Last generation 235 has low oil pressure from either neglect or some sort of failure. Doing better now that I removed external oil filter. Sad to say it has both metallic and bronze particles in it for an engine that doesn't knock or smoke and run's so damn well. I'm pulling it out for a full inspection. In the mean time anyone care to play a guessing game of why the oil pressure while driving at a cruz will go up 15 psi when letting off the gas pedal (it will do this at a stand still as well). I'm thinking thrust issue's? It is a stick car after all.
Funny the things that come to mind while showering or doing the dishes as I just finished. Could it be hemorrhaging from cam bearings? The gear set may be shedding a clue? Is it eating up the trust plate? Note this is a found photo and not engine in question.
I don't know, JG. I had an old 327 that would read very high oil pressure when it was really low on oil.
I was just drinking milk while rocking in my chair when another moment came to me. Less stress upon pressure relief spring.
OK no more moments for me so talk amongst yourselves. Quite time with self and the neighbors is over. I'm going into the garage.
^^^^^ That's a scary thought! I didn't even remember how it was held in. Been a long time since I opened the only one I ever did.
Probably wide main clearances. I seem to remember that happening to a lot of them back in the day. My theory is this: when under load the pressure on the top of pistons forces the crank to the bottom of the block's bore. Oil supply is from the top so lots of loss. when coasting with no load that pressure is relieved and the clearance is now at the bottom hence higher oil pressure due to less clearance and resulting loss from the top. Of course, I could be full of it. Let us know what you find.
I will. I won't be getting to it for a couple of weeks though. Need to move it to my house where heavy equipment is and storage of a dead horse is better suited.
I heard of and have had a 3S in a travel trailer. But never took dishes in with me. I have however taken dish soap into the shower with me.
I was poor folk in school, out of sham-poo, thought I had it figured out. "Man, this stuff works great!!" Yeah .. no.
The tapered end bolt holds the oil pump in place but not tight. You turn it in until it pushes the oil pump against the opposite wall then back off 1 or 2 flats and tighten the lock but. It needs to “float” a bit to center the distributor.
Years ago i had a 62 C10 with a 235,motor was bad when we got it,rebuilt it with a bunch of new parts,all was good ,so we thought?.Was driving one day and the oil pressure started going down and up a lot,being a dumb 16 year old i just kept going,motor was new, thought it was invincible. after about 10 minutes it started to knock and then a rod came off.It turned out the distributor clamp was semi tight,it let the distributor rise up enough it would run but not drive the oil pump,turns out thats why it was bad when we got the truck,we could not get that bolt to stay tight?I dont think this is your problem,just a story i thougt of when i read this. Harvey
I grew up in Downey and Pico Rivera, over near Paramount and Telegraph, and down off of Slauson. Moved out of SoCal in the early 80s. Later I drove truck and spent a fair amount of time down there. I remember the broiler before the damage and the rebuild. Wanted to go in there afterwards but have since moved to Indiana. The thing I miss most is the food and the car culture.
The only problem with oil pressure in a 235 I had turned out to be bad/worn cam bearings. Not the same symptoms you described tho. If too much oil flow is going to the rockers it can reduce flow and pressure to the bearings and to the gauge port. Pre ‘68 Dave on the Stovebolt Forums is a 235 guru. He can probably advise you.
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