Hot Rods Head Gaskets for a blower

I want a good set of heads gaskets along with intake manifold gaskets, for a Gen I 350 SBC.
Aluminum heads. Can you guys recommend someone....Thanks Mike

 

Cometic

 

Felpro 1003, if zero decked

 

NOT zero decked

 

If you plan on running any boost go copper. Cut receiver grooves in the block. Cut a receiver groove for stainless wire rings. Otherwise you will blow out any composite gasket. Boost changes everything.

 

Brian just said the exact thing I was going to. And while your doing it maybe install head studs. Then if you decide to lean on it you won't have to guess if the head gasket situation will handle it. Lippy

 

Use beryllium-copper wire to O-ring the block and heat treat harden the b-c after it's in the groove.

 

Lippy good call I forgot to mention that. If it's a street car with water in it use the GM white silicone on both sides of the copper gasket. Don't get carried away. You don't want it closing off the water and oil holes.

 

The BBC in my Avatar is running a BDS 671 blower, 10 over, Aluminum heads, ARP head bolts and just plain jane Felpro Blues...……………….

 

My 392 hemi is 6% under Aluminum heads with studs and also run Felpro gaskets....No O-rings...been on there for 6 thousand miles and no issues...

 

In my mind "good" is something that fits your requirements - which we really don't know. Based on the 350 and the 'Street Bully" tag, I'm guessing street? How much boost, and what blower? A street blower could be driven 10% under or 10% over. Some guys call a turbo a blower, but I don't know why. If so, is it intercooled? You will note the wide range of responses so far depending if the are street guys, or hard core race guys. So give some detail of your application to get the best feedback.

 

Maybe I missed something. I don't see any mention of a blower in the OP.

 

I don't know anything about blower motors, but if this is NA then you need to pay attention to depth of piston from deck and quench distance. Aluminum heads need a composite gaskets. If not zero decked you are going to have trouble maintaining a good quench distance and be able to use a composite gasket. There is a little more to aluminum heads than just throwing them on there.

 

Cometics and ARP head studs!
Personally used this combo to seal 20 pounds of boost.

 

"BLOWER" used in thread heading!

 

MLS gasket from Cometic or Felpro. Use head studs with sealant on the lower stud threads.
If you dont have a nice finish on the head or block, ignore my advice and go with composition head gaskets from felpro.

 

The responses on over drive and under drive mean nothing. The style; condition and size of the blower along with manifold and head volumes all play a part when it comes to boost. You can take the same blower running the same pulleys for ten engines and get ten different boost readings. Over and under drive only gives a false sense of what's really going on. A used up old worn out bus blower can run 30 percent over drive and make no boost. A brand new littlefield retro running straight up can make alot of boost on a small port engine. So don't be fooled by the pulleys. If you plan on making boost and not just throwing a 85 pound lump of noisy aluminum on your engine follow the guidelines listed above.

 

It depends on how much boost you are going to run as to how much you have to worry about your headgasket selection. Until that question is answered, we are all just pissing in the wind.

-Abone.

 

We are talking real boost numbers. The only way to get that is to drill the manifold for a boost gauge. Having or borrowing a assortment of pulleys to experiment with is the only way to do this. Keeping a eye on the tooth count will help avoid having to get several length belts.

 

We don't know if he is at 6 lbs, where headgasket choice isn't as critical or 20 lbs where it is life or death.

A ballpark number could eliminate alot of speculation.

-Abone.

 

Abone is dead-nuts-correct. We MUST know the blower PSI that is being planned for, and it would be beneficial to know the rest of the engines combination. Street only engine? Drag only?

 

The target boost level would be helpful. Now if the car is run and the boost on the initial hit is too high major engine damage can occur. Broken pistons being one.
There has been no mention so far on controlling combustion temps. As boost levels go up timing needs to be retarded. The extra boost creates intense temperatures that need to be controlled. A msd digital boost retard box works great. A good average to follow is 1-2 degrees retard for each pound of boost. Nitrous and turbo cars use the same technology.
If a retard box is not used the timing needs to be set retarded all the time thus running like crap until the boost comes on which is rare street driving.

 

The other option is a methanol injector. At a pre determined boost level meth is injected into the manifold cooling the combustion chamber. They work great. Winshield washer fluid with the higher alchohol level works to.

 

OK Guys Sorry it took so long to reply.....This is a street motor only. my cam shaft is only good for 8 psi of boost.
I will never see the track, and if I did more than likely it would scare the living s**t out of me...Thank You

 

When I dropped my hemi off at Rogers shop, I brought my copper gaskets with and he said that we wont be using them. That is why I said Cometic.

Tony

 

Use Fel Pro #1003 Perma-Torque head gaskets and Fel Pro #1205 Intake Manifold Gasket set.
Only use Permatex "Right Stuff" on the china rails at both ends of the intake manifold.
And you'll be set to go.

 

Thank you

 

Your welcome.

 

Where in the heck was this information obtained?

 

Performance Improvements speed shop