Hi all, I bought an engine from a friend. We both did not know how it looks inside. The engine came to germany and was before located in New York. It really looks bad inside. Pistons are stuck and rusty. Cylinder wall are gone. But the crank and rods on the otherside look good. Here is may question: How can I rescue the crank, when no piston is moving? The actual position of the rods do not allow to get the crankshaft out without getting some scratches on the crank surface. What should I do? How to bring the crank out without hurting it? Thanks for any help in advance. Michael P.S.: We found a solution for the price of the engine - cause we are friends Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
By the looks of it you may have to cut a couple rods. I have the same problem on 59a. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hey Keith, thank you - very sad - but think you are right. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are you sure the block can't be saved? That's a shame. Rods aren't expensive. Even 91A rods. Is it a Merc crank that's been offset ground? Cutting a rod might be required. But I'd sure rather cut a rod so I could attempt to get the pistons out without caving in a cylinder wall if there's a chance to save the block with a rebore. There's a lot more rods out there than good blocks. And much easier to ship a box of rods to Germany than a replacement block. I've never tried it, but I read about a way to unstick things that have rusted together. Soak them in water. Evidently it loosens the rust. Who'd a thought? If you can't/won't do that, maybe sandblast all the rust off the tops of the cylinders so you can pound the pistons upward without the crust in the way. Then you'd only have to break the rust on the rings.
Thanks for the recommendations. The block is trash. The cylinder walls are broken, cause of rust. You can see thru the next cylinder. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had a similar situation with a recent flathead purchase. It had the Mercury crank so I wanted to save it. I got all the rod caps off and was able to get a few of the pistons out then used a cloth wrapped pry bar to get the crank up and out. All though not as bad as yours you might give it a try...
Drill down through the top of the pistons all around near the edge of the bore ,then you can bust them out and not damage the rods. Lrk
Also need to drill through the sides where the ends of the pins are. Isn't there an acid rust remover that everyone warns about using because it also eats aluminum? Just dissolve the pistons. Turn the engine upside down and pour the acid into the underside of the piston. Do this outside over some gravel, obviously.
If in doubt,,,,check out the video series by Mart and his Crusty Flattie . I would never have thought that block could have been saved ! It is running strong today,,,he did a lot of work,,,,but proved it could be done . Tommy
I would use an extension drill, and start drilling around the outside diameter of the pistons. Drill, drill drill, lubricate, tap, tap, tap, and use a punch to break them apart.
Sorry for your situation.....went to look at a similar advertised engine with a nice intake and heads - pulling one of those Offy heads told the story - looked like yours......the seller also said it had a Mercury crank.....I passed...........
Hi from Down Under , Maybe you can perforate the outside of the block and the lower part of the offending cylinder with drill holes and bust out that part of the block . Carefull not to damage the rod bolt so a shaped steel 1/8 steel plate to protect them . Just a thought bubble coming out of my old brain . Or drop the whole short motor in a drum ( half a 44 gallon drum ) of citric acid after you clean the oil and grease off it . That stuff works good . Good luck , save as much as you can , Joe from OZ .
With block upside down maybe load the bores with molasses and wrap the block in plastic and let it sit for a week.
I bought a similar looking 59A block and it took a month of soaking and tapping, but I managed to get it apart . I used a mixture of atf and acetone. Even a propane torch to burn it which helped getting the next batch to flow inside of the cylinder's. I used the same method to save an original Z-28 DZ block that was left set out on a rug and covered by a piece off carpet. What a mess, but patience is your friend. I have placed a block in a 55 gallon drum and poured diesel fuel over it and capped it off. Let it set for months and then went work on it. A trick my dad showed me.
Can't really offer any advice that already isn't posted...Just wanted to say how cool this pic is! Keep the young one involved!!
Thanks Pete, this is my young son, Luis. He really is interested in the old flatheads and hot rods.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
For rust removal I have used cheap white vinegar. Had a pair of VERY crusty hood hinges, soaked them for a couple months in an unheated garage in the winter. They came real clean & usable. It would also eat the aluminum pistons.
I pulled apart an 8BA doing just this. Three pistons came out. Tried vinegar, WD40, lighting rags on top of the remainders. Gave up, and chain drilled round the top, and chiselled down the side of them. Once you hit the rings a sharp chisel with snap through them. They all came out without cutting rods or damaging the bores - well, anymore than the water damage that was alrerady there.
The Jalopy Journal
