about 24 years ago i had my '53 Henry J Gasser painted at Earl Sheib with an acrylic white paint. i did all the body work and primed it with Rust-Oleum white. it has never pealed or lifted or anything. wash it and it still shines. i am building a '52 chevy bobber truck and just want to paint it red Rust-Oleum top coat. my question is, if i painted something this way and used red Rust-Oleum top coat and sprayed acrylic clear over that, would there be any problems. the reason for this is, i am getting it lettered and want to clear over it. i guess in other words, is the Rust-Oleum primer different from the top coat since the primer didn't seem to care about the acrylic white top coat on my J. please don't give me all the crap about it's not paint or just pay thousands of dollars to get it painted, just to drive it and get rock chips and everything else on the road thrown at it. it's not a show car. i drive the wheels off of everything i build.
Hey, Gary; I don't know, but why not use a hardener in the Rustoleum paints, & just top coat it w/their clear, incl the hardener? Believe they have at least one version, in the Commercial stuff. Do you want to use acrylic clear over the lettering, too? Don't see why that would matter, if all was hardened 1st. Nothing should be able to work through. Guess I'll find out soon, on this thread. . Marcus...
Old Earl had additives in his paints that softens the base paint witch made it stick..it would bind to just about any base paint..had a few cars painted by them...till they sold and the paint jobs turned to crap...stick to one type of paint i.e enamel.... lacquer for base top and clear...are you painting it your self from start to finish??? or going to sublet the final paint job of so ask the paint shop paints have changed alot in the past decade or two
I did a winter beater with rust-oleum once, it looked great for the first year then started to fade and by year three it looked bad. That was with no hardener or additives, I would think that would help a lot with longevity. And the car sat outside 24/7
My yard art was ratttlecanned with red rustoleum, no prep, care or maintenance and it’s been outside for at least 7 years, headlights even longer than that. Looks like some areas are holding up better than others. I wonder what a buffing would do?
I would do a test panel, paint formulas change often with new laws and what was old isn't always new. I've put Rustoleum clear over Rustoleum and nothing happened, I've also had it crinkle, strange stuff at times. Another thing is Rustoleum's "red oxide" primer is more brown when it dries, another reason to do a test panel. Here I painted the pumpkin with a brush then when dry sprayed their rattle can clear over it.
I painted an air compressor rustoleum orange and it faded to pink. The yellow rustoleum has gotten flat but still looks good years later
Forgot the crinkle photos, this was all rattle can by the way. The white had 48 hrs dry time, red was 24 hrs and the blue was about 4 hrs dry time.
Reds, Oranges and Yellows will oxidize faster than white, black, pastels, etc. Usually the cheaper the paint the faster it oxidizes. I did the wood wheels on my '22 DB Screenside with Rustoleum Red quite a few years ago and it has held up very well, but it does stay inside when not in use. I used a wood primer on the spokes and primer for metal on the steel hub and fellos. Dave
First off, Restoleum reformulated at the end of 2018, thanks to the gove. What it was before that, no longer is. Don't expect the new stuff to hold up to weather conditions more than a few years. That out of the way, be sure you pay attentions to the drying times and recoat times on any modern paint (rattle can or gallon), most have a short recoat time, with a long wait afterwards. IE: Recoat within an hour, or after 48 hours. Sanding time is often more then 2 weeks after. There is also a specific window you can add a clear coat, and a long specific wait after the first window. Acrylic Enamel clear may work on the Rustoleum, but I sure would want to test it first. From experience: If you paint with Rustoleum and want to have it lettered, wait at least a month, two months would be better. If its being lettered with One-Shot, you may want to skip the clear coat all together, or get it clear coated before its lettered, then after the window time, do the lettering, then leave it alone. I used to paint everything with Valspar Anti-rust oil base paint. When I redid my coupe this past winter, I painted it with Acrylic Enamel. The last thing I painted with a 2019 formulated cheap paint was fading within 3 months. No more. Gene
I painted my car trailer with blue rustoleum last year and it is starting to go flat on me. I have enough left over to shoot it again and maybe this time I will clear it afterward maybe not. I am trying to swing an enclosed trailer next year.
i am not sure you all understood what i was saying. i know about the oxidizing with it but, what i wanted to know is, will the acrylic enamel reducer screw with the rust-oleum top coat. the car will be out of the sun for as long as i want. another thing is, one shot is an enamel too. i have used one shot and it does crack and wither in the sun without some kind of clear on it. why would a clear coat mess with that? why do the race cars with lettering not have a problem. even if they are using the newer clear coat paints, urethanes and such? yes, i will do a test piece first though. i have found that rust-oleum using japan dryer hardener does keep it from oxidizing as fast. thanks for the replies.
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