Hot Rods Flex brake line from frame to rear axle

Hello all
I’m looking for ideal on how people ran their flex line down to the rear axle from the frame. I’m not happy with what I have created I feel there will be a lot of flex and pressure put on the -3an fitting going into the junction block on my frame and I’m worried it with break
What has everyone else done for this joint
Thanks for any info

 

Usually the junction block bolts to the frame and is female inverted flair in and out inline. You have created a bunch of potential leak points with all of those pipe thread adapters. They also lengthened the connection. There is nothing wrong with using a 90 degree block if it fits, but all of the extra connections you have is kind of creating the reason you asked the question. I can't tell by the photos, but is that a DOT approved flex line? I would just keep it simple and stay with all inverted flare connections.

 

I use OEM hose, it's designed to fit in a hole in a bracket and retained by a clip, it works fine on millions of cars.

 

How much are you planning for rear end movement? I like the factory black ones.... less to go wrong. I think they were Dormans..

 

‘69 Camaro rear brake hose. NAPA Part #: UP 36586

Inverted flare end to mount to the frame and take the tube nut. Other end has a mountable T fitting for the rear end, with inverted flare for more tube nuts.

Easily available, at any NAPA.



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They are DOT approved lines I had a local Hyd shop make up.
Plan B is going to route it a little differently see the pictures I can get full travel of the suspension with out any binding. Just using a old (65 mustang)brake line I have ordered a new one as this one is damaged but gives me a better ideal for placement
The Camaro line has the wrong size hole in it for my vent tube

 

I like plan B better........less places to leak and looks less cluttered.
6sally6

 

How I did my flex line. These pics don’t show the bracket I fabbed to mount the hard line to the rearend but you can see how I did the flex line. Lots of miles on the coupe and zero issues.



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Cycle suspension up and down to ensure that line does not bind anywhere or come into contact with any other components. That hose radius is within safe limits. The chassis coupling is safer than a cantilevered union.

 

Camaro lines are designed to bolt to the rear end cover bolt up around 11 o'clock, the OP has a ford style that bolts to the axle vent tube. Both will work but nor with his existing hard lines.

I just went trough this on my truck and went to Oil Filter Service in Portland, OR and got hooked up with a nice hose that attaches to my frame via a horseshoe clip like Squirrel recommended. The first one I purchased was made "just west of California" and leaked (poor threads in a cheap silver metal Y block with hose swedeged on). Now running an original late model brass V block with hose that threads into it. V style (late design) block with vent tube hole (71-74) the Y block was earlier (62-70). Ford t bird, torino, mustang, maverick, bronco, etc

 

Mine is closer to your plan B. OEM flex line like Squirrel suggested.

 

I like the Plan B location....but keep the Plan A braided hose....put a straight through adapter block on the frame in Plan B location

 

Like all the other have said, Go with "Plan B", get rid of the extra connections which you don't need. Also, put that junction directly over top of the Axle, NOT 8 inches in front of it (and NOT over the upper 4-link bar and NOT under the panhard bar) like you have in the picture. You are over-thinking this by routing that line where you have it in the pic on "Plan B".

Keep the flex line the same length. Just wrap it in kinda a loop then tighten it down. It'll hold the "loop" shape.

 

Thanks for the advice for everyone it’s sometimes amazing the simplest solution is the hardest to come up with
Used a 65 mustang brake line (easily available at my local Napa) that I flipped to angle the hose towards the frame
Made up a bracket to hold the end and attached it to the original hard line I had already made up. Gives me at least 1/2” clearance to the coil over at any point in travel

 

IF it looks like it might stretch it too far, you can always shorten the hardline and make the flex line go under the panhard bar.

Mine is a little different.

 

Now that looks a proper job Rob, not like the lash up before.

 

One thing to consider when doing something like this with hose...
A 180° loop is best. Any angle different from zero or 180 induces twist to the hose through suspension travel. When planning mounting locations, fasten one side, and hold with your hand the other end. If the hose tries twisting in your hand when moving the suspension, you are choosing a poor mounting position.

 

I used a 60's Fairlane on my car. the narrowed rear put the vent right under the frame rail.

 

Your 1st picture on post # 14 looks good. Do that, but move the tab down about an inch on the frame rail so the flex line wont hit the floorpan of the body when the suspension is compressed (possibly making a rub location on the flex line). Your picture has it about 1/4" from the top of the frame rail, put it about 1/4" from the bottom of the frame rail.

BTW, Are you getting tired of taking those shocks on and off? I see three different configurations of it just in the pictures on post #14 alone (1 fully assembled, 2 shock with spring cups, 3 shock w/o spring cups).