My temperature gauge doesn't work. If I run a jumper wire from the lead at the temperature sender to a ground the gauge will max out, so I know it works - but I replaced it any way just in case. I've tried 3 different temperature senders with no change. I'm beginning to think the aluminum intake doesn't conduct electricity well enough to serve as a ground for the sender to work. I didn't use any thread sealer so that isn't the problem. Has anyone else made an electric temperature sender work with an aluminum intake?
Tell us more about the gauge, and the sender. They have to match...what exactly are you using for both?
Exactly. You have to make sure your sending unit is for your gauge . You may have a sender for an idiot light. No worky .
The original sender came with the gauge kit. I'm sure it's not a sender for an idiot light. There's no sender adapter. I've tried running a jumper from the intake to a ground and from the base of the sender, but the needle doesn't budge either way.
Or a jumper cable from the sender body to the neg/ground on the battery. Then start it up. Gauges can do all sorts of weird things also. And a ground in the instrument cluster/gauge is a common problem. The Ohmmeter ^^^^ is your friend here. Also a cheap $3-00 linear potentiometer from "Radio Shack" [o-500 ohms] @Rathbone If you're playing with the gauges in your avatar, good luck finding a sender that works in the correct ohm range [ I tried 3 and gave up and used a 2nd hand GM sender] To Test the Gauge Solder 2 wires to the potentiometer [the centre and 1 outer] and some alligator clips on the other end. Connect the sender wire to 1 clip and ground the other clip. You can now dial the gauge up /down to the running position that you prefer. Now without moving the potentiometer dial carefully disconnect the clips and measure the ohms across it. This is the resistance needed at running temp on the sender unit. To Tune the Gauge to your sender [assuming the sender and ground is OK] Now the cheat method [which I did] Get the car up to running temp, and disconnect the sender wire. Connect the potentiometer [in series] between the sender and sender wire and dial in the gauge needle to where you want it to sit. Measure the ohms across the potentiometer [disconnected] and buy a 15c resistor and solder it into the sender wire Sometimes you need to leave the resistor connected and tee off a ground wire via the potentiometer [parallel] to dial it in. Again measure the ohms across the potentiometer [disconnected] and buy a 15c resistor and solder it into the parallel ground wire [this can be spliced in under the dash] I also used the same potentiometer to test my fuel gauge [by disconnecting the tank sender] one last thing! unless you're using plastic washers under your manifold bolts, It is highly unlikely to be a manifold ground issue [thread sealant on the sender ....Maybe]
Then Jaycar.....If you live in the real world [NZ] I find it highly unlikely that there aren't any electronics stores in the USA
For oil pressure or coolant temp gauges or warning lights, GM tends to use the following terminology. For use with a gauge you need a "sensor" or that can read variable resistance to set the proper reading on the gauge scale. Warning (idiot) lights will need only a "switch" that detects a pre-set temperature or pressure. The "switch" needs to simply open or close a circuit to turn a lamp off or on. The correct terminology may help you get the right part the first time if the vendors follow the same rule-of-thumb in naming their parts.
We still don't know what gauges it is.... No radio shack around here any more. There are electronics stores in big cities, that sell resistors, potentiometers, etc. Some companies specify the resistance of the sending unit, at a couple different temperatures. Since we have no idea what gauge it is, we can't really help with specifics of what it should read. But here's a quick way to troubleshoot: Disconnect the sender wire from the gauge, but leave the other end connected to the sender. Connect an ohm meter to the sending wire, and ground, under the dash. Read the ohm meter. If the number is somewhere between 50 and 2000 Ohms, the sender and it's wiring is probably OK. If it reads zero or infinite resistance, then there's a problem with the sender or the wiring. You can do the check to the sender itself first, of course, before you crawl under the dash.
They're Autometer gauges. Thanks for the help, everyone. This will give me something to work on for a while.
when you're measuring the sender resistance, see if it works like this... "The AutoMeter 100 to 250 degree, short sweep temperature gauge uses a specification of 1123 ohms of resistance to ground to = 100 degrees F, and 65 ohms of resistance to ground to = 250 degrees F. "
RadioShack is still in business, mostly on the internet but there are still privately owned stores in operation. We have one in Prince Frederick. General Wireless Oerations owns the name and company.
The internet is full of that little electronic stuff. I’ve bought pots, resistors, diodes, all kinds of neat stuff. I wouldn’t be surprised if the gauge is bad, Autometer doesn’t seem to be the excellent quality that they used to be, especially the Autogage line. I’ve had trouble with both. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your engine should have a ground wire. Usually a webbing type from a rocker cover bolt to the body on the firewall. Many are long gone. If using regular wire, an awg #12 extra flexible is minimum. I would use an #8.
I had a problem with an electric fuel pump till I remembered about the ground strap.... It solved my problem....
Aluminum isnt the problem. Ive got mine and its working fine. many (if not all) newer EFI motors have aluminum intakes with senors in them. they all work fine. id lead to your sender or gauge being bad
Has the Temp gauge ever worked or shown signs of life? bchctybob may be on to something. Might be a defective gauge. It doesn't take much incorrect electricity to wreck one.
It has never worked correctly, but if I connect the lead to a ground instead of the sender it will max out the gauge. There is coolant in contact with the sender. I've checked the engine with an infra-red thermometer and it operates in a normal range. I've tried 3 different senders and this is the second brand new gauge. All the other gauges and gauge lights work fine, so the ground is good.
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