Projects 59 Apache - Lifelong obsession

Sorry for the late reply FtW1955. The easiest place to measure from is the front of the cab mount. Mine is set at 29 1/2 inches from the front of the cab mount to the center of the shock hole. The 58/59 fender has a different shape than the 55-57 though so you might want to set yours up to an inch less than that. Best thing to do is hang a fender and visualize it with your intended final tire size before you permanently weld it in.

 

It's been a while since I've posted some progress. Here's what I've been up to.

I planned to clean up the firewall to remove as many holes as possible. As part of this I decided to remove the bolts that go through the firewall for the heater. I welded up a bracket that mounts off of two of the old bolt holes for the battery box ( now moved under the floor ), and a hood hinge bolt. I cut the head off a couple of bolts and threaded them into the old battery box holes to create a couple of studs.

 

Here's what it looks like mounted under the dash.

 

I ordered a bunch of the Welder Series hole plugs in various sizes, I then drilled all the holes to the nearest size using a step bit. Out of all of these holes, I am only keeping 3 of them.

 

All the holes welded up. The 3 remaining holes are for the heater and for the speedo cable to pass through the firewall.

 

When I welded up all the holes in the firewall, I also made a mounting plate for my new fuse block that I mounted high on the drivers side under the dash. I plug welded it using some existing holes in the firewall.

 

I'm using a 78 Chevy van column, it is column shift and fits in the stock column drop. I also like that it does not have a key so I can keep my key on the dash. I did find however that it was too long. I took 2 1/2 inches out of the shift colar and the outer housing then slid it up the steering shaft and welded it all back together. I will cut the shaft to length and file it to a DD shape when i order the u-joints.

 

Next, I cut out a piece of 12 gauge sheet metal for a floor plate. I used a aftermarket chrome column floor mount.

 

I dropped my engine and transmission in so I could start figuring out what I want to do for a transmission crossmember.

 

I put the core support and rad back in to check clearance with the fan. The fan lines up right in the center and I have 1 1/2 inches from the fan to the rad.

 

Amazing transformation so far, keep up the good work!

 

I'm been working on mocking up my transmission crossmember. I'm using a kit from Welder Series that will let me unbolt the middle so the transmission could be dropped out without pulling the engine. I plan to weld the outer tubes to the Angle Iron and weld or bolt the angle iron to the frame.

The thing that I need to figure out is my exhaust. I would like to maintain as much ground clearance as possible. If possible I would like to run the exhaust above the transmission crossmember. I am wondering if I could sneak a pipe between the master cylinder and the transmission if I put a heat shield on the master? Has anyone else done this?

 

looking good 59!!! keep pluggin, these big jobs seem like they take forever, but in the near future you will be crusin down the road, and ready for the next big thing! nice work.

 

Love the build so far! I am building a 59 as well. Mine is on an 87 C10 chassis though. I am also going with a 60's vibe.

 

Got the old leaf springs stripped off the frame and I'm excited to start mocking up the Welder Series 4 link. I started by getting the rear end centered and set the pinion angle. Then I tack welded it to the frame so it can't move. everything is just temporarily held in place with some huge hose style clamps. Started playing around with some cardboard to figure out my step notch. I carried it forward a bit to give me something to weld the upper airbag bracket to.

 

Still plugging along with my project. Got the notches mostly welded and all the brackets tacked onto the rear end

 

Small update:

I found a 2" Bosch electric temperature gauge that I could cut up and complete my gauge cluster to go along with my modified volt gauge ( to replace the amp meter ) and modified Oil pressure. Stock temperature gauge on the left, new temp gauge and volt meter on the right. I just need to paint the needle green to match the other gauges.

The completed gauges has almost a stock look but will give me more detailed information which is what I was going for.

 

I made a big step forward.. Finally got the notch and 4 link done during the holidays.

 

Awesome progress!

 

Looks good

 

I notched the cross member for driveshaft clearance. Used a piece of PVC to mock up the driveshaft.

 

Keep on Keeping on ! VERY nice work .I,m a hack but I,m getting better. Its nice to see another guy kicking ass ,,,,,as time permits

 

Thanks Greener200! Its been slow going but I'm finally starting to feel like I'm making progress.

 

I pulled my driver's door off to rebuild the hinges, then decided that now was as good a time as ever to replace the cab steps. Both steps have the typical rust under the center brace. My fix 15 years ago was to just fill the void with long strand fiberglass filler... I bought new replacement steps a couple of years ago and they were just sitting on a shelf in my garage, so I've been making good use of all the extra time at home while everything was shut down..

 

Got my door hung and aligned. I ended up replacing the lower hinge as it was too far gone to rebuild. Was able to re-use the original upper hinge. I also installed a new latch. I don't to have to lift the door and slam it any more to close it. The step is just tacked in for now. . I wanted to make sure everything fit with the door before I welded the step in solid.

I also needed something to fill the hole now that I have removed the gas tank from behind the seat. I plan to drive this as is for a while before paint so I needed something to fill the hole. I had a 64 Chevy truck horn button in my parts stash that fit perfect.

 

Drivers side step is fully welded in, working on the passenger side now. I did the steps a little different. Since the vertical portion of the step is still very solid I didn't want to remove it. Instead, I just cut out the horizontal portion on the step, then I welded a piece of 3/4 square tubing under the seam between the new and old metal. Then I will use 100s of tack welds to join the two panels together. I know I'm just creating more work for myself but I didn't want to cut more good metal than necessary.

 

Got my steering mocked up with a new jag joint, slip shaft and a 3/4 x 3/4 DD U-joint. It's like Chevy designed these front ends to go in these trucks it lines up so nice! I am sure feeling it in my arms after filing the steering column shaft down to DD.

 

I needed to get access to portion of the frame under the cab for a few projects:

- Drill holes to permanently mount the transmission crossmember
- I need to move the battery box down an inch or so to give more clearance to the cab floor
- I'm planning on painting this portion of the frame while the cab is out of the way

I previously build some 2 x 4 cribbing with straight non pivoting caster wheels when I sandblasted the frame a couple of years ago. To take the cab off I jack the truck up, place the cribbing under the steps then drop the frame out from under the cab. It makes it easy to roll the cab backwards and forwards by myself.

 

Making progress on a bunch of little stuff
- get the transmission crossmember bolted in - Done
- move the the battery box down - Done
- got the first coat of primer on the part of the frame that will be hidden under the cab..

 

Phenomenal work on your build! Many great ideas for various problems!
Albert