I've soaked paper towels in citric acid solution and pressed it onto surfaces and it worked great! Just make sure to check it for drying out, might have to spray them down or cover with plastic wrap. That would work pretty well for cylider bore. Oh and make sure that paper towels don't have any kind of design on them i used the blue shop towels from the parts store. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There's the brakes @Tim was talking about. This was 18 hrs in the acid. Light coat of Gibbs to help with flash rust. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
WOW!! I'm sold.....two engines headed to citric acid bath....along with anything else I have laying around that needs a nice clean up.
Pulled it this morning and as it looked over cat stuck fans in it to dry. After a few hours I noticed the thermometer in my porch read 100 deg so I stuck it in there. pulled the hood shelves and you can see the rust metal, the clean metal and the remaining black paint. fluod is very dirt and murky now most likely on account of these very rusty headlights that I dunked to see if maybe they’d be good for parts. I’ll stick the hood shelves back in and see if the dark solution will still strip it. You can see the line on the trans were the fresh clean surfaces for some flash from siting above the solution to do the bell. also everything is nice and lose! Should be easy to take all the way apart
Yeah I’m happy with it. Gonna take some sand paper to one little spot inside and then put some oil over it. Then throw some primer on it til I get to building the trans. which now I want to do because the case looks so clean lol
Dipped the other side of the hood shelves and the crusty head lights. I had turned them so the badges would clean up but was surprised that even in this dang near black liquid that no longer puts off any noise or bubbles they cleaned up pretty good. You can see where the water line is on them super obviously. I did use a wet rag and wipe them down when pulling them and the rust just sluffed right off. im letting the good set of lights soak with some kroil so I can get the bezel screws out and get them apart but this has got me excited to see how they clean up. Can clearly read the stamped numbers and everything. Pretty stoked
I bumped an old thread but here is the link. PDF has the info for you. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-motors-to-fit-original-heaters.996757/page-2
Took the 46’ out and dropped the hood shelf’s and some sheet to my buddy Ryan to patch up some holes. Almost every single hole for the hood latch’s were slotted or torn in some manor. I marked enough of the good ones to use as a land mark and he’ll fill the others in solid. then I’ll use a latch to Mark where each hole needs to be and re drill them. i think this weekend I’m going to cut the screws that hold the trim ring/ band tight to the bucket on my good head lights so I can take them apart and toss them in a new bucket of acid. Hoping after that some vice grips will let me twist out the remnant screw parts after the fact. Hopefully the only this they’ll need is a dent in the button of one knocked out and some new studs put in. Which after soaking the others makes it pretty obvious how I’ll go about that.
Alright got the tub cleaned out yeesh! That’s gross. Cut the screw on the bezels and got both buckets apart. The damage I’m seeing looks better than I had expected. Sprayed them off with the hose and stuck them in a 5 gallon bucket with a toss or two of acid flakes. Left it outside guess we’ll see what they look like tonight! choose the bucket this time because I can submerge the entire bucket in one shot instead of having to flip them around. I probably should have waited till I had gathered up more random shit to toss in there to make good use of the mixture but I’m sure I’ll come across something the next few days
So 24 hours in the soak and maybe 20 minutes wiping them down, hosing them off and drying them. I can actually see marks inside the buckets that show how they were made. you can also see a ton of places where these were plated at one time. The inside the bucket is where I see it the most. Don’t know if it was chrome but it was.. something. So the damage that needs repaired comes down to one bucket having a ding in the top and the bottom pushed up. I believe a shed fell on this car in last years big tornado. So it’s likely those both happened at the same time. the mount clearly has been broken and dicked with before and handy enough it’s the one that needs a new stuff anyways so I don’t ave to feel bad cutting a good part up to get it swapped. Both trim/‘retaining rings have rust threw from water collecting at the bottom id guess. The metal still feels thick it’s just the high/low spots of the pit that are popping threw not the entire thing getting thin. I put it together and the part that has the holes doesn’t seem to touch anything so I might jist fill it with some all metal/ J.B. weld from the back side and sand it even. Call it a day. anyhow they are clean and ready to be messed with
I guess it guarantees the rust is gonzo right down into the seams for welding or otherwise but us poor sods with rust belt metal constantly face this challenging reality...its nice to have a kinder gentler acid mix as well that delivers the magic bullet...
Man it was hot today! I stayed my ass inside but I did get some running boards from @Austin kays when he grabbed some parts for @porknbeaner pretty sure they are 30’ Chevy. They are about an inch or so to long, the front is under an inch to wide and the back in maybe 1.75 to wide. Thinking I’ll look at the “looking for” adds before I cut them shorter, narrow them and take the taper out of them. Seems like maybe chevys might be harder to come across so I don’t want to jump the gun and cut them up also started working on getting the old tires off the wheels I got a little bit ago for the spare tires. Cut the valve stems off and got them empty and got one bead busted. I think I’m going to take a jig saw to the rubber and make it easier to get off the wheel. They are dry rotted enough that I jumped on the side wall and it crackled both physically and audibly shouldn’t take to much to get them off once they start
Still can’t believe a sbc is this close. Sat the gasket next to the head and it’s so ridiculously close. A sbc header u-build-it should be perfect...
I'm still working on my header, the Fenton Black Widow. The 153 ports are taller than the small block but I can make it work. I think any small block tube header could be made to work.
I have decided to use one of the Chevy 4 cylinder header flanges available on eBay and weld the Fenton sbc header to it. I'll do the port matching/transition going through the flange. Pictures soon I hope.
My flanges and pipes should be here in a few days. I’ll have to see what they actually look like in person but I think they should work with pretty minimal work/ welding
Little mock up. Looks like outside of minor flange modifications I just need to shorten one of the center primaries vertically and trim the ends. I need the center primary’s to stack on top of each other instead of side by side as they intended because I have to have them both dump down immediately to clear the intake manifold. You might be able to see some blue tape on those two. That’s where I think they need cut.
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