Customs Cooling fan type, mechanical or electric?

Maybe your issue is also the hot air not getting out. One guy put louvers in the front fenders so the air could leave and his temps went down a lot...

 

The answers to your problems have been posted and somehow you don’t seem to be willing to do it.

1) a water pump riser to get the fan to where it will be effective.
2) remove the pusher electric fan.
3) get a 6 blade rigid blade race fan like this one from Derale.

4) get a fan spacer that will place the fan an inch from the rad.

5) a fan shroud that covers the whole rad.

I solved my issue with heat on my RPU with the Derale 6 blade fan and spacing it 3/4” from the rad.
I’m only running a 13” fan because my rad is small but the Derale fan moves a lot of air.

I have a shroud that I built while trying to make the flex fan work but I haven’t installed it because I don’t really need it now.

https://derale.com/product-footer/b...-dyno-cool-straight-blade-electric-fan-detail

Ignore the electric fan thing in the link, it will take you to the rigid race fans.
I ordered all my stuff from Summit, they’re the best.

 

The shroud you made will not work because it does not cover the entire core. The hottest part of the radiator is not getting air flow.

The fan needs to be positioned properly 1/2 to 2/3 back from lip and the pusher fan is probably blocking air flow. That thick core radiator needs to have proper air flow, perhaps a Zips water pump setup would allow a larger fan.

All the air flow needs to be drawn through all of the core.

 

Lets see, your assumption that I am not willing to "do it" is not correct. I am gleaning and learning here and researching everything that is mention here. I will eventually put something together. Mundane life kind of gets in the way so things are not happening fast.
1) The riser idea looks good but to spendy.
2) The pusher fan will come off once I get a plan.
3) Thanks for the steel fan link, I have been shopping around for one, either way this will be a change. I would have to buy their 13 inch, fifteen is to big and they dont make a 14" "Derale"
4) The current fan spacer is one inch. If I move back to accommodate a larger fan the blades will get into the belts and other pulleys than it will be to far away anyway... The bottom blade is right at an inch and a quarter from the rad, the top blade is 1 1/2 from the rad...So I guess moving and extra 1/4 of an inch is doable...
5) As far as the shroud goes I understand the physics of it and I agree. . I saw how others on this forum got away with something similar to mine by not covering the whole rad. I was just giving it a try ...inexpensive experiment. If worked great, done, if not move on, cost was five bucks.

Thanks everyone for the input and ideas, much appreciated!

 

If you can't fit a 18" or something close fan in there, you should probably go electric. The pump riser would let you put in a big fan.

 

Squirrel is right, like it or not that’s what you need, your fan is too low to work properly and your rad is too big for a 13” fan way down low.

Too expensive or spendy as you put it.
How much is too much to fix something the right way?

It’s always amazing when guys will spend whatever it takes for some parts of a project and then balk at something to solve something important like cooling or brakes

 

Just learning and reading and looking at all options, will do what works, not a some guy.

 

Man I don’t know anymore,,,
They changed a bunch !!
30 min plus hold times
Couple extra days shipping.
48 hrs plus for call backs

they used to be for sure, hope they go back

 

With that shroud you are giving away alot of radiator that does not see air flow sitting still.

 

I think it's a sign of the times however I just recently placed an order for a set of Winters helical gears and some other parts and I got through promptly to call in the order and FedEx dropped my package off the other day.

I had the usual wait for them to get the parts from Winters, but overall it was even faster than what I expected.

 

My thought is that whatever it takes to fix a design problem cost becomes secondary.

I have fixed cooling problems by moving the engine back in one case or the radiator ahead in another both involving some serious metal fab. Sometimes the original swap is just wrong and putting band-aids on is just avoiding the issues.

A Zips setup, a bigger fan and a shroud seem pretty straight forward in this case.
Fixing problems is not cheap.

 

This is also something to think about. Take your rad cap off lower the level about an inch, start the engine and watch the water, after you are sure the thermostat is open, do you see any water movement? If none to very slight slightly increase your rpm maybe 100extra, if you now see good water movement.... speed up the pump with a smaller pulley. This fixed an idle heat up problem I fought for 2 years. Now gone, my car has a 170 thermostat and runs right at it. I left the shroud and 6 blade fan on that install while chasing the problem. Good luck.

 

If you end up going electric puller, that fan/shroud assembly that Willys36 posted in the 4th post is a better choice than almost all aftermarket units. I can get dimensions if you're needing. I'm remembering the overall thickness is about 5 1/2"They are getting hard to find because so many late model Mustang guys have used them to replace the factory units because they move so much air. You will need a 60 amp relay/fuse setup. Ron Francis has them. Mine almost never runs because my engine runs at 190, and the Vintage air trinary switch calls for it to come on at 195(?). I recently installed a switch so I could turn it on manually if I was anticipating a potential overheat (traffic jam). Replacement motors and connectors are available @ Rockauto.
donor cars: 93-98 Lincoln Mark VIII. Not sure about other model Lincolns like the easier to find towncars.

 

I cooled the small block in my '62 Willys truck with a 12" spal-fan and a mustang radiator.
I have cooled the Timex small block with an 11" spal-type fan and an auxiliary 11" fan for towing a stock GM cross flow.

I don't know how far your fan is now from the radiator, an electric is easier in the jeep, but you should be able to cool it with a mechanical fan. it is important to have a good water pump. One that actually pumps water. I use a flow cooler they are a little more expensive than the original rebuilt from the "Zone" pump but they don't have a warn smooth impeller either.

 

Everyone has their own opinions but I have read and believe it is true that push fans produce about 35% of the cooling that the same pull fan would. I am not impressed with push fans and will be opting to remove my mechanical fan for a high quality, 2500 CFM two speed electric.

On a flathead your choice of fan in arcane, too small too slow to do too much.

 

Mechanical Fans get the job done. Use an electric fan and you'll get stuck someplace when it quits, so keep a second one in the trunk. Oh Ya, don't forget the high output alternator you'll need to run the electric fan.

 

Build a shroud that has the whole radiator inside I still think you have to much area of the radiator open

 

I have a pusher fan in the 38 Chevy, it doesn't work that well, I modified the org shroud in the Studebaker so I could use a mechanical fan, much happier with that.