Technical Distributor question

I lined up the damper with top dead center, put the distributor back in with rotor facing to number one spark plug, started her up, she didnt crank over, then I went back and opened up the distributor cap, Manually crank pulley to top dead center again and saw the rotor on distributor was facing the opposite of number one spark plug.

Does this mean I am 180 out? Or my pulley is slipping?

 

yes you're 180 out what engine are you working on

 

you didn't get any popping or back firing? the Q&D way to determine TDC is put your finger over the spark plug hole and when it is making compression ( top of stroke for ignition) it will push your finger off. Double check your wiring sequence with a shop manual and verify the direction of distributor rotation.

 

It’s a 272 v-8 y block


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It’s not backfiring anymore. I also double checked on the compression stroke and matched up the timing mark and lowered distributor in Queen to number one sport clips. I did all of that. Also I double checked on rotation of the rotor corresponding to firing order and that’s correct. But when I started it, and stopped it, and open distributor back up again it rotor was opposite


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The way I was taught to set the distributor was to take #1 plug out and with the key OFF place your thumb over the spark plug hole and crank the engine until the compression blows your finger off the head. Then turn the engine to line up the TDC mark on the balancer and then set your distributor.

 

That is exactly what I did. I didn’t use my thumb I used a balloon attached to a straw LOL


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I have a pack of balloons from the dime store in my shop. They come in handy for stuff like this and looking for leaks.

 

Sounds like you put the distributor in the correct way.

What you don't understand is that the crankshaft turns two times, for every time the distributor turns one time.

So when the crank is lined up TDC, the distributor could be firing the first cylinder in the firing order, or the fifth.

Don't take the distributor out again. Figure out what's wrong, that makes it not run, first!

 

But don’t I need to pull distributor out and spin it 180 to fix it?


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No, just turn the crankshaft one turn. The distributor will magically point at number one again!

 

You need to go through the whole checking for compression/spark/fuel thing. Something isn't working, and it's probably not the timing that's the problem this time.

 

check voltage at distibutor or coil and double check firing order.

 

Also remember when you put an distributor in the rotor will turn a little , due to angle cut gears. So to get right, you need to start a little ahead of where you want to be. Then just put gentle pressure on the housing and turn the engine over, to line up the oil pump drive shaft. Watch out for the rotor bug, it can grab your hand!








Bones

 

Purchase or borrow a remote start switch, 1 lead to pos. on batt. Other to the S side (left) of the starter solenoid. Leave the key in the off position and remove the pass. Side valve cover, bump starter and watch intake valve on #1 ( pass. Side) when it opens and is almost closed, stop and Check timing should be on or very close to tdc, this tdc on compression stroke where you want it too fire. If you have the plugs out this makes it easier to wrench it over using the balancer bolt to the mark, pull the dust. cap and check where it is pointing, your cap may have # 1 embossed on it, this is irrelevant but if it’s close loosen the hold down bolt and rotate dist. to the #1, if it’s not you could pull dist. and rotate till it’s close and then adjust to match #1 plug wire or if the wires are long enough you could shuffle them around (rotor needs to be pointing at #1 plug wire in cap) dist. needs to be fully seated on block. Check firing order ( rotor runs counter clockwise in a y block) if everything looks good loosely snug the hold down bolt, turn the key to on position and crank it over with the remote switch, it should start or try to start, adjust dist. Position forward or back until it does. If it will not start, something else is the problem and we’ll go from there

 

I like that idea, I used a compression tester yesterday to do the same thing. From the sound of things in your other thread, you might see if your valves are adjusted too tight, or you might have one or more that are leaking.

 

First check spark at plugs Then if you do not want to pull the distributor just swap the wires straight across

 

Here is an excellent overview of how TDC and cam rotation work: