1935-1936 Ford pickup tech for the masses

Let me see if I can scrounge one up. Remind me if I don't do it. My brain only holds so much junk and then it gets pushed out.

 

Can you describe how the door dovetail (female) attaches to the jamb? My passenger side has a bracket with the two springs and moveable metal pieces but my driver side is missing the bracket, springs, and metal pieces but there is an opening in the jamb. I can’t see any screw holes on either side. Any help on this would be appreciated.

 

What dimensions do you want? My pickup is a 1936. All my original wood is still in place and visible from the bottom. Basically, it's 3/4" planks of various widths bolted to the steel cross-members that connect to the frame. The original wood looks like strong packing crate wood and there are gaps between the planks, probably for frame flex. Over that is the metal bed box riveted together as a single bed unit. It's pretty simple and rudimentary.

In 1967 I fitted a piece of 1/2 or 5/8" exterior plywood over the floor of the bed, from the top down, to even out the dents and distortion of my original bed assembly. That made things flat and smooth, then I covered that with more decorative wood for appearance. All the original bed assembly is still under the original bed box. My current plan is to remove the 1967 plywood and replace with some beautiful old T&G solid mahogany flooring material I found in the garage rafters of an estate sale.

If you want to narrow down your question a little, I'll go under my truck and take some photos, measurements, etc. for you. I do not plan to remove the bed to the frame. No need to go that far for me. I did that in the 60's and it's still in good shape.

What is at the bottom of the sides of your bed now? Is the original structure still in place on the frame?

 

There's also the 2 blocks in the rear.

 

I believe the 2 rear blocks are what I am looking for. Is there any other bed-to-frame or cab-to-frame wood? I will attach a picture of the pieces I am looking for measurements on.

 

A = 6 1/4
B= 2 3/8
C= 1 1/2
D= 1/8
E= 4
F= 5 7/8
G= 1 3/8
H= 2 3/16
I= at least 1/2 based on my biggest drill bit, maybe 5/16, thru hole diameter.
J= 3/4? It is difficult to measure but appears to be centered on H and on C.
Most measurements using a metal ruler.
Hope this is useful.


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So finally got my truck back from the family farm a couple weeks ago.




Looking it over there is this hole in the cowl.

And after looking at other people trucks I've see a very similar hole in a handful of truck as well.
Anyone know what it would have been for? It looks like someone drilled a series of pilot holes close together and then knocked out the center.

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anything to do with fitting a heater?

 

Looks pretty good!

 

Aftermarket heater.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking. But when I saw the similar holes in other people's trucks I wasn't sure

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Heater for sure. Good looking truck!

 

Anyone every try to fit a 1935 hood on a 1937 truck. Looking to see how it was done.

 

The cowl needs surgery to match the curved edge on the back of the 35 hood and you have to modify the cowl vent. I put a 37 split windshield on a 35 cab, to get the same result on the cowl end. Looks really good. I can't say how the front works out as I used a Packard grille. You should still be able to search for my build thread on here.

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Not much stock stuff left on mine.


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Good work. This is the kind of info I look for all the time.

 

Here's the 35 I just finished up for my father. Delivering it early next week. Bought it in April - it had been given the rat rod treatment - which basically means it ran and drove, but it wouldn't have for very long and a bunch of crappy work had been done. No fenders, hood sides, leaky gas tank, channeled bed, rubber biscuit cab mounts (with count'em - 3 whole bolts holding the cab to the frame!), hacked together exhaust, no bumpers... anyway - picture 5 months of every night and every weekend fixing and getting back towards more original.

Last picture is the inspiration, my grandfather's delivery truck with my oldest uncle - somewhere in the late 40's
Anyway - here's a few pics and walkaround

IMG_5769 by JaxChevy posted Sep 23, 2021 at 9:03 AM

IMG_5761 by JaxChevy posted Sep 23, 2021 at 9:03 AM

IMG_5789 by JaxChevy posted Sep 23, 2021 at 9:03 AM

IMG_5770 by JaxChevy posted Sep 17, 2021 at 8:40 AM

Tremble's Dairy by JaxChevy posted Sep 23, 2021 at 9:06 AM

 

That turned out good Jax.

 

Delivery worked out pretty well. Transported the truck via a fantastic service...from Jacksonville Fl to Portland Me. I flew into Portland and drove the truck 7 hours home to Moncton, NB, Canada. A couple of minor delays and one loose distributor bolt meant I ended up driving Maine Route 9 well after sunset...if any of you know that route, it's a long lonely, very DARK road through nowhere! Got to customs around 10pm...they had their fun with me and I got back on the road after a nice thorough check through. Drove a couple more hours, curled up in the front seat of a 35 pickup for a couple hours and got back on the road near sunrise. Dad was pretty excited and it was a nice visit with my folks for a few days before flying home. Would you believe not a single photo from the delivery! I was pretty exhausted so we'll take some pics next time I get home.

 

In everyones experience has anyone noticed differences from left side to right side on how sheet metal fits, general shapes, clearances, etc? I get one side lined up and everything looks good but when I work on the opposite side things aren't as good, then I spend time trying to split the difference but then it doesn't seem right. Like where the bed side panel rests on the running board. One side will be even and parallel with the raised ribs of the running board. But the other side is not aligned with the ribs, it tapers from narrow to wider from the cab to fender. I think I have seen other trucks in pictures with the same issue but not a 100%. I know old cars have issues and its probably the problem, but I have also read that some of the early vehicles have different sized parts and wonder how much time they spent on a work truck to make everything even and consistent? And how consistent parts where made to match left and right?

 

Fit and finish was never a priority for utilitarian vehicles. I haven’t noticed any inherit differences from parts one side to the other.

 

Thanks Roothawg. I figure if any one would know it would be you.

 

They used oil impregnated cloth for spacers I have found there was never a standard number used. Sometimes I have found a couple stacked vs a single.

 

Sometimes its hard to tell whats original and whats been "improved" by someone. Been trying to look at pictures of original or restored trucks verses customs or hot rods that have had extensive body work with nice paint. Well keep at it.

 

Another question regarding the rear fenders. If you look at the back of the truck and the rear edge of the fenders, are they supposed to be parallel to the floor? Mine look like the outside corner is lower and makes them look kinda droopy. The line drawing in post#1 shows them even and "square" to the bed. If you shim out the bottom of the fender then you end up with a gap between the fender and bed side. Was thinking maybe there twisted?

 

They should be parallel. They did get twisted a lot. Usually they cracked right in the center of the radius, then poorly repaired and welded with whatever was laying around. Coat hangers were the weapon of choice.

You should be able to set the fenders on the ground and they should be somewhat square. There should be no shimming required.

 

Thats what I figured but wanted to confirm it. That green truck is so slick. I wonder how much time they have in just the body work to make it so nice. I don't know if its a shadow or something but the bottom of the drivers door looks like its not as tight as the top? Might just not be closed all the way against the inner bumpers.

 

front fender braces
----
they also have a tube running from the head light, through the middle part of the brace and then down to the front cross-member
hense a 35 6 and 7 has 3 holes here whilst a 40 has one,
the tube is flattened and a bolt through each side

probably 3/4'' heavy wall tube

'' IF you don't have them''
I think they triangulate the fender brace and add much needed stiffening.
this is crap, mine were simply bodged for strength

 

The front fender braces are getting harder to come by. They repop the rear ones but the big heft one under the headlights are scarce.

I just paid a premium for the front inner fenders. I have a few raunchy sets, but the good ones are almost non-existent. I needed a template to repair my old ones as well. I used my last good set on the produce truck.