Buddy of mine used rustoleum with catalyst hardener on his rod's control arms, supports, etc. It looks awesome. I thought it was powder coat until he told me. So...I'm wanting to try it also, but want a more satin finish. Anyone ever try a catalyst in FLAT rustoleum? Would it turn it glossy? If no one knows, then I'll let you know soon...lol
I used a sandable primer and rustolium paint on a dash. It looked like a powder coat. It looked great!
In the auto paint world theres a product called flattening compound.Added to gloss paint it dulls it.
I've used hardener with matte black tractor store paint, it did increase the gloss but only to approximately a semi-gloss level. So maybe flat will turn satin? Give it a try! I'd like to see your results!
Managing a body shop I've seen some of these concoctions end badly. I've had customer's come in who have brewed up paint only to have it start peeling within a couple months. Alot I've seen have large checks and cracks show up in a few months due to incompatible products so be sure to read instructions and check for compatibility.
I used both Valspar and Manic. Honestly I believe them to be the same. 8 oz per gallon. Acetone to thin to desired consistency. Holding up good So far! 2 plus years. Oil based paint is very forgiving compared to modern automotive paints. Not as shinny but I like my old cars to look like old cars
Can says 8oz to a gallon. Not sure if that means before or after cutting it with mineral spirits.... hmmm
Yes 8 oz per gallon or 2 oz per Quart. I've heard of people using a higher ratio of hardened but I have not tried that. I like using acetone to thin as it helps the paint dry faster... But that may not be what you want in Florida. LoL Also... I have used this hardener with Baer oil based semi gloss paint from home depot! They can mix Thousands of colors for 15 bucks a quart! Gives a nice satin sheen.
This is good to know because I got 2 qts of black and the same hardner from rural king to do my frame.
While I do not doubt you for a second. Heres the scoop on some of these lower end cheap alkyd based enamel scenarios. Now alkyd based enamel is not a whole lot different then old school straight synthetic enamels, Dulux for example Not wicked glossy and oxidizes pretty quick. Alkyd primers, enamels and such I have done the following. I have used plain hardware store rust primer cut with urethane grade reducer and sprayed on panels, frames and parts Once fully cured have topcoated the frame and parts stuff with rust enamel and hardener, 2k urethane paint and 2 k urethane primers. Not 1 had any issues to date, but this primer better be fully cured and it take like 2 to 3 weeks. No production shop has this kinda tyme. I have also used fillers, epoxy primer and even plain old lacquer spot putty no issues. I have not tried lacquer paint over enamel primers...lol Most of these so called rust paints and primers can be cut with acetone, xylene or urethane reducers, generic acrylic enamel hardeners mix in okay too. Not sure if Overspray is still with us but he has done a lot of this kinda thing too. Just in closing, not everyone wants or can afford the real " paintjob", the kind that costs more than a down payment on a house and keeps your anxiety levels up every time you go for a cruise...lol
And this is flat black rustoleum slightly thinned with mineral spirits, no hardener, applied with a brush!
I'll be spraying the backside of the inner fenders as a test. These will then be shot with undercoat.
I shot the whole frame,axles, backing plates etc with gloss black rustoleum on my 1960 f100 and had nothing but great results. Also with no hardener. You dont need it. Its durable paint and I will use it again.
Make it shin or go home LOL,ho no that's were we should be anyway LOL Really primer is always primer an not finished, no matter what BS name it is given. Finish it shiny,it last longer,looks better and cleans EZ.
I’ve also used Rustoleum a lot over the years with good results. My 55 frame was done in rustoleum 30+ years ago and still chugging along. I still want to try this because .... oh hell...why not? Lol
Rustoleum and industrial enamel is very foregiving paint. Once cured out is very durable. Mix ratio (industrial enamel hvlp): 6 paint 3 acetone 1/2 hardener for 6/3/.5 8/4/1 is also popular. Consider tip size, typical harbor freight purple gun is 1.4. Seen ratios as high as 4 paint 3 acetone. Do some spray out, the material is so cheap, I'd rather than waste it learning than worry about orange peel or a run. I generally use valspar hardener, any enamel hardener works. Most of the time I throw a dash of hardener in without measuring on small mixes. Suggest mixing flat and gloss rustoleum together to get the sheen you want. Its repeatable. Paint stores sell flattening agent, it costs more than rustoleum. Reducers: Acetone (fast) naptha (med) mineral spirits(very slow). Any real enamel reducer works as well. Ive used 20 year old enamel reducer, and hardener in valspar tractor enamel, worked fine. I prefer valspar tractor enamel over rustoleum, "seems" to be better quality, it does cover better.
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