Technical Help needed on 2 barrel intake broken studs

Working on my 56 Cameo. The front 2 carb mounting studs broke on my intake. They appear to be a part of the intake and not threaded studs. Can anyone give insight into what are my options? Another intake, weld new studs, other?

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Find a nuts that fit over the nubs. Weld them on solidly. Wait for it to cool off.

The nuts will give you something to put a wrench on, and the heat will help break them free.

 

They are threaded into the manifold like gimpyshotrods said. His method works good.

 

Some liquid wrench penetrant works well on those too. Give it a few days to soak in. Shock the rust bonds by banging on them with a hammer. Spray some more.

 

This might be obvious but, if the intake is still on the engine block those ports off so you don't drop anything down them while working.

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When you weld the studs on, drip wax onto the base of the studs, as it cools, the heat pulls the wax into the threads. I assume oil would also wick in, I've had good luck with wax.

 

Your exhaust cross over is packed full of carbon and needs to be cleaned out also

 

Boy that brings me back. My 67 Impala with the 283 had the exhaust heat under the base of my carb eat my two front studs too. That caused a bit of a vacuum leak. The 17 year old kid, I was, just put a couple of fiber washers with nuts and bolts blocking off the holes. It actually worked! What the heck did I know?

 

If what has been suggested above doesn't work, you will need to drill them out and re-tap.

First grind off what is left of the studs. Find a spare carburetor base and use it as a drill fixture. Use the existing studs to locate the base and drill through the base into the manifold. Use a drill the same size as the hole in the carburetor base and start a new hole. Once the point of the drill has started, drop back to a smaller drill. Something under the tap drill size. You might be able to use an "easy-out" which has a left hand twist and will grab the inside of the hole inside the stud. Or just drill down into the stud and run a tap in to remove the remaining metal.

 

Use Gimpy's method.............IT WORKS! Use an electric welder, not a torch.

Do not even think about the possibility of considering trying to use a "not so easy out". Once you break the very brittle not so easy out, the manifold, unless it is extremely rare and valuable, is a boat anchor. If the manifold is extremely rare and valuable, then a broken not so easy out can be removed by a really well-machined machine shop.

Jon.

 

If you weld a nut on, wait a short time (maybe a minute), and squirt a little oil under the nut, and see if it turns without much force on a wrench. If it does not, then let it cool off for fifteen minutes, then heat the nut/stud red hot again with a torch, a little more oil, try again. Repeat this process till it gets free. A rusty 5/16" stud won't take much torque before it breaks off again, and you really really don't want to break it off.

 

If it was me, I would use this as a reason to upgrade to a performance manifold and a 4bbl...
On the other hand, if you're keeping it stock, follow the advice offered previously.

 

Because the heat from the crossover can weaken the cast iron around those front studs, sometimes it is necessary to go oversize. Drill and helicoil if necessary. There are also oversize studs available from some suppliers with 3/8 thread in the short end and 5/16 in the long end. They let you drill oversize without the cost of a helicoil set.

 

Actually, they can be blown out with a torch, I've had to do it several times. The easy out material is very hard and brittle and will melt and blow out of the threads. If it's a blind hole it makes it harder, but still doable.

 

Easi outs should be called “ Your fucked haha”

try gimpys and squirrels advice, weld on some nuts lots of heat and try, gingerly, it’s a 5/16 stud.


If that fails then cut the studs off flush to the manifold and secure the manifold in a drill press and drill them out. Re tap, Heli coil or over size studs are your options

Good luck.


Easi outs have saved my bacon many times, have also done sweet nothing after drilling and tapping them in, and I’ve broken 2........ that sucked big time !!

 

What Squirrel said X2, the heat and cool cycles with wax/penetrant seems to do the trick.
now if you wanted a stock upgrade I've got an old early four barrel cast iron manifold

 

In addition to welding on nuts, heat the studs to cherry red before you turn them out.

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Basically I agree with Squirrel, but I would take a torch and heat the manifold around one stud and wave the torch over the stud till it gets red too. DON'T melt the stud. Let it cool some and get a nut that drops over the stud and mig weld it to the stud. Dropping over protects the manifold and gives the best weld surface. The studs appear to be long enough, so don't try vice grips as they may break little parts off and leave less to weld to. Then do exactly what squirrel said.
From my experience easy outs seldom live up to their name when the broken part has been in place for years. Drilling studs is my absolute last choice because the drill almost always goes off center and ruins the threads. If it is a rare manifold, machine shops often have a machine that can burn the old stud out and usually doesn't harm the threads.
As far as doing it yourself, heat is your best friend for separating the bond. Lastly you could throw the manifold in a plastic tub with citric acid in it and let it soak for a month and then try again............

Disentigrator Machine: (skip to 5 minute mark)

 

Squirrels method is the way to go, forget trying to get the studs out when they are hot, things expand. By heating and cooling several times, things expand and contract, causing the rust bond to break. It’s called “upsetting” a fastener.


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I'll offer a slight variation on the 'weld a nut on' to remove the stud.
This is 'the' method when the stud is broken nearly flush, even slightly recessed.
As your stud is short it will sit deep in whatever nut you select and it will be difficult to get a good weld. My usual route is to first place a thick, large diameter, washer over the stubby and then weld it to the stud. This is the first heat cycle. As others have mentioned, run some beeswax into the area.
Next find a tall nut or a larger nut, maybe 1/2", and weld it to the washer. A large nut will allow welding inside. Second heat cycle, more bees wax.

Be sure to cover the throttle bores with a piece of metal.

 

When you get it red hot, dousing it with water helps sometimes. I have never had much luck with the wax but I keep trying.

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They actually part of the intake now, an ancient welding technique called corrosion.

This nuts welded on works like a champ. You really need to heat the devil out of the intake prior to trying to remove the old studs. Red hot heat the devil out of it.

 

IF welding on a nut does not break them loose, DO NOT cut the stud flush as suggested without trying this: Use a oxy-fuel torch to heat up the manifold area around the stud to a DULL RED. No hotter than that. use vice-grips to turn the stud while the area is still hot. This is enlarging the hole around the stud so it spins more easily.

 

See the above. If i was doing it I would heat the stud red hot, After it cools use vice grips very close as you can get to the manifold surface. If that doesn't work, go for the more involved methods. Removing broken studs was part of my job in an earlier life. Mostly I drilled them close enough to collapse them and then run a tap through, If it got to big I put in a heil-coil

 

The ONLY thing I can add, is the old Oxy-Acetalene torch blow-out method. Using a cutting tip, the broken fastener is heated red hot, then a blast of oxygen is used to blow out the remnants of the fastener. You'd have to be especially careful with things still on the engine and block everything off. What's the switch on the manifold for; an old overdrive setup? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

LOL me too. The Buick garage in the city, they had lots of people who applied too much torque to things. never ever give a monkey an impact.