger than the bolt, so it can absorb a lot more heat energy without raising it's temperature.
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